kozmosis

It only happens once in a while. It feels like you popped the clutch, but the clutch is still in, but you feel the loss of power for that second. Other people have driven it and it has done it to them. What's new in the car:
1. New clutch oe
2. New rear end - Strange S60, 3:73 gears, new drive shaft
3. New Stainless works exhaust - no cats

Any feedback would be appreciated.
97 ss 6spd
Bernie

JakeRobb

If I'm understanding right, you're saying that sometimes, when the clutch pedal is not depressed, the car behaves as if the clutch is depressed. Is that right? If so, can you hear the engine revs rise and there's just no corresponding acceleration?

What do first and second gear have to do with it? Does it only happen after a 1-2 shift? Like maybe the clutch isn't actually engaging all the way immediately?

kozmosis

Only happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd, which got me wondering if it has anything to do with the skip shift.
AS for the timing of when it happens: the clutch is being disengaged, the car bucks like the clutch was popped, but that's the point where I feel the power loss. I do not hear or feel the corresponding rpms for that second or two, then everything goes back to normal. Power is returned and I am going into third gear. And again it does not happen all the time, more so when the car has been driven at least 20 minutes.

JakeRobb

Ok, let's clarify. I'm not sure I'm following.

You say it happens when the clutch is being disengaged. That happens when you're pushing the pedal in. But it feels like you're popping the clutch? Most people use that term to mean they let the pedal come back up very quickly. Is that all correct?

I'm having a hard time imagining a scenario in which the car would buck while you're pushing in the pedal, but only when the car is warmed up and only on the 1-2 shift, but regardless of all that, I would start with the clutch system -- all of it. Pedal, master, lines, fluid, slave, fork, throwout bearing, pressure plate, friction disc, and flywheel. I don't have specific advice here (my car's setup is different), but maybe one of the LT1 experts can chime in with something more specific. I'd guess that the most likely culprits are either something defective related to your new clutch or an issue with the master or slave cylinders.

kozmosis

Clutch is to the floor and I am releasing the clutch when all of this happens. Does anyone know if I can disable the skip shift? Could the skip shift cause this type of problem?

Injuneer

Are you saying your "skip shift" system is still connected and functioning? If so it gets disabled by taking the harness connector off the solenoid on the driver side of the trans. The will set a code, so you get a 2.2 Kohm resistor and push it into the contacts in the harness connector. That eliminates the code.

If you mean you have already done that to disable the solenoid, and now you are wondering if the solenoid can be removed, the is going to be harder to do.

Skip shift only affects the shift lever operation, not the clutch.

kozmosis

I will have to drive it some more and try to narrow down when and what is happening.
As far as skip shift goes, the same garage put all the new parts in and I don't recall seeing that stupid light come on.

Injuneer

The only way to defeat the "skip shift" light is to program skip shift actuation out of the PCM, or cut the wire from the PCM to the light, or remove the bulb. If skip shift hasn't been programmed out, and the wire is cut or the bulb removed, the PCM will set code P1664.

Even if the solenoid is bypassed with the resistor, and not programmed out, the skip shift light will continue to operate.

If the "pop the clutch" feel occurs as you are letting the clutch pedal come up after a shift, sounds like the throw out bearing may be hanging up, and suddenly coming free.

kozmosis

I will keep that in mind. Took it for a long drive today and drove her hard in the lower gears, but had no problem today.
Thanks for everyones help. I will let you know if I run into anymore issues.