Finally got all the plumbing done, lot of blood, sweat and tears. Put the belt on, made a custom tune and downloaded to car. In all excitment I tried to take a small test drive to finally see my boost gauge go PAST 0 (just been using as a vacuum reference before). I don't want to blow the motor, so I want to take it slow and do logging before hammering on it. So, I squeeze the pedal to 3k rpm, won't pass 0. Frustrated, I rev to 4k... still won't pass 0. Trying to get ideas of what the hell is wrong. Here's a quick rundown of the setup-

Vortech V1 with stock pulleys, ebay FMIC/plumbing/BOV, Suck through MAF with BOV recirculated, boost gauge is tapped off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator vacuum source, BOV is tapped off of the EGR vacuum source. In my tune, idle and cruising timing is around 30deg and decreases to WOT of 17.

Can a cheap ebay BOV leak ALL the boost out?? I have it set to 2 turns from SOFTEST setting. Also, the BOV doesn't push any air out at idle. I did pull off the hose from the volute of the SC and the SC is pushing air out with the car idling. Maybe I have too much plumbing??? Measured about 10ft from SC to TB including intercooler. Any help is appreciated.

 

Pulled out the bov pipe and now have straight pipe. Ran datalog and confirmed MAP sensor reading no boost. If I pull off the pipe into the TB the blower is pushing air at idle. As it revs up, the air flow increases, not sure how much its suppose to increase. If you completly cover the output of the blower, then there is no vacuum on the input to the blower. If you cover the input, there is no output. I'm stumped and pissed... i want boost dammit. Would rotating the volute 180 have any affect on pressure and boost??? because I moved it to point downward for the FMIC. HELP!

 

What is the actual value of the MAP sensor reading? Also, if your just slowly easing up the rpm's, you may not make boost. You have to put it under a little bit of a load. You can turn a lot of rpm and not make actual boost.

Ken R.

 

Ok, so I pulled the PCV out and I can blow through both sides. I'm going to route the PCV to the vacuum side of the blower and cap off the intake manifold port.

Also, a bad EGR could leak boost right?? Is it easy to delete?

 

just easing into it wont build boost.

 

I've gone WOT from 2k to 5k with 90kpa MAP reading

 

Only thing I can think of is a boost leak. Does your car show symptoms of a vacuum leak? If not, You have a boost leak.

 

Cheap bypass valve can def cause this. If your pressure side piping is tight, its likely your bypass valve. Either your vacuum line to it isnt keeping it shut when under boost, or your valve is defective.

Pull the valve off, and put vacuum / pressure on it (use your mouth) to see if its moving.

 

Or just leave the vacuum line hooked up to the intake and start the car.

 

I eliminated the BOV already- put straight pipe in place of adapter pipe. Removed PCV from intake system, still no fix. I have EGR blockoffs on order and will see what happens when I delete the EGR. I'm 50% it could all be blowing out the EGR valve into the exhaust.