Well, after 14 years and 107k miles of service, I think my stock clutch is ready for retirement. While it still holds just fine, I can no longer shift into reverse, and shifts into the synchronized forward gears are met with resistance and the feeling of spinning shafts vibrating through the shifter. Basically, it feels as though the clutch is not fully releasing when the pedal is on the floor, so I think my pressure plate / throwout bearing are done.

(Plus, I badly slipped the clutch for a few seconds many years ago when I tried to get some wheelspin (and thought that I WAS getting wheelspin, ) on a sticky road. I freaked out after smelling hot clutch material, but it has never once slipped during use, even during my one trip / 4 passes on the drag strip. It has, however, tended to chatter just a little upon engagement, and has really just not felt OEM "smooth" since then.)

At this point, I plan to replace with a stock OEM-style clutch. I've been scanning the sticky thread about clutch options. Autozone in my town shows both the Duralast house brand and a Luk brand matched clutch sets for $159.99. My car is (and will remain) stock in the power department, so I see no reason to go beefier.

Anyway, I'm trying to sort out what all I'll need for the job. I should have access to a friend's car lift and, I hope, a transmission jack. Here's what I'm thinking so far:

New clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout/release bearing, alignment tool, pilot bushing). Sounds like the Duralast units work fine for stock engines, according to posts in the sticky thread. Didn't see much about the Luk kit.
Flywheel resurfacing or replacement What do shops normally charge for this service? Autozone has new/reman flywheels for $60+ core, so if someone wants $100 to machine mine, I might as well install a new / already resurfaced unit.
Rear Main Seal Might as well spend the $20.00 since I'll be in there. I think mine is actually leaking a bit, but I plan to replace regardless.
Trans Mount? Original owner of my car told me he'd replaced the stock mount with a harder (poly?) mount not long after he got the car to "firm things up." I, however, don't care for the extra vibration I feel through the shifter, so I'm considering going back to the stock rubber mount while I have the car up and the mount removed.
Clutch Hydraulic Fluid
Trans Fluid

I might also need some extra extensions to reach the flywheel housing bolts. Can you get to all of them from under the car? Is it easier / possible to get the top bolts from the hole in the floor with the shifter removed?

Any special tips / tricks / things to watch out for when doing this? As I mentioned, this is my first clutch replacement ( ), so I want to make sure I don't overlook something.

TIA

 

Dang, this place just doesn't get the traffic that it did back when it was all "LT1 Tech" or whatever.

 

Maybe I should post this in the lounge...

 

Changing a clutch is not a big deal. Sounds like you got it covered.

 

When I pull my trans I seperate the trans from the bellhousing- It seems to be a little easier that way since you messing with such a large object trying to get it out. Plus its easier to get to the top of the actual transmission than the bellhousing. Once transmission is out you can easily get to the pesky bolts at the top.

Take out the tranny cross member and use a jack to lower everything to get at the top bolts- if you don't have a trans adapter for your jack its not a big deal- you can accomplish the same thing with a ratchet strap. Also when pulling the tranny out make sure its back up level and you are pulling it straight back and not trying to pull down- you will be working against your motor mounts and putting a lot of strain on the input shaft.

Just take your time and make sure you unplug all the wiring- I would also loosen up the drain and let some of the fluid out so when you pull the driveshaft you aren't getting a big mess. And since you will be messing with the driveshaft might want to consider throwing in a new U-joint if it hasn't been replaced recently.

Don't let it intimidate you- just takes time and patience..

 

Thanks for the advice, Procharged94! Much appreciated.

 

When I replaced my rear main seal I stopped by Home Depot and matched up the seal with the right size PVC tubing to make an installation tool. I cut the tubing to about 4 " and got a metal plate to act as a surface to tap the seal into place using the tubing.