96 WS6

Okay from what I have in the sig now I plan to do heads/bottom end next after I'm done with suspension. I won't be upgrading my s-trim compressor so 10-12# is the most it will see. I plan to do lloyd elliot ported lt1 heads. So I need to know what I need in the bottom end to support let's say <550 rwhp. This is what I'm thinking of so far.

JE -31cc "off the shelf" forged blower pistons
Reconditioned stock rods
4 bolt block or 4 bolt main studded conversion
ARP rod bolts and head studs

Problem is I do not know much about cranks (which brand/model to use - all I know is I want forged haha), or bearings for the crank or cam. I also don't know which pistons rings are best for a boosted car. Any suggestions on that?

What other parts do I need to complete the bottom end? Do I need a harmonic balancer? What about new cam bearings? Oil pan?

I believe the compression ratio with those pistons will be somewhere in the low 9's. Is that a good number to be at for my boost level? I don't have money for aftermarket heads with bigger cc's so I think those pistons are my only option right...

I'd like to keep the price as low as possible without skimping... Thanks.

MEAN LT1

While you have the block out, I wouyld have your local machine shop check the block out and make sure its ok and might as well have them put in new cam bearings and freez plugs. Im in the same boat as you are as far what rings to go with. Im running trw forged pistons wich will make my compresion around 9.2:1 with stock heads. I'll also be running around 12-14psi with this setup.

brand-x

You can get an Eagle 4340 crank for under $550 if you look around. I would also get a set of rods while you're at it...they run less than $350 per set for H-beams. If you don't already have a preference, use the Clevite "H" series bearing and SpeedPro Plasma Moly file fit rings. You won't need a new balancer but you will need to get you rotating assembly balanced. It's alwasy a good idea to get new cam bearing and freeze plugs installed while the block is at the machine shop...very inexpensive. An ARP stud kit for upper and lower and I think you'll be good to go.

rskrause

Scat may be a better choice in a low-end 4340 crank, at least ccording to Bret Bauer (who builds engines for a living). I like the Callies Dragonsalyer, though it's a bit more expensive. You don't need anything speical in the ring and bearing department, IMHO.

Rich Krause

LameRandomName

But pay particular attention to how well the top ring fits in it's groove.

Also, if you glass bead the pistons to stress relive the surface, make sure you tape off the grooves for the ring pack. You want the surface of the land that comes in contact with the ring to be smooth.

LWM

What ever ... you are not that far off of my set up ....

JE and SRP pistons are the same if I'm not mistaken ... or at any rate close enough for government work ....

This is what I ended up with

Forged Steel Callies crank ... not sure as to its designation
-31 cc dish SRP forged pistons
Crane 1.5 non self aligning roller rockers
Comp cams 224/236 114lsa
SVO 42# injectors
Super FMU, makes 58psi of fuel pressure at 8 psi of boost at 6,100 rpm
AFR 190cc heads with 58cc chamber to make 8.9 - 9.0:1 compression ratio.
Oliver connecting rods, 5.7"
ARP head studs and bolts
Splayed 4 bolt main caps
S-trim blower, 3.125"/7" pulleys

Stock computer with LT1 editor, set the injector constant to 47# and the cylinder volume to 47.875 cu in. Set idle speed up to 850 rpm.

Runs good, air/fuel ratio is solid at 12:1

Gotta say thanks to the board for all the help in answering my questions along the way ...


yadda yadda ...


The 224/236 cam which is highly recommended by this board works well. ... I do have low vacuum issues at my altitude ... 3,500 feet. Otherwise the stock tune in conjunction with the LT1 editor or what ever software you decide on ... will get you near enough .... a lot of details enter into the actual fine tuning ... but you will be close with just the injector size and cylinder size factors entered.

hope this helps

LWM

Wild1

This guy has good prices for Eagle kits...

http://www.stores.ebay.com/superenginebuilders

Tell him what you need.

EDS Z28

Check out www.speedomotive.com

Wild1

yeah, Kevin in the So Cal Camaro Club bought his 396 through them and he is very satisfied. Speedomotive has been around for a long time... since the 60's.

96 WS6

Thanks for all the answers guys. This is what I am thinking as of now:

Eagle forged 4340
5.7" H-beams (or stock "reconditioned, what does that involve by the way haha)
Je -31cc pistons
Clevite 77h bearings (what exactly does the "h" mean?)
Speedpro plasma moly rings

All that will give me 9.2:1 cr. In addition, I want splayed 4-bolt main caps (any good suggestions on brand for the main caps?). New cam bearings, new freeze plugs. Would it be better to get a short block package or to buy the parts separate?

I think that is a good beginning plan? Anybody see anything I should add or change? I need to know what I need to do to the block to make it work. Hot tank, align hone, clearance, magnaflux etc etc. Which ones are necessary and have I left any out?

Lastly, are there any special requirments for a forced induction buildup? Anything special I should go for in the heads and/or bottom end. Like special tolerances, parts, etc. etc.

Thanks.

EDS Z28

I wouldn't run stock LT1 connecting rods, there has been a few failures. They aren't a real forging, but rather powdered metal. They rating is 450 HP, that's it.

If I had to do it all over again, just buy a matched rotating assembly which is internally balanced. This makes it much easier.
It cost an extra $500 to convert to the splayed 4-bolt main caps-probably a good investment.

Wild1

Eagle H-Beams are a slick piece of work.

mehoffz24

does any one on this board have anything bad to say about the Eagle h beams? i have heard good and bad, but not sure what kind of failures they have tho.