I have a few questions about tuning for this set-up. I have been told not to drive this without a dyno tune. Can I get a mail order tune to start out with (such as one from MadWolf, pcmforless, etc...) until i have a little time to get a dyno tune? I know quite a bit about the lt-1 cars but this tuning stuff is kind of new to me, so you will have to bare with me on some of my questions.

Any Info is helpful

Brandon

 

I've had Ion from madz28 (madwolf) tune my car with a cam similar to that one, and it was pretty much dead on. Had zero issues with drivability

 

I have been trying to tell everybody on this board-ya got to have enough spring- 90% of problems on a cam install is spring related.Your springs will be fine.Shoot for .100 on the ex and .080 on the in at least on the PTV clearance.You will probably have to shift at 68-7000 which is not a problem if it is properly balanced.A mail order tune will get you in the ball park but a dyno tune will wring the last ounce out of it,if you lean on it.Should be OK to drive with a mail tune just not 100%

 

The original lift I was running on this set up was .594/.612. I had a ton of piston to valve clearance, especially since I'm running 1.94/150 valves. The stock valve size gives me plenty of radial clearance. One thing to remember is that gross valve lift is NOT the primary concern in PV clearance. Seat timing in conjunction with lift figures off the seat are the concerns.
I can take a cam with .700 lift and seat timing that's not too aggresive and haves miles of room. On the other end I can take a cam with .480 and get aggressive with the seat timing (like the Stockers) and have the piston to valve be a hair from kissing.
On the stock LT1 pistons the reliefs are deep and radial clearance is fairly safe even with 2.00" intake valves.
Steve...

 

Steve,

Thanks for all the helpful information so far. Did you have any vacuum problems? If you want to PM me your number so i can ask you some tech questions, that would be great, if not thanks anyway for all the info.

 

It has been awhile since i last posted this but i was wondering what you mean by properly balanced. I am running a stock bottom. Do i still need to take out my rotating assembly and rebalance everything???? Are you talking about weighing the pistions and all that?

On another note, would one of those ATI Super Dampers do anything for my engine since i will be turning it to a pretty high RPM range for stock bottom.

 

Anyone????

 

If you have the cash laying around to spend on the machine work... go for it. IMO save that cash for when you do a rebuild. Can you spin a stock rotating assembly to the moon??? Yes. How many times can you do it? Honestly it's the luck of the draw on a factory assembly. My assembly has never been balanced or touched other than an upgrade of the oil pump. I've bounced mine off the rev limiter @ 7k NUMEROUS times and my shift points are at 6800 the assembly took it just fine. Hell i even took the timing too far and detonated the motor well over 6k and the bottomend was fine... head gasket gave out thank goodness. Granted this is an extreme example (as far as N/A goes) of what not to do to a stock bottomend, but you get the idea.
If your going to put money into the stock bottomend at all put it in a new oil pump and a good set of rod bolts.
Steve...

 

Steve. I have a few more questions for you or anyone else who wants to answer.

What do i need to do to the TCM/PCM to run a stall in the 3800-4000 range. Can i just get Brian or Ion to program it for me when i do the mail order tune?

Is there anything better than the K&N FIPK out there (besides ram air) to help me get air to the heads?

I have noticed little bugs and particles in some MAFs when taking them out of lt1 engines, will descreening the MAF have a negaitve particles reaching the intake? I dont see how they could get by the filterand get caught in the MAF screen, but i have seen this before.

In order to turn my engine 6800+ RPM's what exactly should i have done/check for to ensure i wont blow the bottom(or anythine else) the first few times i turn on it this high? Also, i was wondering how high i would have to turn this cam to make max performance. It seems to me that this cam will make power all the way up in the 7500 RPM range (even though i would never turn the bottom this high). Am i mistaken here . Let me know if i am.

Also i was wondering what degree i should set the cam at when installing it? I want max performance but still able to be a daily driver.

Can Comp R's hold tripple springs at ramp rates this high?

Also i have decided to go with the monoblade, and vortec polished elbow.

Anyone who wants to chime in is more than welcome.

Brandon

 

Big stall = OBD2 computer for the most part. I'm sure most of the tuning guys out there can set you up computerwise for the higher stall.
As for bugs in the MAF... sounds like folks were running without the filter at some point OR they had a poor fit at the base of the filter allowing air/debris to by pass it. I've been running descreened for years now... no problems.
As for the highest RPM on the stock short block... like I said before it honestly is the luck of the draw (without pulling it & putting a mic to it) on a factory assembly.
With the cam you're talking about on a 111 LSA I'm confident you'll be hitting peak power before 6,600 RPM. To be pulling past 7K (especially to 7,500) you'd need more cam on at least a 108 to 106 LSA. Anyway the LT1 computers crap out at 7K with a few Vette computers able to handle 7,200.
As for the Comp R's... my setup is running on aveage 415 lbs open pressure and doing well. I'd suggst running your springs on a tester to see what pressures they'll be generating at various install heights. Then check with Comp to see the limits of the R's.
Steve... gone fishin!