A/C tech question
A/C tech question
Can the LT1 A/C clutch and hub be pulled with the compressor still in place? I want to swap my pulley hub or bearing.
I found several threads in search where they mention pulley bearing problems but not a single reference as to a fix outside deleting it (not an option at 105 degrees) or slapping in a new compressor. As the dealer bothers to stock the bearing it seems its feasible.
GM says you have to pull the compressor, but at that point you might as well replace the whole thing. Seems stupid for a $20 bearing. The only quesion in my mind is will the hub clear that hose they so ingeniously decided to run in front of the clutch to let them book out an extra 3 hours.
Appreciate any insight.
Thanks
I found several threads in search where they mention pulley bearing problems but not a single reference as to a fix outside deleting it (not an option at 105 degrees) or slapping in a new compressor. As the dealer bothers to stock the bearing it seems its feasible.
GM says you have to pull the compressor, but at that point you might as well replace the whole thing. Seems stupid for a $20 bearing. The only quesion in my mind is will the hub clear that hose they so ingeniously decided to run in front of the clutch to let them book out an extra 3 hours.
Appreciate any insight.
Thanks
Re: A/C tech question
Why is it you think if you pull the compressor you might as well replace it? Is it that you don't want to vacuum the system down and replace the R134? Even if you replace it you still have the same amount of work. Why don't you try your little experiment of pulling the clutch on a car in a junk yard? Why can't you move the compressor but keep it connected and still do what you want?
Re: A/C tech question
There is plenty of room to get to the clutch, its that the geniuses at GM put the aluminum AC hoses about 1.5" from the face of the clutch so you have to pull the hoses off in all liklihood. I figure at the point I pull the hoses and loose all the freon requiring the system to be evacuated and charged, I might as well spend the $350 on a new compressor since its been in there for 105,000 miles.
You know, why spend $200 to $300 in case the compressor takes a dive down the road, when I can spend a little more and not have to worry about it.
It'd be worth throwing a new bearing in if I dont have to go thru all that, but not cracking the system open just to do the bearing.
Testing it out on a junker is fine, I was just hoping someone knew the answer. But looks like no one has gone that route. Hard to beleive i am the only one that had good AC but just a bad pully bearing.
You know, why spend $200 to $300 in case the compressor takes a dive down the road, when I can spend a little more and not have to worry about it.
It'd be worth throwing a new bearing in if I dont have to go thru all that, but not cracking the system open just to do the bearing.
Testing it out on a junker is fine, I was just hoping someone knew the answer. But looks like no one has gone that route. Hard to beleive i am the only one that had good AC but just a bad pully bearing.
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Caps94ZODG
Automotive News / Industry / Future Vehicle Discussion
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Sep 9, 2002 12:08 AM



