Snapped crank snout yesterday!
Snapped crank snout yesterday!
Well, time to join the rebuild club. I snapped my stock crank snout. Not to eager to pull the motor to fix it, but it gives me a good reason now for more power. Good thing summer is almost over. Now my question is to you guys, is what kind of forged setup should i get. What is everyone running, and whats seems to be a reliable brand and what kind of prices I am looking at here? Thanks for any replies, donations always welcomed
. Thanks guys......John
. Thanks guys......John
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
My favorite mid-priced combo is a Callies "Dragonslayer" crank, Lunati rods, and JE blower pistons. If you want to save a few hundred you could do the Eagle H-beam rods and SRP pistons. I have a predjudice against the Eagle rods because they are Chinese, but many people feel differently. The SRP pistons use the same forging dies as the JE but the machining is not quite as good and the alloy used is often different, but they are a good piston.
Rich
Rich
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
Thanks Rich, for the info. Where would a good place be to look for these particular parts you mentioned? What would you say (ballpark) the price on that crank should run? Just so I know, so I don't get robbed. Thanks again for your much appreciated info....John.
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
John,
cmotorsports.com has the Callies "Dragonslayer" for 759.00 for both the 3.75 & 3.875 strokes, they also list the Eagle cranks for 599. So it's not that much more for a quality product. Thats probably what I'll go with when I do my blower motor.
-Tony
cmotorsports.com has the Callies "Dragonslayer" for 759.00 for both the 3.75 & 3.875 strokes, they also list the Eagle cranks for 599. So it's not that much more for a quality product. Thats probably what I'll go with when I do my blower motor.
-Tony
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
D@mn! I wish I hadn't bought those Eagle rods and crank! I hate when companies (like mine) lay off people because of cheap Chinese production. . .
BMAN'S SCZ, I'm selling a 3.50" stroke ZZ3 crank (forged 1053 steel) right now. It's 1-piece rear seal and roller cam, so it'll work in an LT1. Forged 1053 steel is better than cast steel but not as good as 4340. Make an offer if interested and keep in mind shipping will be high.
Mike
BMAN'S SCZ, I'm selling a 3.50" stroke ZZ3 crank (forged 1053 steel) right now. It's 1-piece rear seal and roller cam, so it'll work in an LT1. Forged 1053 steel is better than cast steel but not as good as 4340. Make an offer if interested and keep in mind shipping will be high.
Mike
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!*update*
I took the hub off today and come to find out i spun the hub and wore down the cranksnout. I thought it was broken because it was wobbling and I thought the screw was holding it on still. What can I do for a quick fix for a couple of months? Does anyone know what taper that is on because i can machine a smaller dia. plug to fit in the hub and just key it. Or do you think it is useless? Any advice is very appreciated right now. Please let me know what you guys think.........John.
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!*update*
John,
You can get a keyed balancer hub for the LT1, but if the stock hub is 'wobbling', you might have some substantial damage to the crank!
You can get a keyed balancer hub for the LT1, but if the stock hub is 'wobbling', you might have some substantial damage to the crank!
Originally Posted by BMAN'S SCZ
I took the hub off today and come to find out i spun the hub and wore down the cranksnout. I thought it was broken because it was wobbling and I thought the screw was holding it on still. What can I do for a quick fix for a couple of months? Does anyone know what taper that is on because i can machine a smaller dia. plug to fit in the hub and just key it. Or do you think it is useless? Any advice is very appreciated right now. Please let me know what you guys think.........John.
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!*update*
Originally Posted by BMAN'S SCZ
I took the hub off today and come to find out i spun the hub and wore down the cranksnout. I thought it was broken because it was wobbling and I thought the screw was holding it on still. What can I do for a quick fix for a couple of months? Does anyone know what taper that is on because i can machine a smaller dia. plug to fit in the hub and just key it. Or do you think it is useless? Any advice is very appreciated right now. Please let me know what you guys think.........John.
Here's some reference links for all this sheit..
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=94281
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=202609
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178369
--Sean
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
[QUOTE=engineermike]D@mn! I wish I hadn't bought those Eagle rods and crank! I hate when companies (like mine) lay off people because of cheap Chinese production. . .
I know what you mean. My company is selling out to go to S. Korea and Mexico. Doors will be closing at the end of this month.
Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
I know what you mean. My company is selling out to go to S. Korea and Mexico. Doors will be closing at the end of this month.
Didn't mean to hijack the thread.
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
Callies themselves is a good source for a rotating assembly. They sell the Oliver forged rods, which are good also. I refuse to have any Chinese stuff on my car, glad there are others who feel that way too!
Rich
Rich
Originally Posted by rskrause
I refuse to have any Chinese stuff on my car, glad there are others who feel that way too!
Rich
Rich

FWIW, the price of the Manley H-beams have come down in price to be more competitive with the chinese markets. I've seen the Manley H-beams for around 409.00/set. I 'think' the Manleys are made here also, but I'm not positive.
Mike
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
Originally Posted by engineermike
D@mn! I wish I hadn't bought those Eagle rods and crank! I hate when companies (like mine) lay off people because of cheap Chinese production. . .
That being said, Where a product is made is of little concern to me. Cost and quality are a factor for me. Everyone hates to see business going to China, but it is driven by the consumer (us!!!) demanding lower prices. To compete componies must find a way to lower prices or not survive. Next time your at Walmart try to find something made in the USA, most of it isn't, and they are the nations largest retailer. We made our bed, lets sleep in it.
Re: Snapped crank snout yesterday!
Originally Posted by SMOKNZ
You seriously didn't know that they were made in China, I thought that was pretty much common knowledge.
That being said, Where a product is made is of little concern to me. Cost and quality are a factor for me. Everyone hates to see business going to China, but it is driven by the consumer (us!!!) demanding lower prices. To compete componies must find a way to lower prices or not survive. Next time your at Walmart try to find something made in the USA, most of it isn't, and they are the nations largest retailer. We made our bed, lets sleep in it.
That being said, Where a product is made is of little concern to me. Cost and quality are a factor for me. Everyone hates to see business going to China, but it is driven by the consumer (us!!!) demanding lower prices. To compete componies must find a way to lower prices or not survive. Next time your at Walmart try to find something made in the USA, most of it isn't, and they are the nations largest retailer. We made our bed, lets sleep in it.
And while we are up in arms about buying the chicom parts, let's take a sec and look at what we have around the house..
tv, dvd, stereo, cell phone.. hope we are all buying American, not just for car parts!
Price drives the competition, unless you are too wealthy to care.


