Hey foks, I recently bought a 94 Z28 from a good friend and member here, Ryan (Ryan's LT1) and love the car. Great power, lots of torque, and a great overall seat of the pants feel to it, but being the horsepower-hungry SOB that I am, I'm already considering adding a forced induction setup to my car.

I've got a ProCharger D-1SC non-intercooled, blow-through setup on my Chevelle and a ProCharger P-1SC intercooled and nitrous-chilled setup on my '05 Mustang, so I've got a fair bit of prior experience with these blowers. I love them and swear by them, even though they're noisy as hell (which I actually have come to love.) So naturally I'm thinking about going with ATI for my Camaro too.

Here's my hangup. The motor runs strong, doesn't smoke and never complains when I beat on it, but it does have 108K on the clock, so I have some concern over doing anything too extreme to it.

I don't see myself putting more than 4-6psi into this motor anyway, but I have been throwing around the idea of slowly building up an LT1 shortblock with intent to boost up to 14-20psi. I've got forged internals in my Chevelle and love the peace of mind they give me whenever I get the urge to stand on the throttle, so I want to do something similar for the Camaro. I'd like to see a minimum of 500rwhp out of the built motor.

So, can a factory LT1 with just over 100K miles handle a low-boost, intercooled ProCharger? How prone are these motors to blowing up under pressure?

Also, does anyone have any suggestions on how to build a boosted LT1? Is the Lloyd Elliot head/cam package still an option in this case, if combined with dished pistons? How much dough does it take to put together an LT1 normally? I hear it's actually pretty budget friendly.

Any and all opinions and info are much appreciated.

Kris Horton

 

The lt1 is no different than any other smallblcok just it has reverse flow cooling. The stock LT1 hates boost, but a lot of poeple get away with boosting it 6-8 psi for a long time and others the motor gives up.

As for build up of one, it is no different tha a smallblock. If you want a budget setup i would do a full forged Eagle rotating assembly. People have been using these up to 1000 hp and having good luck. And they are very affordable.

You can use a LE package but just make sure not to shave down the heads (upping compression) and get a blower type of cam. for what kidna of boost levels you are pushing a 8.7/1 compression would be fine. But what compression you go with is almost a preferance. A lot of people say not to go below 9/1. Im going with 8.5/1.

 

Excellent info, thanks! We went with 8.5:1 on the Chevelle and run 91 octane, which is ideal for me.

I don't think I'll be putting a blower on the current motor afterall. I'm just going to appreciate that it's a solid daily driver right now and not risk damaging it.

Where can I get a good shortbock? I did a search for an LT1 shortblock and found a 383 shortblock with forged rods, pistons, and crank for $3500, but I'd like to find something cheaper.

Kris

 

Try Victory Racing Engines, they are a sponsor here and do really good work. Give Nick a call and see what he can do for you.

 

Thanks, I will check them out! Also, when shopping for a shortblock, is there anything to consider because I live in CA and we have smog laws? Or will any shortblock work?

 

When you're in CA all bets are off. I'm not very familiar with all the laws there, but from what I understand you are going to have to make it look stock as possible and all the parts you bolt on to it will have to have a C.A.R.B. number for them to pass.

You may be able to go with a 383 shortblock or similar overborestroke, but the trick will be making it pass the sniffer. Wild cams and similar stuff I'm pretty sure aren't going to fly there.

 

Thanks for the recommendation 95 Z/28 LT1

KrisH
We have a variety of short block packages to choose from, and welcome the opportunity to speak with you more indepth about your project.

 

Sorry to change the subject, but Kris, you do some excellent work on the renderings of cars. I look at the pics and I swear you could open the door and climb in and go for a drive. That Chevelle of yours is absolutley beautiful.

Bryan

 

Haha, thanks Bryan, I try my best to make my artwork fool people into thinking the car already exists.

Eric,

I will have to give you guys a call. I'm VERY interested in doing this. I won't be dropping any money for a few months still, but I want to be well-informed and decided when I finally do. It looks like I may very well go with you guys for the shortblock. I will have to give you a call!

Thanks for the responses!

Kris

 

Kris,
Looking forward to hearing from ya. If you have any questions don't hestitate to drop us a pm or email.

 

FYI, if ya want below 9.3:1 the you will have to step up to either TFS or AFr heads with the bigger cc chambers. Stock heads only allow for ~56cc combustion chambers. I went with 64cc AFR210 heads + -31cc pistons = ~8.5:1 with correct gaskets.

 

I'm in SoCal and had a local guy build me a KILLER 383 LT1 with all the bells and whistles for a VERY competitve price. He knows his stuff and currently builds motors for the TV show Overhaulin'. I hope to have some dyno numbers by the end of summer. If you're interested let me know.

-B

 

For an LT1, stock chamber size is about 54cc but you can open the chambers up quite a bit more than 56cc.

 

I would also suggest a local machine shop to handle your motor because there will be about a dozen or so mishaps that will set back your rebuild...so its kind of important to be able to talk to someone in person and/or drop off parts locally. My rebuild was set back almost 2 months due to poor quality control issues at large well known manufactures that have been around for years!

-B

 

The reputable vendors I have emailed on this site dont do much more than 56cc on stock castings... perhaps others will try and get more.