Flowtech headers & ory-pipe installed
Flowtech headers & ory-pipe installed
It took hella long to install (9-10 hrs), but it was well worth the time. No rubbing on the k-member, no vibrating, no banging, nothing. However, we did pry out the support brace over the I pipe and pushed that thingy up over the driver's side y-pipe collector. Headers, y-pipe, egr/air tube was a tight, but perfect fit. I used the gaskets that came with the headers and y-pipe and so far, no leaks *fingers crossed*. The sound with the hooker catback is mean as a mf. My overall grade on EVERYTHING is an A. My opinion, best bang for the buck.
I've read that some of the members having to remove the steering column/shaft, motor mount, alternator, starter, plugs and wires in order for the headers to get up in there. We only had to remove the steering column/shaft and plug wires. If the car is jacked up high enough, the only two above will only need to be removed. The inlet of the Y-pipe going into the I-pipe is 2.5-2.75" The Y-pipe had to get banged in the I-pipe with a hammer/mallet. DON'T hammer it all of the way to where it meets the remaining Y-Pipe-3". It'll be off and won't line up. Just another helpful note.
i didnt' have to remove anything...well the plugs and wires since i was replacing them anyway.
i only had to cut a small piece of block casting to allow the headers to slip in. not even sure that was 100% needed, just made it easier.
i did the whole install on my back, by myself in 10hrs, including plugs and wires.
and my Ypipe bolted up without ANY pounding or banging...perfect fit
i only had to cut a small piece of block casting to allow the headers to slip in. not even sure that was 100% needed, just made it easier.
i did the whole install on my back, by myself in 10hrs, including plugs and wires.
and my Ypipe bolted up without ANY pounding or banging...perfect fit
Originally posted by Dark Angel
2001 Z28, Black, leather and T-tops.
A few appearance and suspension mods.
371 RWHP
360 RWTQ
2001 Z28, Black, leather and T-tops.
A few appearance and suspension mods.
371 RWHP
360 RWTQ
Also, shortdog273, any dyno or 1/4 mile runs with them?
Yea, I'm wondering what mods he got to get 371 rwhp also.
Pewter Z, I got my car dynoed this past Monday. With lid and full exhaust, it dynoed at 314 rwhp, 326 tq in 90 degree weather. I guess that's not too bad. We all know it would've got an extra 10 hp it was alot cooler outside.
Pewter Z, I got my car dynoed this past Monday. With lid and full exhaust, it dynoed at 314 rwhp, 326 tq in 90 degree weather. I guess that's not too bad. We all know it would've got an extra 10 hp it was alot cooler outside.
Originally posted by shortdog273
Pewter Z, I got my car dynoed this past Monday. With lid and full exhaust, it dynoed at 314 rwhp, 326 tq in 90 degree weather.
Pewter Z, I got my car dynoed this past Monday. With lid and full exhaust, it dynoed at 314 rwhp, 326 tq in 90 degree weather.
If you don't mind, PM me where you got the Headers/Y-Pipe, unless of course if your retailer is a sponser of this site ....
I haven't had my car tuned yet, but I did get the air/fuel readout along with the dyno sheet and it was dead on (not too rich or lean). With tuning and cooler weather, my car would've dynoed higher. I got my headers and orp (both flowtech) from ls1speed.com (speed inc).
Just got my Flowtechs today, the y-pipe is on backorder. Did anyone have any problems or issues with the flanges that bolt to the heads? My drivers header, the flange is bowed and the outside 2 ports where the pipes go through the flange are gound at an angle. I can't see how this would seal. Anyone else notice this?
What did I do to get 371 RWHP? FTRA, K&N, MTI Lid, Descreened maf, Dynomouth exhaust and the biggy, TR230 cam with hardened pushrods, 918 springs and titanium retainers. Peak power was at about 6100, but it also flattened off there all the way to 6800. Hopefully with a little better breathing on the exhaust side it will give me a few more ponies.
What did I do to get 371 RWHP? FTRA, K&N, MTI Lid, Descreened maf, Dynomouth exhaust and the biggy, TR230 cam with hardened pushrods, 918 springs and titanium retainers. Peak power was at about 6100, but it also flattened off there all the way to 6800. Hopefully with a little better breathing on the exhaust side it will give me a few more ponies.
Originally posted by Dark Angel
What did I do to get 371 RWHP? FTRA, K&N, MTI Lid, Descreened maf, Dynomouth exhaust and the biggy, TR230 cam with hardened pushrods, 918 springs and titanium retainers. Peak power was at about 6100, but it also flattened off there all the way to 6800. Hopefully with a little better breathing on the exhaust side it will give me a few more ponies.
What did I do to get 371 RWHP? FTRA, K&N, MTI Lid, Descreened maf, Dynomouth exhaust and the biggy, TR230 cam with hardened pushrods, 918 springs and titanium retainers. Peak power was at about 6100, but it also flattened off there all the way to 6800. Hopefully with a little better breathing on the exhaust side it will give me a few more ponies.
Ah, makes a lot more sense. You should change your sig to read 'A few appearance and suspension mods and a lot of performance mods. So guys like me who don't have huge stuff (cam alone) in their sig won't feel so silly
Please post your experiences with these headers to if ya don't mind. They are the right price and as long as I could put them in myself without having to bend the car, skin my entire hand or mame (sp?) myself, they would be the next mod : pray :
OK, sig changed.
Other than the driver side flange being messed up, I don't see too many problems. They are basically the same as the hookers, just crappier. I did a set of those 2 weeks ago and we had to cut that piece of casting off the block (It had to be done) and remove a piece above the oil filter. Other than that the went in without a hitch. We'll see how the y-pipe compare to the hooker though, since the hooker one came in 3 pieces and went in very easy since it was all slip fit.
Other than the driver side flange being messed up, I don't see too many problems. They are basically the same as the hookers, just crappier. I did a set of those 2 weeks ago and we had to cut that piece of casting off the block (It had to be done) and remove a piece above the oil filter. Other than that the went in without a hitch. We'll see how the y-pipe compare to the hooker though, since the hooker one came in 3 pieces and went in very easy since it was all slip fit.
Originally posted by shortdog273
I've read that some of the members having to remove the steering column/shaft, motor mount, alternator, starter, plugs and wires in order for the headers to get up in there. We only had to remove the steering column/shaft and plug wires. If the car is jacked up high enough, the only two above will only need to be removed. The inlet of the Y-pipe going into the I-pipe is 2.5-2.75" The Y-pipe had to get banged in the I-pipe with a hammer/mallet. DON'T hammer it all of the way to where it meets the remaining Y-Pipe-3". It'll be off and won't line up. Just another helpful note.
I've read that some of the members having to remove the steering column/shaft, motor mount, alternator, starter, plugs and wires in order for the headers to get up in there. We only had to remove the steering column/shaft and plug wires. If the car is jacked up high enough, the only two above will only need to be removed. The inlet of the Y-pipe going into the I-pipe is 2.5-2.75" The Y-pipe had to get banged in the I-pipe with a hammer/mallet. DON'T hammer it all of the way to where it meets the remaining Y-Pipe-3". It'll be off and won't line up. Just another helpful note.


