Well, it seems I didn't have the fork fully seated onto the throwout bearing and is now stuck (see picture). How do I get it back out? I've tried getting a screwdriver in there, but that isn't working.

It is engaged with the TO bearing, as the clutch is disengaged at this point. Would unbolting the tranny from the bellhousing give enough play to free it?

http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y28...ClutchFork.jpg

 

Well, I finally had some time to work on this and I got the tranny unbolted from the bellhousing. The tranny won't budge a lick.

So, I'm gonna unbolt the bellhousing and see if it will try and move, but I got to remove the pass. header first, so I can get it tilted down far enough for that one driver side bolt.

By doing this, it's going to cause all the force to be on the pressure plate fingers to dislodge it - that's probably not good.

If anyone has anything to add that could help me - I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.

 

looks like a nice problem you have there.

never had it myself but off the top of my head im guessing that you have a TO bearing that is the 4 walled kind as opposed to the circular (i had both on mine judging from my last clutch swap)

if i were you i would back out the trans and bellhousing and back out the clutch fork retaining bolt until it comes off of there... because it looks like its wedged in there pretty good.

thats my guess though, but ive only swapped the clutch out on mine once so maybe someone that has been down there a couple more times may have a better strategy

 

I'm betting that even once I get the bellhousing unbolted nothing is gonna move still.

 

its probable i guess that it wont, but you will have more room to wrench on it. And BTW the reason you cant move just the tranny is because (god this is all pretty foggy in my head so dont take my word as gospel here) the fulcrum point on that fork is directly connected to the tranny so you are pulling the fork against the TO bearing and in turn wedging the tip of the fork like that... but like i said loosening it all up may be enough to change the geometry enough for it to free itself...

Hopefully this will get you a bump too... and someone who has been down there a couple more times can help you out

and BTW if the pp/ clutch is disengaged (like the clutch pedal is pushed in) that sucker is spring loaded so i would watch your fingers

and if all that doesnt work you may have to get violent with it...

personally my steps
1. loosen that whole area up... all the bolts that you would do in a clutch swap
2. shake it and see if it will move at all... i wouldnt be afraid to get kind of mean on it
3. try a hammer and a large punch or something and hit the end of the fork forward a few times (further disengaging the clutch) and see if the pp fingers will do the work for you... and id bet they have more leverage and strength than you probably have in this situation

and make sure to post up what happens im pretty interested to hear what the results are

 

I tried using two screwdrivers to pry it out and that did not work. They both would just bend.

BUT, a crowbar and a screwdriver worked just fine. A big thanks to my brother-in-law for having one to use.

 

I know this is an old thread, but the photo above is exactly what I'm facing after putting my trans back together completely stock.

My fork isn't wedged in there as in the photo, but if I assemble it as-is, it WILL be. The fork won't go completely onto the TO bearing. I'm assuming the center of the clutch fork pivot dimple should be in line with the centers of the clutch cylinder bolts?

Anyway, above the gentleman mentions the '4-sided' TO bearing... is this the problem, I can't see it now and I can't remember what it looks like. Is the TO bearing rotated in the incorrect position, so the fork isn't going over the part of the bearing it's supposed to?

It's royally pissing me off. All I have left to do is the clutch fork, exhaust, and drive shaft and it's key-turnin time after 9 months without the car...

 

Yeah I fought that for about 2 hours before I finally got enough light in there, and was able to reach in with a long skinny screwdriver and rotate the '4-sided TO bearing' so that the forks went around it properly. Just a heads up if you have this type instead of the roundy one...