Jeff1904

Any update?

Injuneer

I knew I forgot to follow up on one of these. I retired at the end of the year and my life got very confusing with adjusting for all the changes. And then our stove crapped out. Ughhhh.

But I think I have it under control. Should be able to take care of it this weekend.

Injuneer

Still the same problems..... high LTFT's on the left side and low LTFT's on the right side. I don't see a lot of difference in the values, at least not for the cells you drove in most of the time.

12/26:

16 (idle) - 153/119
2 - 147/120
6 - 151/122
10 - 156/123
17 - 148/118
18 - 157/126

12/30:

16 - 160/124
2 - 146/124
6 - 153/123
10 - 157/124
17 - 152/118
18 - 134/125 (but this cell is still changing, due to high STFT on the left and low STFT on the right)

First, you have to start from the end of the log whenyou look at LTFT's. That is where they are most fully developed. You can't really look at the cells that are not frequently driven in, because they are not fully developed. Cell 18 is some sort of mathematical combination of 1 thru 15, so if some of the cells are not used frequently after a reset and hovering around 128, 18 can be off as well.

What I do see is that when you go into power enrichment mode, and the PCM sets the left and right LTFT's as 128, there is no significant difference in the average value of the left and right side O2 sensors. It appears to be fueled correctly at 128, so the 160 on the left (cell 16 as an example) is due to some cause other than actually running lean.

Have you checked your fuel mileage recently - 8 mpg was what triggered this thread? When you looked at the plugs, how did the left bank compare to the right bank? The left bank should be a bit sooty.

Jeff1904

Yes my gas mileage hasn't changed this is my daily driver car neither has the smell changed. Its very strong odor of just raw gas. Idling is unbearable it gives you a headache if you let it get into the car. I checked the spark plugs and the drivers side seems more "blacker" then the passenger side but I'm not 100% sure.

Jeff1904

Well still no help, but if anyone else has any suggestions I still would like to get this fixed. Car threw code 44 today it said, bank 1 Heated Oxygen Sensor (lean exhaust indicated).
I don't understand the car is running extremely rich even more then before. I am also concerned because it seems like my bank 2 readings are a lot more higher then they have ever been before almost staying at 160 like bank 1 I'm not sure but have a look thanks everyone.

GaryDoug

Did you ever replace that dented AIR check valve?
http://www.autozone.com/engine-manag...mString=search

Jeff1904

I plugged it and took the pump out.

GaryDoug

Where did you plug it, at the valve or at the AIR motor? If you plugged it at the AIR motor and it is defective, it could still leak over to the other side.

Injuneer

I would like to see a full response to Gary's question. No point in spending time on the log if an AIR component is still leaking.

No mystery at all as to why DTC 44 set, even though the engine is running (per you) extremely rich. DTC 44 sets when the PCM is in closed loop, and the O2 sensor signal voltage remains below 200 milliVolts for 50 seconds. If the O2 sensor is reading lean WHETHER THE ENGINE IS ACTUALLY RUNNING LEAN, RICH OR CORRECTLY the PCM sees the lean reading, and starts to increase the long term fuel corrections, pouring extra fuel into the cylinders on that bank of the engine.

The O2 sensor is very likely indicating a FALSE lean condition. This can be due to:
-faulty O2 sensor
-faulty O2 sensor wiring (e.g. sensor wire shorted to ground)
-exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor
-AIR system problem specific to one side of the engine
-misfires on that bank

Jeff1904

Ok to Gary, the valve I believe, I took it out and replaced it with a 22mm oil drain plug with a copper gasket. I did not fully take the air device out tho as i didn't want to take the things off in order to get to it I did however unplug the pump. I did find this morning that one of the vacuum plug boots was starting to rip off creating a leak i believe this is what was giving me more problems yesterday i fixed this issue now but the car is back to its original state which is better but no where near it should be i got 90 miles out of 10.8 gallons this past weekend. To Injuneer, thank you for that information and well this sensor is about 2 months old so I guess that leaves the other options as probable causes?

Injuneer

It looks like when something hit the check valve hard enough to dent it, the vertical pipe into the manifold was bent outward, away from the engine. Possibly the pipe is cracked, or there is a gap where the big flare nut holds the pipe in the manifold. I think the entire assembly may need to be removed and the hole in the manifold plugged with the 22mm plug. Getting that flare nut out may be close to impossible. It is very soft and usually corroded to the manifold.

However, looking very briefly at the file, at idle both side LTFT's are maxed out at 160. And in most cells the LTFT's have shifted upward quite a bit. That cannot be caused by the Bank 1 AIR problem. Something has changed since the earlier data logs.

gaedbo

Don't know if this helps, but here goes. I removed my air pump system a few months ago. The plug for the exhaust manifold was the hardest thing to find because nobody seems to carry that thread size. I finally found it on EBay, but it depends on the year and production time of your Camaro. If you decide to look for them on EBay, they are made by a company called ICT Billet. They are called LT1 Exhaust Plugs for 93-95 Camaro. You need to measure the Outside Diameter of the fitting you are removing. If the O.D. is 7/8" or 22mm then it is for 93 thru early 95's. If it measures 3/4", then it is for late 95's-97. Mine were the 3/4" ones.

I pre-soaked the original fitting with Liquid Wrench 2-3 times a day for 2 days before removing them. I used 1/2" drive breaker bar, extension, and correct socket. As soon as I got any movement out of the fitting, I added more Liquid Wrench, and then worked it forward and reverse a little to get the threads lubricated. Drivers side came out much easier than passenger side for me.

Injuneer

If you have the 22mm port (93-95 single cat) there is an oil drain plug for a Dodge Cummins diesel (and several imports) that works fine. The later LT1's (including the 95 CA emissions A4 cars with dual-cats, and some late production) are 19mm (~3/4"). Both sizes used to be available from a site in Canada for a few bucks. I used a copper gasket with mine (AS&M headers) to insure a decent seal.

Jeff1904

Yes i have already taken the flare nut out and plugged them with a 22mm oil drain plugs looks just like gaedbo's picture.

Injuneer

Then what "air device" did you not take out? The way you wrote the earlier response it sounded like you plugged the connection where the check valve screws in, but did not remove the elbow/pipe that screws into the manifold.