Supercharger for 1994 z28
Supercharger for 1994 z28
Hello i have a 1994 z28 with 58,xxx miles. I was wanting to put a supercharger on it. I would probably just run 6psi. Could you recommend me a good kit. Preferably under 5k. And what all would i have to do to install it? How does this one look http://www.aaxel.com/Merchant2/merch...&Store_Code=AX ? Thanks, any help is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by 94lt1kid; Sep 23, 2007 at 01:16 PM. Reason: found supercharger, want advice on it
Even at 6psi, its somewhat unreliably and really turns into a ticking time bomb. You might get 200 miles, you might get 20,000 but it will let go sooner rather than later.
Buy the best supercharger kit you can that way when it blows up, you can rebuild, and take advantage of having a quality blower set up. Get a P1SC or D1SC Pro Charger set up and pulley it down as low as it can go. Alot of people say its not worth paying for the twin highflow intercoolers, and to rather just upgrade to an different brand front mount intercooler. Something to keep in mind if you think you will ever end up running HIGH boost on a built engine.
Look around, you might find a deal on a used one on here. Their around.
I wouldnt really look at anything other than ProCharger or Vortech
Buy the best supercharger kit you can that way when it blows up, you can rebuild, and take advantage of having a quality blower set up. Get a P1SC or D1SC Pro Charger set up and pulley it down as low as it can go. Alot of people say its not worth paying for the twin highflow intercoolers, and to rather just upgrade to an different brand front mount intercooler. Something to keep in mind if you think you will ever end up running HIGH boost on a built engine.
Look around, you might find a deal on a used one on here. Their around.
I wouldnt really look at anything other than ProCharger or Vortech
I agree. Even putting a mild to low amount of boost on a stock LT1 (or LS1 for that matter) which are both high CR non forged motors, meaning they were not meant to take boost from the factory is asking for problems. You would at least need to bare minimum spend a bit on supporting mods like a bigger fuel pump (if not a dual Walboro system like most of us on this board run), bigger injectors, methanol injection, intercooler, dyno tune, ect., ect., ect. Even then you are rolling the dice. You might make it 20,000 miles or you might end up like my old boss with his 98 WS6 who ran 8#'s with all the supporting mods and a good tune, and he fried a piston at 2500 miles.
The only way I would reccomend doing it, is if you had already pre-planned to do a rebuild. That way, when it does go (and it will sooner or later), you are expecting it and can do it right. Most guys on here who have reliable built setups running 12#'s of boost or more, have spent around $20,000 between a good strong motor setup, and a supercharger setup, and all the supporting mods I listed earlier. There just isn't a cheep way to go boosted reliably. Especially if you plan on making some decent HP out of it. 6#'s of boost isn't really going to yeild you much, and you still will have to spend thousands on the supporting mods and the supercharger.
IMO (and try a search because this question is asked all the time on here with the same answers from a lot of guys including myself), it is more cost effective to stay NA and go with a great heads cam and intake combo. You can make some big power that way, and it will still be reliable, and not cost you even a fraction of the amount it costs to go boosted. You would make more power with say a good set of AFR 220 heads, a GM 847 cam, and a ported intake. More power than a stock LT1 with minor mods and a supercharger only cranking out 6#'s of boost. And it would be cheeper as well. If you have you mind made up though on going boosted, I would just continue to save up, until you can do it right, and build the motor to take the power. That way you can run around with 600+RWHP and not have to worry about the motor blowing up.
The only way I would reccomend doing it, is if you had already pre-planned to do a rebuild. That way, when it does go (and it will sooner or later), you are expecting it and can do it right. Most guys on here who have reliable built setups running 12#'s of boost or more, have spent around $20,000 between a good strong motor setup, and a supercharger setup, and all the supporting mods I listed earlier. There just isn't a cheep way to go boosted reliably. Especially if you plan on making some decent HP out of it. 6#'s of boost isn't really going to yeild you much, and you still will have to spend thousands on the supporting mods and the supercharger.
IMO (and try a search because this question is asked all the time on here with the same answers from a lot of guys including myself), it is more cost effective to stay NA and go with a great heads cam and intake combo. You can make some big power that way, and it will still be reliable, and not cost you even a fraction of the amount it costs to go boosted. You would make more power with say a good set of AFR 220 heads, a GM 847 cam, and a ported intake. More power than a stock LT1 with minor mods and a supercharger only cranking out 6#'s of boost. And it would be cheeper as well. If you have you mind made up though on going boosted, I would just continue to save up, until you can do it right, and build the motor to take the power. That way you can run around with 600+RWHP and not have to worry about the motor blowing up.
Yep, well said.
Another really good option for you owuld be to spray it. You wont loose the driveability with a heads and cam set up, make MORE power, and make it only when you want it. Plus its pretty much stand alone and easy to tune for in a wet set up. Plus its cheap to go bigger if you ever rebuild. You can do a complete (And reliable) nitrous set up for 1500 give or take. You need to do a new fuel pump & harness, ignition box, bottle heater, purge, WOT switch, Window switch (Inless ignition box can tune for it), PCM tune to eliminate rev limiter, and its a damn good idea to run an AF guage.
Another really good option for you owuld be to spray it. You wont loose the driveability with a heads and cam set up, make MORE power, and make it only when you want it. Plus its pretty much stand alone and easy to tune for in a wet set up. Plus its cheap to go bigger if you ever rebuild. You can do a complete (And reliable) nitrous set up for 1500 give or take. You need to do a new fuel pump & harness, ignition box, bottle heater, purge, WOT switch, Window switch (Inless ignition box can tune for it), PCM tune to eliminate rev limiter, and its a damn good idea to run an AF guage.
Thanks for all the help! Looks like im probally just gonna spray. What kit would be good; wet or dry. I heard that the wet syestem is better and safer so ill probally get a wet system. Ill probally just run a 75 shot. How does this kit look http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=228 ? And i think im just gonna buy a window switch from somebody on here. How hard would it be to install the kit and the window switch? Thanks!
Keep in mind that without a forged bottom end, running spray has potential to do the same harm that boost from a blower (or turbo for that matter) does. It fits along the same lines as you could probably get away with running a small 50-75 shot for quite a while before you would probably run into issues, but it is still running something that a high CR motor was not meant to run.
Just make sure you retard the timing, and stay with a small shot and plenty of fuel, and it will probably last for longer than supercharging would, and will be cheeper.
Just make sure you retard the timing, and stay with a small shot and plenty of fuel, and it will probably last for longer than supercharging would, and will be cheeper.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
94z28jbw
Site Help and Suggestions
2
Sep 8, 2002 03:22 PM



