Bman4467

I put new gaskets on it from the heads up because it was whistling and it lost all power, from there my starter went bad, starting having coolant issuses so I changed the water pump and thermostat, and the optispark while I was in there. Pulstar plugs, msd wires. Now that I could get it running without overheating it it idles at 1000 while in open loop but as soon as it goes to closed loop it goes to 1500 and runs like crap in gear.

Bman4467

Open Loop

Bman4467

Closed loop

Injuneer

You were missing a few tags on the photos.

Not practical to look at a single screen shot. You need to run a full log from cold start through a couple minutes of closed loop.

Something wrong with Bank 1 (driver side) - cell 16 long term fuel trim is maxed out in closed loop at 160 (adding 25% extra fuel). Then it's adding more fuel with the short term. Bank 2 is closer to normal. Some pretty much impossible readings in closed loop - ignition volts shows 5.9 V. Should be setting a code for low system voltage. PCM can't function correctly with volts that low. IAC shows 254 counts, above the typical upper limit value. Never saw IAC counts that high. Explains the 1,294 idle RPM vs. target 738 RPM, and huge MAF reading. Bank 1 O2 sensor reads 0.004 volts, which could explain the high long term fuel trim. But the Bank 2 O2 sensor reads 0.000 volts, which would indicate a total absence of fuel. But a single frame of O2 volts is useless, because the values are bouncing all over the place about 9 times per second.

Check the dash gauge for volts to see if it really is that low. In open loop it's 13.3 V, but not in closed loop. If you can run a complete log, as suggested above.

If the system voltage is really 5.9 V, the PCM is probably totally out of control. Surprised the engine is even running.

Bman4467

Thanks man! Can I do the log, video it and put it on facebook so you can see it? On the dash my needle sits like right below the 12v mark. Do you think I have a trash battery? I didn't buy it from the best of places because I was short on cash lol.

Injuneer

You use Scan9495 to produce a .csv file of the log, and upload it somewhere that I can download it.

Bman4467

https://www.mediafire.com/?o82zjvojhzzz44i

i think i did it right lol

Injuneer

I'll download it. Sort of backed up with several of these requests. Seems like no one else does this any more???? Appears to be a good scan based on a quick look.

Bman4467

Thanks man, I'd really appreciate it. And I bet, it takes a good person to go out of there way for someone they don't know

Injuneer

Is the engine/tuning totally stock? If not, list all engine mods.

Have you done anything to the throttle body? Stock setups usually have a closed throttle voltage around 0.67 volts. Yours is 0.39 volts much of the time, but seems to drift up and down. When it was warming up, were you possibly resting your foot on the accel pedal? The voltage isn't adjustable, unless you slot the screw holes. And there is nothing wrong with it being at 0.39 volts.... just seems like it's drifting and it shouldn't do that unless you have your foot on the pedal.

Closed loop results are significantly different than your screen shot. Battery voltage never drops below 12.4 volts, nothing down to 5.9 volts. It does drop quite a bit when cranking the engine, but OK once it starts.

Just some random thoughts, questions. I'll continue looking at it when I have more time.

GaryDoug

Looks like the IAC may be a problem. It's either at 160 or 0 most of the time. Then once at 244 seconds the rpm drops for a few seconds and jumps back up to the prior level. Or maybe an intermittent air leak or blockage.

Bman4467

Yes sir, I'll throw a new one in and see what she does. Would my pcm go bad if I was using a hyper tech tuner and the battery died on the tuner halfway through?

GaryDoug

Might want to wait for Fred's opinion about the IAC valve. He is the expert.

As for the pcm: Could be, but it would either be ok or a completely dead pcm, not just partly working ok.

Injuneer

Yes, I saw that. What concerns me is that it's at "0" counts trying to pull the idle down to the target, and all of a sudden it opens up, seemingly for no reason at all to say "50", and then slowly starts closing down to "0" again.

This can be triggered be erratic Opti signals, based on a couple problems I've tracked down in the past, but I don't see the typical, obviously incorrect 1,000 RPM spikes that seem to proceed those Opti induced excursions. But then there's the issue of the TPS voltage jumping enough for the PCM to read the TP% as 1% to 5%.

Bman4467 - Need a response - were you moving the accel pedal for any reason while running those data logs?

As Gary said, don't start replacing parts until we figure out what's going on. An IAC sitting at "0" can be due to vacuum leaks, and that may be the problem.

Then there's the (ughhh) Pulstar spark plugs. Don't those thing have some sort of "patented internal capacitor"? Could that be generating RFI that's impacting thesensor reading received by the PCM?

Bman4467

It was doing it with a/c delcos too, and it's all stock except for hyper tech tuning, shift kit, wix air filter, and a hollowed out cat that leaks like a siv. And yessir I had pressed the gas to make it warm up a little faster, I figured you had better things to do then watch a 30 min video lol. I did buy a cheap opti.. From Amazon. I had driaind like 4 gallons of coolant on my stock one so I just threw a new one i