My car is making 290hp and 315 ft/lbs of torque and is a manual. Am I anywhere near the power that could shred a rear end? I am contemplating throwing a set of 4.10s on my car but I don't want to bother if I will need a stronger rear anytime soon. Does anything like girdles actually help?

 

A bone stock car could destroy a stock rear end.... you just have to go with it and hope it holds... My car made about 400rwhp and 480fltq on the kit, my stock rear w/3.73's held up just fine. Many 1.7-1.8 short times aswell.

 

I think the 10 bolts is stronger then people make it out to be. I wouldn't want to put TO much on it but I think it can handle those 4.10s. If it does go just replace the axles and it'll be nice and strong.

 

It's not how much power you're making, it's how hard you're launching. Take a good grabby clutch and a set of slicks and do a 5K dump on a stock motor and rear, and the rear is going to wave bye bye.

Didn't cartek put that 98 WS6 into the upper 10's on a stock rear?

 

I don't know much about rear ends, is that generally the problem then when they let go? I am generally getting 2.0-2.1 60 fts at the track. I just don't want to spend 500 bucks on some gears and have the rear let lose and then have to buy a whole new rear and my money would be wasted.

 

im running et streets and im dumping the clutch at 3500 rpms and have 4.10s. no problems as of yet.

 

Key phrase there my friend.......

 

I cutting short times in the 1.40's (lifting the front wheels 6") with no problems on a stock 10 bolt (3.23 gears)

 

I don't think the axles are usually the problem with the 10-bolts. I think its the ring gear that usually breaks(looses teeth). I do, however, know of a lot of people that are in 10's with the 10-bolt, and like the previous post, he's pulling the front-end 6 inches that's gotta say something! I've got some faith in the lil' ole' 10-bolt.

 

All I can say is WOW! Being the owner of three broke rearends and not even running the times you are. Some people are just lucky I guess.

BTW mine is even a automatic no transbrake.

 

The best protection you can give your 10 bolt is to get a t/a aluminum rear cover or similar type. These rear covers have bolts that can be tightened on the outside of the cover, and have pads that will sit on the main caps of the rear. What generally gernades the 10 bolt rears is main cap deflection (due to immense torque and power) which causes misalingment of the gears which causes breakage. The aluminum rear cover with these bolts helps reduce this main cap deflection. If you are worried about your rear, have someone professionally setup your 4.10's add a quality posi and a rear cover that I mentioned. No guarantees, but I believe you will greatly improve the strength and longevity of your 10 bolt. I am getting ready to do this to mine. One other note is that when you look at the 12 bolts or even the mustang 8.8's they all recommend using the aluminum rear covers with the bolts. Additionally this cover has a drain plug and filler plug, so you don't have to remove the cover to change fluid.

HTH

 

I've pulled quite a few 1.7's and I'm not worried. Nothing but a good posi, good gears, and a solid pinion spacer. If those covers wern't like 120 bucks i would definately have one of those too.

 

My black Z autotragic was on its 2nd 10 bolt with street tires when I bought it, and in the green machine with a 6spd I'm on something like my 2-3rd 10 bolt this year. its hard to keep track because stuff comes and goes out of it as if it was my gas tank. I have used 3.42 and 3.73, brand new posi's, low mileage and new parts, the TA cover has been on the whole time, zero gear whine, backlash and pinion angle set perfectly, fluid changes, nothing more than a drag radial put on it.

I run 11s with it and put it threw hell no doubt, but not for very long, maybe 5-10 races tops. these things are **** poor overall even when upgraded. If you can see yourself getting a 12 bolt any time soon, make the move. I would never have used one for so long if i didnt keep getting cheap quick replacement parts and rears (I have my 12 bolt in the car now). You add in the price of gears, posi, cover, axles, labor?, plus the $ you might make passing your still-in-1-piece-for-now 10 bolt on to the next guy in need, and you have half the cost right there.

Some guys pull off crazy stunts like the ones in this thread running 10s lifting the wheels, but for every one of them there are 100 that have a 10 bolt graveyard, especially if you have a 6 speed.

/ end vent mode as I just worked on a 10 and 12 bolt today

 

I busted the better torsion posi in half when my car was stock. I think the M6 guys have more rear problems than the A4 guys. I put my auto through hell and never had problems. My camaro has 4.10's and a auburn pro and has never had a problem since. Of course it will break tomorrow.

 

The auto trans doesn't shock the rear as hard as a M6 unless it has a trans brake, that's why the guys with autos usually don't have rear end problems.

I wouldn't waste any time or money on the stock rear save up for a 9" or 12 bolt.

I had another 97 SS M6 which I broke 2 sets of Richmond 4.10s and I had a T/A girdle on it and after the second set broke and took the Torsen diff with it, I spent about $1100 on a Detroit C-locker, Motive 4.10's & install kit, Billet rear caps & Moser forged axles and eventually it would have broken also once enough power & traction would have been applied. These stock rears are weak and the parts too small to sustain any serious power, that's why this time I'm not going to spend a dime on the stock rear, I'm saving for a Moser 9".