This morning on the way to work, I noticed that the in-dash security light was blinking, at luch it would not start, turns to the "on" position and radio and lights come on but security light blinks, turn to "run" position and all lights go out, no start.....Talked to our lead tech and he said that 90% of the time the resistor in the ignition key is bad(no contact), so I ran over to the locksmith and got the correct resistor key made....still the same thing, nothing happens in the run position. I have tried cycling the key fob through lock and un-lock, I cleared the one code in the computer for "Fuel pump relay security disable". I have tried diconnecting the battery...I'm sure one of you guys knows the answer...

I need help fast, otherwise I will have to drive the Ford tomorrow

 

Did some searching and most of the stuff talks about a security light that stays on, not a blinking one. But things to look at are:

The actuall VATS module?
Ignition switch?

What is the best way to bypass this...

 

There are many posts about VATS in the general tech forum.

Key pellet bypass info

 

Maybe shoebox can help but i believe you can have the resistor mod and the car still not start. Then at that point you need to program it out of the PCM.

 

My gf and I commute to work together, she works around the corner at the prototype shop where I work weekends, so I used their scan tool cause that's where the car was at. I am going to take our scan tool over there tomorrow because it has the brand new cartridges that communicate with the body control module, hopefully that will help narrow it down.

I thought it would be fixed with the new key, the old was was very visibly worn, and the resistor did not "click" into place like the new one does, but of course it can't be that easy...

 

Don't completely rule out the ignition switch. These go bad often as well... the contacts don't make up for it to see the resistor pellet so therefore it won't start

 

Sometimes my car does this until I jiggle the key just right. Just waiting for the day it leaves me stranded. So far it always starts, so Im going with if it aint broke dont fix it lol.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Especially thank you to Shoebox, your tech website absolutely rocks. This will be the second time it has helped me out by being able to find the problem and the procedure to fix it in half the time it would take me otherwise. The detail and pictures you include are a great asset. I did the resistor bypass this morning and the security light went out, and she fired right up. Thank You very much.

 

if you get a chance get it programmed out of your PCM too that'll take care of the fuel issue. If i understand correctly there are 2 ways vats can screw you, either through starting the car or cutting off fuel. What you fixed allows it to always crank but i believe things can still mess up and cut the fuel later on too. I'm sure shoebox will correct me if i'm wrong.

 

You don't need any correcting. The problem with not reading the key pellet is the most common problem.

MachinistOne: you are welcome.

 

Good it shows i'm learning something around here. I found this out the hardway that programming it out of the PCM doesn't really fix the whole problem.

 

I can tell you right now it is your ignition switch. Same thing happened to me right before christmas. Instead of buying a new switch, I by-passed the VATS system. Good luck.

 

same problem happened to me about a week ago...got a new key made, didnt work...by-passed the system, didnt work...cleaned the contacts, didnt work,...another really good possibility is ur BCM or VATS control module might have gone bad...i bought a new one and replaced it and the car fired up like brand new...if u do this and it works...the BCM recognizes the resitance value of the first key u start the car up with and it remembers that resistance value so make sure you know the value of that resistor of the first key you use in case u decide to get spares made...its and easy plug and play fix if its the bcm...located behind the glove box to the right hand side...best way is to take out the glove box and remove the under dash kick panel...that way u can see where ur working through the glove box area and operate from underneath....good luck