Ditto! I'll add you to my friends list on Car Domain, and if you have AIM IM me on MxRacer476. Maybe we can shine in on one another, if we need to talk about it lol

 

I already added you to my friends list aswell.

AIM?? Sorry, I'm computer illiterate. I have NO clue what that means

You can just email me any time if you want to discuss our set-ups further.

NINETYTHREEFORMULA@YAHOO.COM

Later.

 

I went with the 383 because it is a more proven combo, it requires minimal clearing (none on the rod's and I used H-beams), you can use the stock oil pan, and I could give a flying $%$&*% about the cool factor as long as it hauls *** .

 

Thanks again guys! BTW, AIM is AOL Instant Messenger.

 

Just FYI, ejfagala, I was reading your sig and you put that you had stainless LT's twice. Guess you like your headders

 

Dohhhhhhhhhhh,
Cut and paste, its a love hate thing, thanks for the heads up, BTW for $750 I should list them twice I feel like I payed for them twice

 

and an aftermarket oil pan is a MUST with the 396. the oil pan set me way over budget since I already stretched it as much as I could. the extra machining to the oil pan rails I wasnt afraid of, its more that doin that extra machining means its that much eaiser to strike coolant while clearancing. I did all my own clearancing, and didnt want to have to do the block filler thing either cause mine will be mostly street driven. that was the nail in the coffin for the 396 kit for me. as for the kit, its the pistons that cost more.
chris

 

THe longevity of any motor is a matter of tolerances <sp>.. I have seen guy's spend ton's of $$$ on the best bottom end part's only to have joe schmo put it together and the thing don't last but 10K miles.. THen you have the guy just buy's good stuff and has a builder that take's his time and does things right and that motor can last 100K miles.. Fwiw i went w/ a 396. and i am strapping a 91mm Turbo to the side of it and by god hope it stay's together.. Granted i'm way past that h/c mild stroker upgrade stage.. but i think a 396 is a great combo and you still have room to rebuild if say a ringland goes bad as your only going .030 on the overbore which is no more than a basic 355 rebuild.... I have heard of some using a stock pan w/ a 3.875 stroke crank.. Take's a lil massaging w/ a mallet but is doable.. but i feel if your going to go that far.. might as well go w/ a aftermarket pan such as Canton, Stef's, etc i paid a tad over 400 for mine.. and.. they look so damned good too.. sad their out of plain sight..

 

I ordered the canton pan yesterday. Part # 15-246T I think. Should arrive Monday. From the pics I've seen of it, yeah it looks awesom. Can't wait...

 

I can't believe so many people are saying to go with the 396 here. I remember when EVERYONE use to bad mouth that combo. I am about to go with a 383 for the most part because it is a proven combo. I can also spend the extra cash that would be required by the additional clearancing costs of the 396, on much better bottom end parts for the 383.

To each their own, and at the end of the day :givesaf: because they are both stroked bad *** LT1 motors.

 

Holy smokes, your making it sound like the difference in cost for machine work between a 383 and 396 is like, THOUSAND'S of dollars or something

How much of a difference can it possibly be? Surely not that much. After all, any stroker motor is going to be a pretty serious project already, and will no doubt cost many thousands of dollars to complete. Is the bit more money for clearancing the block for the 396 crank really gonna be that big of a deal compared to the overall cost of the build-up? I doubt it very much. The additional cost is negligable.

In the end though, either way you go - 383/396 LT1 you're still gonna have a bad-*** car

 

By the way, I'm going to get the machine work done to my block in early January when my holidays are over. Does anyone know (roughly) how much machine work goes for these days for an 396 LT1 ??

Anybody with a 383 could chime in here aswell. I'm curious as to see just how much difference in $$ there really is between the 383 and 396.

Thanks.

 

Well, the additional clearancing is what maybe 200 bucks. You really should run a aftermarket pan with a 396 so there is another 400 bucks. What about the additional cost of pistons for the 3.875 crank, apparently most of the pistons for that crank size are not off the shelf pistons (just going from what I heard), so there could even be additional costs for the "custom" pistons.

600 bucks to me is the difference to me that looks appealing. Hell I can step up from a Eagle forged 3.75 crank (~500) to a Callies Dragonslayer (~729). There is 200 dollars of the 600 spent. Then I could go with a little bit better rods with another 200 bucks.
Then I could take out a couple of friends to a local nude female establishment and party the additional 200 away

Like has been stated before both are going to be bad ***. LTx motors > *

 

Well, I got qouted here in the Dallas area from a VERY reputable engine builder a bad *** price. he said that he could do all the machine work on my stock block, get all of my motor parts (fully forged Eagle crank/rods and JE forged pistons, along with top of the line bearings and seals), fully assemble the motor from the oil pan to the heads being bolted on for right at 2750 out the door.
You figure fully forged rotating assemble is about 1600-1700 and then add in the cost of bearings, seals, rings and gaskets, that doesn't seem like to bad a price.
I would also LOVE to here some prices on 383/396 machine work

 

Just as I had suspected. I'm not rich by any stretch of the imagination, but personally, I feel that with all the money I've spent already on the stroker assembly, and the money I still have to spend on AFR heads/intake/Carb/cam and a bunch of other things I'm sure I've forgotten, an extra $200 for clearencing is nothing. Really, it isn't.

If your going to build up a motor, you may aswell do it right the first time. An aftermarket pan should definetely be on your list of things to upgrade anyways. Aftermarket oil pans like the Canton I ordered (aside from looking awesome and providing more clearance) offer an additional quart of oil, which in my book, is an added safety measure. Yeah, it costs a bit of money ($390 CAD) but well worth it- 383 or 396.


As far as getting "custom" pistons, I don't really know what theat means since I ordered my 396 as a "kit". Everythings already included (FORGED PISTONS/FORGED CRANK/H-BEAM RODS) and the cost was EXACTLY the same as the 383 kits.

But I guess you've got a point, if your buying all the pieces seperately, you might have to spend more if it's going in a 396.

However, like I said, if youring buying a kit (like 99% of everybody else does) the cost is EXACTLY the same between a 383 and 396. -most of the time anyways