My 10# 355ci build
#16
Hey Glen,
@ $220, are those the ones with the larger bolts (7/16 rather that 3/8)? You would be OK with either but may want to consider the beefier rod bolts.
You could search and search on here for debates on 'I' vs 'H'. No need to worry about strength of either design at these levels. Main forces on the rod are tensile. Period.
Tensile force is due to RPM and weight of the piston - trying to pull the rod apart. Main reason for recommendations of good ARP bolts.
The compressive force is usually not as significant (power stroke - cancels out to some degree the tensile force from the piston/rod moving upward)
So I vs H is really to which extent the rod is likely to buckle under compression. How does side loading play in (an 'I' rotated 90 degress = H)?
If the goal is to build the lightest yet strongest rod out there ......which design shall be explored by the manfacturer? Is it possible that an 'H' beam rod costs more to manufacture? Not sure.
@ $220, are those the ones with the larger bolts (7/16 rather that 3/8)? You would be OK with either but may want to consider the beefier rod bolts.
You could search and search on here for debates on 'I' vs 'H'. No need to worry about strength of either design at these levels. Main forces on the rod are tensile. Period.
Tensile force is due to RPM and weight of the piston - trying to pull the rod apart. Main reason for recommendations of good ARP bolts.
The compressive force is usually not as significant (power stroke - cancels out to some degree the tensile force from the piston/rod moving upward)
So I vs H is really to which extent the rod is likely to buckle under compression. How does side loading play in (an 'I' rotated 90 degress = H)?
If the goal is to build the lightest yet strongest rod out there ......which design shall be explored by the manfacturer? Is it possible that an 'H' beam rod costs more to manufacture? Not sure.
#17
heres the description on jegs
12-Point ARP 8740 cap screw bolts.
Doweled cap for perfect cap-to-rod alignment resulting in increased strength and longer life.
Pressed or bushed pin.
Lightweight design for more power and quicker RPM's.
Extra clearance for stroker applications.
so i dont kno which bolts it comes with, but it does say it comes with arps.... so i duno. ill prolly invest in some real good arp's if these arent the best
12-Point ARP 8740 cap screw bolts.
Doweled cap for perfect cap-to-rod alignment resulting in increased strength and longer life.
Pressed or bushed pin.
Lightweight design for more power and quicker RPM's.
Extra clearance for stroker applications.
so i dont kno which bolts it comes with, but it does say it comes with arps.... so i duno. ill prolly invest in some real good arp's if these arent the best
#18
I run those, they are the ones that came with my eagles. I think you will be fine at your power levels with any rods. Even the pink GM rods with good bolts would be ok.
You are not making a ton of power and I doubt you are going to spin it to the moon, so don't fret too much.
You are not making a ton of power and I doubt you are going to spin it to the moon, so don't fret too much.
#20
My rods are eagle, but the same bolts - I say they are good enough and have used them in several motors. I think you should plan to build something well, but I don't always buy into the "do it right the first time" When the first time costs 3x more and I probably won't have any issues - I'll do it wrong the first time.
scat vs cola/callies etc type stuff. For what you are doing these will be fine.
scat vs cola/callies etc type stuff. For what you are doing these will be fine.
#21
Yea well i am kinda into that saying, but at the same time im not into, overkilling a build that i only want to net 400 hp or so. I think at this point my set-up is gotta look something like this.
Crank:
a)Stock(polished and ground if needed) <$125
b)Eagle Cast Steel Crank New $190
c)Eagle Forged Crank $660
Rods:
a)SCAT 4340 Forged Pro Stock I-Beam Rods $216
b)SCAT 4340 Forged H-Beam Rods $420
Pistons:
a)Wiseco Forged Dished Pistons +15cc $602
b)Wiseco PT007H3 Forged Dished Pistons +20cc $621
Option C.B.AorB Is top in qaulity estimated cost of $1700
or ill go with a moderate level of qaulity with B.B.AorB at $1220
or the lowest, cheapest, best quited for my build A.A.AorB for a cost of $950
the pistons im still debating on which kit to go with because i dont know exaclty where i need my compression to be at when its running so ill decide thati nthe next week or so.
Crank:
a)Stock(polished and ground if needed) <$125
b)Eagle Cast Steel Crank New $190
c)Eagle Forged Crank $660
Rods:
a)SCAT 4340 Forged Pro Stock I-Beam Rods $216
b)SCAT 4340 Forged H-Beam Rods $420
Pistons:
a)Wiseco Forged Dished Pistons +15cc $602
b)Wiseco PT007H3 Forged Dished Pistons +20cc $621
Option C.B.AorB Is top in qaulity estimated cost of $1700
or ill go with a moderate level of qaulity with B.B.AorB at $1220
or the lowest, cheapest, best quited for my build A.A.AorB for a cost of $950
the pistons im still debating on which kit to go with because i dont know exaclty where i need my compression to be at when its running so ill decide thati nthe next week or so.
#22
I honestly think any of those would be fine with your setup. I even think stock rods would be fine, but then that old argument comes into play. Having them checked out and cleaned up will cost almost as much as some of the other rods out there.
My bottom end started as -5cc srp pistons, h beam eagles, forged eagle crank and I got the whole kit cheap. When I went boost I swapped the pisons for -24cc srps.
My bottom end started as -5cc srp pistons, h beam eagles, forged eagle crank and I got the whole kit cheap. When I went boost I swapped the pisons for -24cc srps.
#23
you must have had some hollow heads then if your going -ccs if you kept a low compression
and yea like i said, after all the research ive done all those options are possibilites for me, it just depends on how much i wanna have as insurance/build room for any future things i might throw at the car. and the stock rods, i figure about 200 getting them checked, cleaned and putting arps in and thats almost as much as the Forged I beams. lol. so yea. cost is the same, strength id say quite a big difference
and yea like i said, after all the research ive done all those options are possibilites for me, it just depends on how much i wanna have as insurance/build room for any future things i might throw at the car. and the stock rods, i figure about 200 getting them checked, cleaned and putting arps in and thats almost as much as the Forged I beams. lol. so yea. cost is the same, strength id say quite a big difference
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