anthonyac1015

Did not have the old ICM tested, probably would be a good idea to do that. I used good thermal paste that I've used before for CPU heatsinks when building computers. When I took the old one off there was hardly any left and it was all crusty and gross so I cleaned up the heatsink really well and lightly sanded it before applying the compound. Didn't space it off the head but will consider that.

DrewHMS97SS

That should be good. The spacer as mentioned by Fred is also a good idea. My fingers are crossed that you found your gremlin.

anthonyac1015

Well hate to say it but seems like there's a new issue. Just tried to start it and something completely different happened.

Got in, turned the key to on and the whole dash lit up like normal and heard the fuel pump prime. Went to start it, just heard a click and all the power in the car went off: Dash, dome light, power locks, everything.

​​​​​Checked the voltage at the battery and it's fine, right about 12.56. Started pulling fuses that I thought could be related to check but nothing seemed blown. Went back in the car after checking the fuses and turned the key on and everything worked again. Turned the key to start it and same thing happened again. Pulled all the same fuses again and put them back in to see if it reset anything but didn't, still no power to anything.

Getting pretty frustrated with this electrical nightmare.

DrewHMS97SS

I know you checked the voltage, but that doesn't tell the whole story for a battery as the amps are what are needed to start the car. Before putting any serious thought into this, I suggest taking the battery to be tested.

anthonyac1015

Thanks for the advice, just got back from Advance Auto and they tested the battery for free. It was rated for 700 CCA and only tested at 4 so that's that haha, got a new battery and it starts up fine now. Definitely want to figure out a better way to secure the battery because the lip on the front of my tray is broken so it's got some room to bounce around. Not a whole lot of room down there so probably gonna run a tie down strap over the top of the battery until I figure out a better solution. I don't think these electrical issues are related but if they are I have a no questions asked 2 year warrantee on the battery so I can keep replacing it until I find the issue.

DrewHMS97SS

Does the car sit for long periods of time? I normally disconnect the battery if it is going to sit longer than a couple of weeks.

anthonyac1015

The car hasn't sat more than 2 or 3 days in the time that I've owned it, not sure about the previous owner. I've only owned the car for a little over a month.

DrewHMS97SS

Do you have anything aftermarket in the car connected to power? Things like stereo's, radar detectors, etc. can cause a draw. Check this out: https://www.popularmechanics.com/car...attery-drains/

anthonyac1015

No, the car is completely stock electrically. I don't think it's a power drain issue because the voltage is always fine, even when the car wouldn't start. I think the vibration from the battery not really being mounted finally killed it because the last time I drove it before the battery **** the bed was two days ago, and it was about an hour long drive on bumpy roads. Gonna figure out a tie down hopefully tomorrow if it ever stops raining and then just drive it a bunch and hopefully it's good.

DrewHMS97SS

If the battery is bouncing around, it could be physically damaged. Remember the battery is two parts in testing, volts and amps. Testing voltage alone is not sufficient.

I don't know of a way to tie the battery down without replacing the overflow canister. You could hack the car by using the radiator support and fender well, but honestly just hit up a junk yard and look for a replacement canister and do it right.

anthonyac1015

Well hate to say it but that ICM wasn't it, just had the same no start issue as before. Just gotta keep looking I guess

DrewHMS97SS

Have you tested the draw on the battery when the car is off? Have you had the battery tested again?

anthonyac1015

I've done neither of those things yet, mostly because I can't see how the problem could be intermittent if there is parasitic draw or if the battery is killed. It's not like the battery will just recharge itself sitting there. Also when it doesn't start, the starter cranks which should be drawing the most current out of everything so if that works then the battery should in theory be fine. Please correct me if I'm wrong though.

DrewHMS97SS

As long as the engine is turning, then you should have good amperage from the battery. I didn't go back through the whole post, but what are you seeing with the security light on the dash when the car won't start?

BIG SHAFE

Just a thought, have you checked your grounds or done any continuity tests for your grounds after getting the new battery? I know I've seen bad grounds cause weird intermittent starting problems. I would check ground cable connections to the chassis and block from the battery. Clean the bolts/surfaces/etc.