This winter, im planning on having my tranny rebuilt, and im going to toss in a 3000 vig and a tranny cooler too. Im trying to cut back on costs, so it would be best for me to pull it myself.

I've been thinking about how the engine is going to be supported once the transmission is out. Isn't it going to lean back or forward? If i was pulling it myself, i would do it at my fathers work. But during weekdays, the car would have to be moved outside and sit in the parking lot so its not in the way.

1. How would i go about supporting the engine once the tranny is out?
2. can the car be moved around after that, or should it be stationary?
3. How high does the car have to be to accually get the tranny out? (jackstands) no access to lift

Thats all i can think of right now because its bedtime for me.

 

1. The engine will want to tilt backwards. Just put another jack stand under the pan towards the back. It does not take much to support it, it hardly tilts back.

2. You can push it around freely, just don't have the driveshaft dragging.

3. Give yourself a good 1.5' to 2' off the ground to get it completely out from under the car. I did this on jackstands and my back too.

 

the engines tendency to lean back will actually help you in removing 2 of the tranny bolts and will help you in removing the tranny entirely

you dont need to support the engine, but if there car is going to sit without a tranny for a while then throw a jackstand underthere

if your doing this on the floor with jackstands then you want to jack the car up as high as possible, preferably to the highest limit of the jackstands

 

how in the hell do i do that? The most ive brought it up before was maybe 3 or 4 notches doing the headers.

 

IF you have some old steel wheels put those under the wheels and you will have plenty of room. jackstands will work but its a little harder to do.

 

Where do all you jack the car up from. I always get worried when I'm doing it that i may not be doing it in the correct spot.

 

You can use the crossmember in the front to jack the car up, or the rear differential housing.

A friend and I used cinder blocks under the wheels to get his chevelle high enough to get his th350 out of there.



Also, REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP! If you dont, you risk breaking it clean off againts the firewall when the motor tilts backwards.

 

are you talking about the opti? I dont see how that can break off.

 

Sorry, I've got a 3rd gen, with your standard shaft-type distributor. I post on thirdgen.org all the time and I forget that when I come here, there are 4th genners too, lol.

 

Get yourself a LONG extension and a swivel socket to get at those upper bellhousing bolts .

 

There is an oil pressure sensor on the back of the intake manifold on some 94's that you MUST worry about hitting the firewall. Its plastic, and if you tilt on the engine too much, it will snap it off.

 

i see... any way i can wedge a 2x4 up in there so the engine doesnt hit the firewall?

 

That could work I suppose. Never heard of anyone doing it, but as long as theres nothing in the way to snap off, I say go for it.