Injuneer

Removing the AIR pump (which isn't operating anyway) will not fix the problem. The more I look at the data,the more it seems to point to a large exhaust leak before the O2 sensor. There could be a crack in the metal pipe between the check valve and the manifold. The only other place the air could leak in is at the gasket between the manifold and the head (check for broken bolts) or a cracked manifold. In both cases you would hear the leak.

The way to check the issues:

-swap the left and right side O2 sensors side-to-side. If the problem (160 LTFT) follows the O2 sensor, it's an O2 sensor problem. If the problem stays on the left side, its a wiring or an exhaust leak problem. Not easy to access and swap the sensors.

-remove the AIR pipe from the exhaust manifold, and plug the hole with a 22mm oil drain plug and a copper gasket.

-at any point have you checked the spark plugs? The left bank plugs should be sooty from running so rich.

There is more than one problem. The passenger side of the engine is pulling fuel out.... as much as 11% (max possible using LTFT). But fix the left bank problem first,

GaryDoug

The dent in the AIR check valve may be a factor in this issue. If the check valve is stuck open, that would be a leak, at least after the pump stops.
Here is a photo of the parts inside. Note that the offset spring may actually tilt the retainer disk by design slightly.

Jeff1904

Thanks for the replies and the advice I will do this probably in two weeks as I'm going on a vacation but I will post back then.

Jeff1904

Ok so haven't posted in a while but earlier this week tried to get the 02 sensors out drivers side took 10 minutes but the passenger side never managed to get it out soaked it with deep creep etc used a 02 socket theirs a piece of the exhaust that is preventing the socket from being slipped on, removed starter its pretty rusted on there. Was thinking of getting some long tubes? New 02 sensors , without the air pump. It will also fix my exhaust leak where I cut my cat because it comes with a y-pipe. Whats your suggesting's on this?

Injuneer

Did you make the checks that I suggested above, other than attempting to swap O2 sensors... AIR connection and plugs on left bank? And as I noted, the right bank of the engine is not free from problems also.

Spending $500-600 on headers and Y-pipe, and hoping it will fix your problems doesn't seem like the best way to go.

Jeff1904

Yes all done plugged and decided to just buy a new 02 sensor and put it in the drivers side here's the log file. (looks like it didn't fix the problem sadly, I think you tell me) Also right after I finished I got 2 check engine codes one says the relay or fuse is missing from the air pump. ( I took it out after I plugged it). Then the other code says heated oxygen sensor right bank bank 2 (open circuit) Although I didn't touch that side today so I'm not sure why it threw the code anyways I wasn't sure if you would be able to see the codes but here.

Jeff1904

Correction took a look again and noticed I got a 3rd code towards the end of the drive so I went back to the car and took a look at them here they are.

29: Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump circuit
32: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
63: Bank 2 (right) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit (open circuit)

Jeff1904

Update: put back fuse and relay and went and just unplugged the air pump like you said on first page and now no codes from that cleared codes all are gone now haven't thrown any also took another data log except went threw lots of turns and stops over and over not sure if that matters much but the fuel trim readings did differ from my last run.

Injuneer

I'll try and take a look at the files over the next few days.

[EDIT] Looking at the 12/30 file. Still major problem with the LTFT's on the left bank. Maxed out at 160 in the idle cell, vs. 123 on the right side. Also a bunch of "trace" knock retard that seems to correlate with EVAP flow. But it's hard to tell. Throttle opens, knock retard appears, EVAP is opened up. Not sure if the EVAP flow leads or lags the (mostly) small amount of KR. Refresh my memory.... did we look at the EVAP system before, and verify it is not leaking air into the throttle body?

I've looked at so many files in the last year I'm losing track of them.

Jeff1904

No we haven't done any tests to confirm that the EVAP is not leaking air into the throttle body, how should I test it?

Injuneer

Not sure it could be a problem. It would affect both sides of the engine, not just the left side. I was just unsure if we had discussed this problem in the past. I remember someone who found the EVAP lines cracked, earlier this year.

Jeff1904

ok I see now is this the EVAP line it had a very noticeable crack line threw it little pull and completely came off this right?

Jeff1904

Update: Bought new EVAP solenoid as my OEM one actually had one of the vacuum plugs completely broken off new vacuum connecters to put it all in here's the data log after. (If Needed)

Injuneer

Looks like someone attempted to repair that solenoid with a "tee" from an auto parts store.

I'll see if it made any difference in the data log.

Jeff1904

Your right was pretty shocked when i bought the new one.

Ok thanks let me know