I almost wasted a bunch of money on power upgrades that I thought would work, but was advised against by the more experienced within this Forum.

Anyway, what would be the recommended upgrades to my 00 Z28 to get the best power increase for under $1,000?

I don't want to go N2O.....

 

Any mods at all now? I'm currious what the money wasting ones were. (Mass air sensor, hypertech?) I think the general opionion here is to start with cold air intake, exhaust, and headers. You could probably do that for around $1000 if you don't mind used parts and do the work yourself. Thast probably good for a realistic 30hp. If you've got that already, I say cam it. Again, about $1000.

 

Torque converter, and tires. Best bang for buck for drag racing hands down.

 

I've been a big LS1 follower for the last four years (had two already) and without a doubt, an intake lid, cat-back/cutout or X-pipe true duals, Mac midlenth or good longtube headers (cats or offroad pipes) are great dyno/track proven bolt-on mods that add good solid horsepower. A simple air/fuel ratio rune wouldn't hurt either after the headers are put in. After that, go with the best cam or heads/cam package that fits your budget or goals (reliability, street, strip, both, etc.). Full bolt-on LS1's can easily get in the 340 to as much as 350 rear wheel horsepower range with what I mentioned above (I know, because mine already does ). An LS6 intake, ASP Pulley, & ported throttle body definitely wouldn't hurt either. Cam only LS1's with all the bolt-ons can be anywhere in the range from 375 to as much as 400+ to the rear wheels depending upon the grind or your set-up. And H/C with everything else can net you anywhere from as mild as 400 all the way up to 450 on a stock 346 block with whichever combo you decide is best for your car. Custom dyno tuning would also be VERY beneficial once you dig into the motor. Also, as already mentioned in this thread...A better stall converter (3000+) with some good DR's is a MUST for an A4, especially one that is used at the dragstrip. I love the 4.10's in the M6 around town or at the track.

Mods I wouldn't really waste much time with are Mass Air Flow sensors, roller rockers (for the LS1 I mean), shorty headers, small stalls (less than 2800), bellows, certain clutch brands (for the M6), etc. just to name some...Sorry, it's late and I'm having trouble thinking right now...

BTW, you should have a moderator move this into the LS1 section...

Good luck,

Mike

 

Sorry, just noticed you wanted suggestions for under a grand...Well then go with the proven bolt-ons first like I mentioned above or some of those and a good converter if you're an A4 or 4.10's if an M6 (either way, Nitto DR's would help a lot). Just watch that rearend if you're an M6...

But when you can afford more than that, keep in mind the things I mentioned depending upon what your overall power, drivability, reliability, street/strip goals are...

 

with the mods in my sig i just dynoed 321hp and 335tq. all the mods cost me right at $1000 and the duals sound good. should have a video of the car on the dyno soon.

 

SSRA - $200
Lid - $100
Flowtech LTs w/ orp - $600
cutout and some 3" pipe to run from the ORP to the cutout - $100 (installed)

after that, if its an auto....gears and converter

M6....good shifter, tune and LS6 intake

 

I appreciate all of the substantive replies. The car doesn't a see drag strip much as my focus is mostly road racing (I race Formula Fords with the N/E Region SCCA) So most of my use of the car is just fun/hard driving on the road when I I'm in between SCCA races and need a fix.

The car is bone stock with the exception of Powerslot Rotors and Hawke Brakes. Which by the way, has actually made the brakes useful compared to the pathetic factory set-up. It doesn't stop like my FF, but atleast I'm not replacing Warped/Cracked Broken Rotors every 1200 Miles.

I originally bought the car for work, but have since been given a company car so it's now my recreational vehicle, but unfortunately for it's current use, an Automatic.

I'm wondering if a Torque Converter with a higher stall will give me the kick I need from Apex to Exit that the LS1 with an automatic seems to lack (I used to have a '94 LT1 that seemed to have much more torque).