1996_White_Z_Hardtop

Hey guys been awhile since I've been on the forum, but was doing some recent work on the car and I'm looking for some help. I just replaced the fuel pump (dropped tank, axel exhaust) and buttoned her up yesterday. Looking to fire it up and verify the car runs again and now it won't even crank. I've had recent intermittent issues with this, but it eventually starts after a few tries. Things I've already tried:

1. Pulled starter - Autozone checked and confirmed its good
2. Pulled battery - Autozone checked and confirmed its good
3. Checked resistance on both keys - within range
4. Theft light goes off after 3-4 seconds (should be no issues with VATS)
5. All lights are on and working on the dash

Next steps I'm thinking of trying.
1. Jumper wire to starter
2. Jump the clutch start switch
3. look more into ignition switch

Looking for any help, having some difficulty finding info on this same issue.

Injuneer

Not unusual to find burned contacts in the ignition switch connector. Trace the 12 volt circuit from the ignition switch to the starter.

All of the following is from shbox.com:

Ignition switch:
http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic96.jpg

Starter:
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg

Ignition switch replacements, with notes on typical problem, at the top:
4th Gen F-body Ignition Switch Replacement

1996_White_Z_Hardtop

appreciate the reply Fred. I buddy of mine mentioned that he had a similar issue with his 1996 SS and stated that one of the wires on his ignition cylinder had broken. I'm going to take a look at the ignition cylinder first and double check the wires (pull the DAB, clock spring, and wheel off) then if that isn't the culprit I'll take a look at the ignition switch buried low on the column.

Injuneer

Also check the clutch switch.

If a wire from the lock cylinder is broken, the open circuit prevents the key from being read, and the SECURITY light should flash once per second. You should be able to access the purple/white and white/black wires to see if they are feeding showing a resistance value (will not exactly equal key resistance, due to what is on the other end of the wires). Disconnecting the connector for the white wire would allow you to look for an exact match, but not sure exactly where in the column that connector is.

http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-PassKey/VATS

1996_White_Z_Hardtop

Guys,

I wanted to conclude this post with what the issue was. After pulling the DAB and SW and checking the ignition cylinder and confirming wires were still good, I reviewed the clutch safety switch and confirmed that it was the issue. I pulled the clutch safety switch out and checked resistance both for depressed and standard position, both reading open circuit. I made a jumper wire and completed the circuit under the dash (and ensuring the shifter was not in gear) and the car started right up. Ran up to Autozone and picked up a new switch for $4.

Below is my process of elimination

1. Pulled starter - Autozone checked and confirmed its GOOD
2. Pulled battery - Autozone checked and confirmed its GOOD
3. Checked resistance on both keys - within range GOOD
4. Theft light goes off after 3-4 seconds - VATS GOOD
5. Checked ignition lock cylinder - GOOD
6. Checked clutch safety switch - BAD

Hopefully this will help anyone who experiences this issue.

Andrew Morris

Having similar issue with my 94. I have a brand new starter. A good battery. Have firm solid clean connections. Car has been sitting for about 2 months and Just tried starting yesterday for the first time since and that's when the issue started. Tried jumping the poles and nothing.

Injuneer

Did you check the SECURITY (PASS-Key) system, per Shoebox's guide in the link in post #4? What does the SECURITY light do when you turn the key to "run"? ..... when you turn the key to "start"? What does the starter solenoid do - nothing, or does is click? Do you here a clicking in the dash when you turn the key to "start"?

Andrew Morris

When i turn the key to start, the starter just clicks fast and loud. When the key is the on position there is no security light on, but there is a loud buzzing from the dash for like 3 seconds or so. When it's turned all the way to start(while the rapid clicking happens) the guages flutter a little bit and the dash lights flicker. I've eliminated the starter and it's connections, the battery and it's connections, the engine isn't stuck. I have never had this kind of issue before. Do not know what in the world caused it.

Injuneer

Can you tell where in the dash the 3 second noise is coming from? The fuel pump relay only actuates for a couple seconds when you turn the key to “run”, then it shuts down. That noise would come from the driver side kick panel by your foot. Possibly system voltage is too low to hold the relay closed.

There is also a “theft deterrent relay", which is in effect the starter relay. That only actuates when you turn the key to "start", located in the dash, outside the right side of the glove box.

The fact that the dash lights flicker and the gauges flutter when the starter solenoid is clicking would likely indicate a voltage problem, like something is drawing excessive power, or there is corrosion somewhere in the circuit. What does the dash volt meter read when you turn the key to "start"?

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg

shoebox

Was the battery actually tested?