i'm doing Prothane poly mounts and it took me 3 hours of steady work to get both mounts out!

major hassles...driver side was just awkward bolt locations and in order to pull the mount bolt out i had to remove the alternator bolts so i could pull it forward far enough for the mount bolt to come out.

passenger side i took the 4 bolts that go iinto the block and the 4 that go into the crossmember so that i wouldn't have to remove the AC pump to get the mount bolt out...

i'm going to go swap the bushings now...

reinstall maybe today..possibly tomorrow...arms are tired!

 

Get ready to have a bunch of new rattles in your car with the poly mounts, I got a poly tranny mount in my LT1, and have 2 motor mounts sitting in my garage, but I'm going to return the motor mounts and put on a stock transmission mount because it just rattles too much. I cant imagine what poly motor mounts would be like.

 

rattles or have the ypipe hit the frame on every launch...

i'll take the rattles...the clunk is embarrasing.

 

well i'm 50% done, got the driver side back in...that took better part of 3 hours in itself!! not easy wiggling the mount into place, lining up all the bolts, and getting them started without enough room to fit you hand or a wrench.

my main problem seemed to be that i needed to us a universal joint on the socket. this worked fine for removing the bolts, but when it came time to START the bolts again, it made it difficult to put direct pressure on them to start the threads.

needless to say this is becoming more of a hassle than previously anticipated.

and i have no idea how i'm gonna get the passenger side in. i spent time trying yesterday (on breaks from the driver side). and it seemed like i had NO room to manuver the mount. i'm hoping that with the drivers side in i can lift the motor enough to give addequate room.

 

did you try it with and without your front suspension loaded>??

 

the suspension is unloaded, on jackstands.

don't see how it would make a difference, since all the bolts and mounts are on the inside of the crossmember.

now that the driver side is in, i think i can jack the motor up and it will pivot on the DS mount enough to give me the needed room. before it would just lift up since both mounts were out.

logic says:
it came out so it should go back in, it's just a matter of figuring out the magic angle

 

Saw this thread and was just wondering if you noticed any increase or decrease in viberations.

 

i have not noticed ANY added vibration AT ALL

and i even swapped the torque arm bushing at the same time.

these mounts kick ***...the engine is now solidly planted on the frame.

 

Excellent! Now I know someone relatively local who has firsthand experience when I do mine!

 

lol...wouldn't call casselberrry "local" compared to the keys...but yeah i can help ya out if ya need with tips.

it's just time consuming and difficult due to confined spaces and awkward angles for bolts.

but it was well worth it to get rid of the frame clearance problem i was having