What kind of internals should i get
I have a stock bottom end getting ready to die
I have stage 2 heads cam and a great top end
but I am looking for a strong bottom end
all hjelp is appreciated but I am on a budget too
and i am not sure how much work the block will need

 

Your stock crank will be Ok IF it isn't damaged. get a set of Chevy PINK rods with ARP bolts and resize rods and a set of forged pistons.Have block checked to see if it needs boring and get pistons and rings to fit.Have shop clean the block and install cam brgs and ALL plugs after clean.
Use a GOOD set of file to fit rings and Clevitt H series brgs for all brgs.Put solvent in the head ports to see if any valves are leaking.If they are get the heads reworked. If not put on new seals,clean and reinstall.
New timing chain and oil pump and middle drive shaft with steel end and ya are ready to reassemble after cleaning and a bunch of inspection.

Sounds simple, huh-- it ain't so simple.Miss one loose brg on a lifter and ya may be doing it again real soon.Forget to torque 1 critical bolt and the same applies.

 

Thats why i bought my shortblock and had the heads done by lloyed. Much eaiser for someone on a time frame and limited knowledge. Just dont get in a hurry and make sure you tq in the correct sequence. Good luck

 

stock crank turned or new cast steel they are not much more exspencive than having the stock one turned use the scat 4130 forged I beams they are $219 new and it's over $100 to have the stock one's resized and arp's put in them. the GM pink rod is a stock one that passed extra inspections and had stronger bolts put in them from factory. they are made out of the same crapy forged steel... the pistons you realy don't have a cheap way out to be good here look at the new ring and piston sets from power forged I recomend Pro true for someone on a budget. then a good cam lifters and valve train parts. A good shop will be able to get all of this and assemble it for you.

 

I built a 355 LT1. home ported heads, 306 cam 1.6 roller rockers. 100 dome pistons TRW. stock rods ARP rod bolts. and stock crack. With all the basic bolt ons the car went 11.5s
This engine I sold and installed in a freinds car. He has shorty headers. Had is dynoed today and got
N/A
376 rwhp
354 tq

http://www.scfyb.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13088

 

Ya don't seem to know much about the PINK rod.
Might want to check your source of info.
In my day that was all there was and have run the up to 3 seasons in a dirt track sprint car 5 nights a week turning un godly RPM's .They are a lot better quality than"stock" and right next to a 4130 I beam and plenty strong enough to make 500+FWHP.

 

I would call Probe and get a set of rods and pistons from them.. For the price, its AWESOME stuff.. I understand that you are on a budget and all, but dont skimp on anything if you can avoid it by saving your money for one month longer...

My new motor is a 355 that should be pumping out 450ish hp to the wheels, and I am using a 4340 forged and nitrided SCAT Crank, Forged Probe I beams, and Probe pistons. Everything will be internally balanced and with the cost of my heads and cam and all the extras like long tubes and electric wp and so on, I should be in the hole for about $5k. Keep in mind that I only spend $1300 on the bottom end, and then the machine shop is charging me $1k for splaying the block, Hastings plasma moly rings, H-bearings, align honing, torque plate boring/honing, and internal balancing of the whole assembly.

Do it right the first time, I learned the hard way.. Im doing it right the second time.

 

http://chevyhiperformance.com/techar...38/index1.html

and it's in this book that I own

http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=54220

just because it works doesn't meen that it's a good idea. they are not anywhere near the quality of a 4130 here is a general order

stock 1038 forged steel
stock checked cleaned and good bolts same strength or stronger than the "pink rods"
5140 forged steel like the eagle sir's
4130 forged steel like the scats
4340 forged steel

I think you may have just learned wrong a long time ago and never been corrected. I usualy PM someone when they make a mistake instead of calling them in public because I don't like to be called on stuff like that. sorry if I'm being an a$$ I don't mean to cause any hard fealings.

sorry for the thread hi-jacking hopefully this will be taken up in a different manner from this point on.

 

Well I ain' saying anything that isn't true.They are plenty good enough for a budget build of 500 HP or so.
I may have learned it a long time ago but at least I learned and didn't get it from a book.
If you want to use 4130 and maybe exceed this guys budget,don't care.
I am just trying to give the guys that don't know some more choices.I have used STOCK rods on 400HP and they live and a couple are still living. So the General didn't build bad stuff.
These rods came in the 365 and 375HP 327CID and a few others and the 375 was conservitave.
Do the same work to a PINK rod that ya are doing to that STOCK rod and see what ya have.Let me say this--I never had one fail and have my own engine shop and have used them a bunch (becoming hard to find) and I would use them over 5140 anyday.

If ya want to say I'm calling ya out--So be it-- but I would first learn what I was talking about and don't concider somebody's article as gospel.

 

Pink rods had there time and they are getting harder to find, but still an excellent rod. The trick is now, you can buy a set of Eagle rods for about $200 and not have to do anything to them. By the time you buy the pink rods and then have them resized you are in for around $200.

If the guy wants a strong bottom end, we need to know how much power he wants it to make. A strong bottom end is only relative to the amount of HP he wants to create, which is relative to your budget. The ole X rods are still a dime a dozen and they'll handle some good power, just depends on how much you want.

 

Probably shooting for around 400 at the wheel but I have hopes of a supercharger around xmas time i made about 350 at the wheel lasy ttime dynoed but that was only at 4000rpms go and higher and it feels like it want to throw a rod

 

When I saw budget and N/A I went for the most for the least.A set of Scat or Eagle forged will do the job.
Got a 356 Ford with a vortec on stock crank and rods running 7.30 in the 1/8 in a 4600# truck.It was built in 2001 and is a dailey driver on pump gas and tows a 26' race boat everywhere.So stock ain't all bad.It has 517RWHP.

 

Well-
I went with a set of Crower Forged Rods and TRW Forged Pistons with a turned Stock Crank(still had lots of life in her) All new Clevite Bearings and all the straightening of the block.
Aparently My vibration issues if you look at some of my other posts came 2-fold
1. INCORRECT SPRING SEATS were aparently causing lifter collapse, BUT only at high RPM(yeah right 4800RPM) nevertheless
2. Exact words form the machinist is that the rings fell off when the pistons were taken out (YAY) Along with that the Bearing were very shot and the balance was WAY OFF.

 

OH YEAH
GOING with a new VALVETRAIN SYSTEM and a REAL Cam this time

Comp Custom Grind

228/238-------
.565 .575 with 1.6RR

MOLY pushrods
Beehive LS1 Springs
COMP lifters
Guides
7/16 Studs
CLOYES DOUBLE ROLLER

Hope I have a beast this time

 

looking for a blown 355 or going 383????

if so i've got a set of forged aluminum pistons for sale....check my sig for details...great pistons.