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Engine Sensor Fuse Keeps Blowing
So here in Illinois a few weeks ago, there was a ton of rain. I was driving in it, hit a huge lake of water, and killed my passenger O2 sensor. The engine sensor fuse blew out about 2 days later. I replaced the fuse but it kept blowing. Yesterday I replace the O2 sensor and the fuse, drove to work (30 miles) today just fine, but then when leaving the fuse was blown again. Any ideas what the heck keeps blowing this fuse? As usual, when the fuse goes out, the SES light comes on and throws the reverse solenoid code and the MAF code. Anyway, any help is always appreciated.
Mike |
Are both 02 harness'/connections OK? Yeah the MAF, 02's, skip shift and reverse lockout are all on the same circuit. Strange it would blow after everything has dried out, unless an 02 harness wire is arcing somewhere.
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I did find a spot where the little plastic cover on the wires were melted and hitting the headers. I am going to assume that is where the problem lies. I wasn't able to see if the wires were damaged. So tonight I am going back under there to check. I hope I can just throw some electrical tape on and call it a day. I already routed the wires away from the headers, not to fix them.
Thanks for the response, I knew what it was immediately when I read your post. :D |
Ok so it isn't what I thought. My low oil light has been on for years and I found out the other day that the wire was broken. Put that back together and the low oil light has been off since.
Now back to the fuse. I cannot seem to find any wires that are exposed. I know it has to be an exposed wire because when I replace the fuse it does not blow out right away. If I drive like grandma it doesn't blow out, but if I hit the gas once or twice, it does. I traced the wiring harness from the CPU to the passenger side O2 and I do not see anything wrong there. I've checked the driver's side all the way to the top of the engine bay and haven't seen anything yet. I bought a mulitmeter to check the O2s and found that the driver's side is the only one without continuity. Two wires on the sensors themselves have continuity, the plug extensions for the O2s all have continuity, the passenger side O2's two wires have it, but the driver's side does not. So that is where I started following the wires. Nothing yet...This is horrible. |
I've pulled every wire in the damn car and checked continuity from the computer to the other end of the wire and everything is good. I cannot find any exposed wiring either. Could it just be my MAF is dying? I am 2 seconds from parting the car out and buying a Hyundai. :mad::mad::death::death::cry::cry:
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Is the fuse still blowing? If so has to be something on that circuit.
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Well since you seemed to have narrowed it down, it may not be the O2's now since the MAF is on the same circut.
Maybe you sucked up a little water and screwed the MAF up. Could try taking it off and using some carb or electronic parts cleaner and clean it off. Know anyone with another LS1 to try their MAF and see? |
Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28
(Post 5903884)
Is the fuse still blowing? If so has to be something on that circuit.
I wish I knew another person near me with an LS1 so I could test that theory. I am trying to find someone selling a used stock one so I can check. |
I glanced through the MAF code descriptions/diagnostics at gearchatter.com for your year. 101 (Performance), 102 (Low Frequency) and 103 (High Frequency). Only 102 mentions checking the engine sensor fuse for an open. www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8916.php Might help diagnosing the MAF, but probably not if something else is shorting blowing the fuse. Hang in there you'll find it.
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So I got back from Mexico and tore the car apart again. I found that the wiring for the plug that goes in to the tranny, directly above the starter, was exposed and frayed. I cut it and connected it back together using one of those little wiring clamp things (w/e the hell its really called.) I taped up the wire with some electrical tape that is good for about 200 degrees of heat. I put everything back together and drove the car about 10 miles and then had to replace the fuse but I then drove another 100 miles without issue. Then, it came back. The car acts the exact same way and the fuse blows every 10 feet I drive. I was so excited when I found that wire (no clue what it is actually for, my guess is the reverse selenoid since it plugs into the tranny ) So I got about 100 miles of happiness out of the car and now I am back to the misery. Kill me. :mad:
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There's an auxiliary power source post on the drivers side of the engine bay next to the fuse boxes, it's covered by a red plastic boot. A couple of years ago i blew the same fuse 5-6 times, one day i accidentally bumped the power post with my forearm and it was very loose. Once i tightened town that post and replaced the fuse my problem went away, check it out you never know. I'm also dealing with a few electrical issues so i feel your pain, i can't get my car tuned until i get it taken care of.
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Did you ever try replacing the MAF? I have a buddy that is having troubles with his car somewhat like this and it is about to drive him to the crazy house.
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Originally Posted by 98BackinBlack
(Post 5959907)
Did you ever try replacing the MAF? I have a buddy that is having troubles with his car somewhat like this and it is about to drive him to the crazy house.
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I hope you disclose the problem to the new owner, or they can potentially sue you for a hidden defect for "unloading" the problem on someone else.
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Originally Posted by Kraest
(Post 5960395)
I hope you disclose the problem to the new owner, or they can potentially sue you for a hidden defect for "unloading" the problem on someone else.
Of course I told the potential buyers everything that is wrong. And by everything, I even gave pictures of a small scratch in the tint on the rear windshield that you can barely see. I wouldn't want to buy something without know what is wrong with it and I don't expect others to buy things from me without knowing. |
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