Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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I was trying to find your pics and what all was involved in your vac setup. Did you stand your radiator up to run the GZ setup? What all had to be done to get that to fit underneath the hood? Thanks.


Silas,
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:37 AM
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I have pix @ photobucket.com
http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn244/mzgp5x/
A number of pics on VAC pump and Rad move mod.

The Vac pump is a GZMS VP103 crank driven with a single "A" section V-belt. The pump is mounted to a pivoting/ spring loaded cantelevered alum bracket that mounts to the left side motor compartment rail. It was all custom along with a custom pressure regulator, and, my own version of recirc oil line to lube the pump vanes. Not alot of room under the hood on these 4th gen F_bods.

So far, it all works good, and, the resulting cylinder pressure is lots of fun. Could not mount the vac pump on the Left due to ATI Procharger location. I also designed my own vac pump oil receiver. I could not find any with centrifugal oil separation features. None of this stuff is difficult.

The rad had to be moved for the Vac pump mod. I removed the stock top and bottom rad mount. Fabbed my own. The rad was larger than the typical Griffin (I had a larger Be-Cool from Summit). I see the typical Griffin mod usually uses the stock lower rad mount. That was not possible with the Be-Cool due to hood closure clearance. The rad is nearly vertical, angled slightly. Also, I use (2) 12" low profile flex-lite fans.

Also... AC deleted. Front hood latch mount has been modified and tied to front bumper. My IC is located under the rad in front of the engine cradle (Not a front mount IC).

Did all this last winter. Very little steel needed to fab lower and top rad mounts. I used hot-roll bar stock available @ home-depot. I did not remove the front facia for this mod. You need a good cut-off saw and decent MIG welder (Miller 130).

Yes, I am glad I did it. The added space makes it very easy to work on the engine, and, great to look @. Also, I have gone to Evans waterless coolant. Great for FI applications where heat is a problem (the engine is happy with the added heat removal). With Evans NPG+, I had to mod the water pump bypass circuit (No t_stat).

Sorry, PM is off. I would rather not deal with some of the BS I have received in the past, but, I would be glad to help you thru private e_mail messages.
Hope this helps. B.
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:55 AM
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Thanks B for the info. I see that it's a rather expensive setup but if it works then that's all that really matters. Considering how much we've got dumped into these cars...it's a drop in the bucket. My only concern would be having to fab up the parts needed to run the GZ system. I don't have a welder but I've got friends who do.
Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:23 AM
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Yes, there is no substitute for tools. I have a good number of them, and, a small lathe and mill. Sometimes you got to do it yourself to get it right, and, tools really help. The crankcase vac pump mod was one of the best mods I've done resulting in a big kick when I first hit the throttle. Massive wheel spin all over. Really alot of fun. I could probably re-make alot of these parts, but, @ what cost???

My experience, there is alot of blow-by with FI engines. I did some reading, and, was never satisfied with the PCV stock system applied to the FI mod, and, the various alterations. Oil iduction to the intake system is never a good thing for FI.

I guess a Camaro is what you make of it. A personnel expression of modding. There are not many people interested in what I have done out here in Detroit land, and, I don't wave my flag anymore. I'm into dirt bikes now.

Just throwing this stuff out there.
B.
Old Jan 28, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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Well if you ever decide to part that GZ piece out let me know! I'm just running the Morosso evac kit and it seems to do the job but I definitely would rather run a pump setup if at all possible.
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