I know this topic has been talked about before but I have not been able to get this issue resolved.

What are you high hp blower guys using to deal with crank case pressure?

i know that the "caddy 4/6/8" pump is a viable option but I do not know what to do with that information. What do i ask for from GM. When i went to the dealership they just looked at me like I was an idiot. Thats all I knew.

Can someone point me in a direction?

TY

Things getting better. The new motor is burning oil - it appears the rings did not seat - so it will have to come out in the winter, but the tuning with the FAST is coming along quite well. Shooting for 600 - 625 rwhp.

 

On my last 355 with S-Trim and on my new 385 with same blower I have the PCV on rear of passenger side valve cover going to throttle body and on the other valve cover I have a K&N Filter but am thinking of putting in another PCV to the throttle body. I didn't have any oil issues on the last 355, But on the new motor I'm staying out of boost until It's broke in in a couple hundred more miles. I think the more vacuum you can create in the crankcase the better as long as your not blowing any oil up top which seems to be your problem, maybe due to your rings not seating. HP wise I hope to be in the same range as you

 

What you need is a real vacuum pump, off a car that used it for the power brake booster. I think that is the Cadillac application. I tried the F-body air pump, no worky.
There is a short list of cars that had electric vacuum pumps here:

Free Horsepower

Scroll down towards the bottom...

Mr. Gasket was coming out with a new, electric vacuum pump, but I heard it has already been recalled, due to problems..

 

Fabulous texlurch.

That is absolutely what I was looking.

Thanks a ton

 

I think the price on a Vacuum pump I saw was $800

 

TY,

You may want to check this site www.gofastzone.com and do a search about this because this subject has covered present and past as a matter of fact I do remember a discussion going on in one of the forums to date.

Each engine combination can yeild different results and or have a strong impact on the hp increase as I said depending on the engine combination. I know of a few guys that seen benefits to using a vacuum pump when they had there motor on the dyno. At least one guy I know running a Chevy(stroker) 406ci when on the dyno he was using a Moroso belt driven unite and he made a few pull without the pump and with the belt connected and what he found with his motor was when the vaccum pump was in use the motor picked up 26hp and when the pump belt was taken off the motor lost the power.

Like I said try the site listed because many of these guy's are drag racers that have proven experiance as to weather or not they found power. Considering the guy's on this site are running street cars( I guess if that's what you want to call them) that are running quarter mile times in the 7's!

My experiance with the vacuum pump has been always a positive power gain as long as you get the whole motor sealed up and the pump doesn't pull more vacuum that needed because it will pull seals and what in the motor if to mmuch vacuum is created.

Some advice, the electric pump offered by GM atleast the Camaro unit doesn't pull enought vacumm to show a benefit not to mention it wasn't designed to run continues. I do have a few buddies using a OEM Ford pump that does pull great vacuum and is very cheap, the down side is the vanes inside the pump do wear out and are plastic but fro under $50.00 bucks you cant go wrong. The only draw back is you have to fab your own bracket and pulley setup.

Good Luck,
Jim

 

To put this topic in proper perspective, the vacuum pump (AFAIC) should be used to augment/supplement the oem PCV system. IOW, this auxillary pump should not run continuous. (So much for belt driven pumps) This vacuum pump should pick up where the oem system leaves off. Under part throttle, idle, and cruise, the oem PCV system is adequate. Under full load (WOT) the PCV system does not function. The pump should be wired to operate under conditions of little or no (intake) vacuum, and supply vacuum of the stength similar to that of the oem system while under cruise/part throttle conditions. The intent should be to maintain a continuous vacuum draw out of the crankcase under any given driving condition, not to put the crankcase in a vacuum environment such as experienced in the induction system, any more than it should be pressurized.