car looses power at 5000 rpm after installing procharger
I have autolite 104's gapped at .038, MSD 6A. I just bought a fuel press. guage and have not used it yet, I will try it when it stops raining.What should the fuel press. be at on idle and at full throttle? I also hear a popping sound when the car is cold at idle and goes away when it reaches normal operating temp.
When I got my paxton on my z, it was petering out at 3500 rpm's. I put an fmu in, larger injectors and cranked the fuel psi up to 55psi. That did help, but not much. So I rigged an aux. fuel pump inline, grounded it to the hobbs switch which ran to a 30amp relay,,,,, then made a bypass with a check valve that ran just around the aux fuel pump. Under normal conditions, the unit stayed off and fuel flowed around the second fuel pump. When I went into boost, the hobbs switch gounds and gives me additional fuel psi. While the aux. fuel pump is activated, the check valve is in the bypass and keeps fuel from going towards the back of the tank in the system. That took care of my problem.
looses power at 5000rpm under wot only
Anyway my car with a blower didnt pull anymore after 5K. Is this done on the dyno where you see a drop in power? If your still using your factory cam, springs, etc your cam could be done or your valves are starting to float.
Anyway my car with a blower didnt pull anymore after 5K. Is this done on the dyno where you see a drop in power? If your still using your factory cam, springs, etc your cam could be done or your valves are starting to float.
Sleeperz has a great point! What are the cam spec's? That will give you your rpm range, not the blower / boost! For example, say your cam is a zz4. rpm range is about 5K. Now if you have a cam such as teh hot cam or a cam larger such as @ .050 230/230 or larger, then you should expect higher rpms! So the magic question is; what are your prameters,,,,,,setup and spec's??????


