Alright, So thanks to a bunch of you guys I finally have my car running right. My EGR problem was the pipe between the exhaust and intake manifold, FYI, and thanks Injuneer. Now my next goal is to start dragging the car. I haven't had a chance to run it since I bought it, but I know 3 years ago it ran in the 13's I believe (for whatever that means now). My best friend has a mustang that runs around a 12.1, and my goal is to beat him. I would love to have my car run in the high 11's. It is stock except for K&N CAI and magnaflow catback. My first step is headers, possibly pacesetter's but I haven't decided yet. Just curious what do you think would be my cheapest route to having a car that runs in the 11's, and still pass emissions in Middle Tennessee? Is it possible?

 

A tune will help you optimize your car, but wait until you get the other parts on there first. LT headers are a good start, but they aren't going to do tons. You might consider ported heads. A cam, 1.6 roller rockers and ported heads will give you considerable power, but a tune will be good for optimizing that. Beyond that, cheap is not usually the ideal way to go. A lot of people put spray in their cars for "cheap." That usually doesn't go over well. However, you might consider a good wet spray kit to help boost your power. Overall, a setup like this is going to be $1600+ easy, but don't go cheap. Trust me.

 

Here is my recipe which got my car into the 11's. It's only an 11.96 but it's bragging rights.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/alb...pictureid=2710
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=710144

 

It's kinda hard to see the mod list..Do you have a bigger pic of it?

 

I just saved it and zoomed in on it and you can see it pretty well Jlo.....Thanks to both of you.....I feel like that pretty reasonable....I have about 2300 in the car as it sits right now so that would put me at 3900(just using the number from fastandblue).....I still want the car to be drivable and to pass emissions is my only question about your set up....Say I leave my AC and all the the weight removers off. Do I still have a low 12's car? Also with the cam you run is it pretty street-able or would I need a stall? Should I get another car if this is my plan or am I ok with what I have?

 

Yes, it would be very streetable with a cam, ported heads and RR. Those along are going to cost you over $1500 though. A spray kit is going to run you about another $600 and may need some additional work. I would go with the first three first and a good tune. Will it push you to 11s? Totally depends on the tune/cam, etc etc. My bet is you are currently running in the high 13s. I kinda of doubt you'll drop that much. Good luck!

 

A cam, associated hardware and ported heads are going to cost WAY over 1500!
There's more to getting into the 11's than just power. I'd think you should figure on a suspension upgrade costing a good 750 to 1000 and then az couple of grand to upgrade the engine to an adequate power level.

 

It doesn't have to cost as much as you think if you're mechanically inclined and shop around for good deals or used parts. Most of the stuff I put into my car is used. It takes time and patience. In my opinion a good quality converter is a must for a bigger cam. Another thing I do all my own work including transmission, tuning, and gears.

 

Your right it is more than just added power but the only things done to my suspension is lower control arms, a poly TA bushing, and home made welded sub frame connectors.

 

That's a great start. Good LCA's run a solid $350 now, a good panhard bar another 150...it adds up fast. I think my 750 to 1000 is a pretty fair estimate using new parts and assuming he bolts them on himself. Let's not forget decent tires.....

On your last post you mentioned using used parts and doing the work yourself. I took the same approach where it made sense and save a bucket of money...I was just warning the guy that the post saying it'll be cheap and streetable isn't quite in keeping with reality....just my opinion of course.

To the OP, I think you need a minimum of 400 rear wheel horsepower to break into the 11's with a 3650 pound car...more like 420 to be solidly through the door. With an automatic, that puts you in the region of 470+ flywheel horsepower. Talk to the head and cam guys to see what that means from....then search for used parts if you want to go that route....

Good luck!

 

I agree, half of the stuff I bought for my car was from right here on the web-site..The 355 engine and LT4 heads I got from here as well as inj, RR mostly everything except for the Gaskets..

 

Agreed. That's why I only said $1500+. :P Depends on what you get, where you get it, who you have do it (DIY?), etc. Yeah, suspension is going to cost a bit, too, but in the end, it will help with your time slips. Power is great when it's on your side, but you need to know how to use it.

 

The most expensive upgrade was the converter (new), the biggest gain (ET wise)upgrade like bw_hunter said, tires.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.....I am pretty new to the performance game, well I have had a v-8 s10 i built and my truck now has a pretty peppy motor in it (87 GMC R1500 355 268 comp cam plus a lot more, and still run fuel injection thanks to hypertech. It runs in the low 10's in an 1/8 on a warm day which isn't fast, but for a heavy truck I feel like its pretty good).....My uncle owns a machine shop, and lets me work in it when I need some things made.....I would say I am not the best at it, but I have time and some free materials, plus it doesn't hurt that my dad is very mechanically inclined....I could probably make a lot of stuff like the SFC and things....The suspension parts I am scared to even begin to make....So say I find used parts, which I assume I can if I'm patient, could I do the build for say around 2k or a little over?.....And as far as street-able, this is a must right now so with an 11's car is it a trailer queen or can I drive it 3 hours race it and then drive it home?

 

Lot's of people have 11 second daily drivers.