Has anyone ever built a clutch pedal stopper?
#1
Has anyone ever built a clutch pedal stopper?
My new clutch engage/disengage point is now very high off the floor. Another way of saying it is 75% of the clutch pedal travel is totally dead area and makes working the clutch tricky.
I want to build an adjustable clutch pedal stop that will limit how far to the floor the clutch pedal will travel. I am going t get am going to get some scrap metal and fab up a bracket and bolt it to the u-bolts that capture the master cylinder.
Although it might do the same thing, I don't want the adjustable master since that will move the pedals resting position closer to the floor. Plus that thing is expensive.
I would like to decrease my clutch pedal dead area travel by 30%-50% or so. Has anyone done this or would like to comment?
I want to build an adjustable clutch pedal stop that will limit how far to the floor the clutch pedal will travel. I am going t get am going to get some scrap metal and fab up a bracket and bolt it to the u-bolts that capture the master cylinder.
Although it might do the same thing, I don't want the adjustable master since that will move the pedals resting position closer to the floor. Plus that thing is expensive.
I would like to decrease my clutch pedal dead area travel by 30%-50% or so. Has anyone done this or would like to comment?
#2
Update:
Well I just could not wait any longer on you guys.
I built a direct bolt-on clutch pedal stop today out of scrap metal, it is secured to the u-bolt that secures the clutch master cylinder with no mods made to the car at all. It is adjustable so I can fine tune it exactly the way I want it. When the pedal is pushed all the way down it stops dead solid just like an aftermarket short throw shifter hitting the stops.
The movement of the clutch pedal is now very short and made driving my new clutch much easier. The dead area where the clutch is disengaged is now gone. I think I have shortened the clutch pedal throw by at least 70%.
The overall experience is very much like what it feels like when you install a short throw shifter. Obvious GM needs to have lots of pedal movement for easy to drive mushy clutches when they build the car, this new setup feels much better with my fast engaging Spec 3+ (non mushy) clutch disk. It was certainly worth the 5 hours of engineering, fitting, re-fitting & build time.
Here are some pics of the mod:
I have cut the distance my clutch pedal travels by at least 50% and man it feels friggin awesome.
Well I just could not wait any longer on you guys.
I built a direct bolt-on clutch pedal stop today out of scrap metal, it is secured to the u-bolt that secures the clutch master cylinder with no mods made to the car at all. It is adjustable so I can fine tune it exactly the way I want it. When the pedal is pushed all the way down it stops dead solid just like an aftermarket short throw shifter hitting the stops.
The movement of the clutch pedal is now very short and made driving my new clutch much easier. The dead area where the clutch is disengaged is now gone. I think I have shortened the clutch pedal throw by at least 70%.
The overall experience is very much like what it feels like when you install a short throw shifter. Obvious GM needs to have lots of pedal movement for easy to drive mushy clutches when they build the car, this new setup feels much better with my fast engaging Spec 3+ (non mushy) clutch disk. It was certainly worth the 5 hours of engineering, fitting, re-fitting & build time.
Here are some pics of the mod:
I have cut the distance my clutch pedal travels by at least 50% and man it feels friggin awesome.
Last edited by wrd1972; 04-25-2009 at 07:18 PM.
#3
Nice piece, looks good .
It is very common to have an adjustable clutch pedal stop in a drag car.
As long as you have enough air gap. Air gap is the space measured between the disc and the flywheel or PP with the clutch depressed.
Different manufactures have different spec for the air gap. My sintered iron discs, need a .050 air gap, and unfortunately thats about 1/2 a pedal of travel on my old 1st gen Camaro.
Hopefully you can call your manufacturer and get the spec. Then adjust the stop to that.
I have a 1" hole in the bottom of my bell, so I can check this when I make changes. see pic.
---Bill.
It is very common to have an adjustable clutch pedal stop in a drag car.
As long as you have enough air gap. Air gap is the space measured between the disc and the flywheel or PP with the clutch depressed.
Different manufactures have different spec for the air gap. My sintered iron discs, need a .050 air gap, and unfortunately thats about 1/2 a pedal of travel on my old 1st gen Camaro.
Hopefully you can call your manufacturer and get the spec. Then adjust the stop to that.
I have a 1" hole in the bottom of my bell, so I can check this when I make changes. see pic.
---Bill.
#4
Regarding the "air gap", you raised an excellent point.
I dont have an easy way of measuring this, although through research the Valeo pull type clutch has a very tight air gap.
What I have done is raised the rear off the ground, have someone push the clutch in and listen for clutch disk drag. When drag is present you can clearly hear it with the metalic Spec 3+ disk. I still have the pedal sitting a couple inches lower towards the floor than the "drag point" as described above. I am hoping that this is adequate.
I assume the air gap is used to ensure there is absolute minimal disk to flywheel contact when the clutch is disengaged to reduce heat build up, wear and glazing.
Again it is hard as hell to drive without the stopper cause you are always hunting for the sweet spot and having it engage too fast.
I dont have an easy way of measuring this, although through research the Valeo pull type clutch has a very tight air gap.
What I have done is raised the rear off the ground, have someone push the clutch in and listen for clutch disk drag. When drag is present you can clearly hear it with the metalic Spec 3+ disk. I still have the pedal sitting a couple inches lower towards the floor than the "drag point" as described above. I am hoping that this is adequate.
I assume the air gap is used to ensure there is absolute minimal disk to flywheel contact when the clutch is disengaged to reduce heat build up, wear and glazing.
Again it is hard as hell to drive without the stopper cause you are always hunting for the sweet spot and having it engage too fast.
#8
Bump by request and yes I have a few more left. The stopper is a direct bolt requiring no mods to the car. It can be installed and adjusted in less than 10 minutes.
Last edited by wrd1972; 04-25-2009 at 06:16 PM.
#9
Re: Has anyone ever built a clutch pedal stopper?
wrd1972 - what car are you putting that mod part you made, in?
I have the same issue with my 73 Camaro that I recently did a conversion to and Hydraulics engage in the fist 20% - 30% of pedal leaving the rest of the pedal travel worthless. Make it a pain to stop and go drive especially on hills.
Thanks
I have the same issue with my 73 Camaro that I recently did a conversion to and Hydraulics engage in the fist 20% - 30% of pedal leaving the rest of the pedal travel worthless. Make it a pain to stop and go drive especially on hills.
Thanks
#10
Re: Has anyone ever built a clutch pedal stopper?
"wrd1972" has not signed into this site since February 2017. The photo and his mention of the Valeo "pull" type clutch would appear to indicate he had a 1993-1997 LT1 V8 T56 trans Camaro or Firebird.
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