making my street car hook on the track
#1
making my street car hook on the track
whats up guys...
have a interesting task, need to be able to cut 1.7/1.8 60fts with my car. here's what were dealing with
95 z, m6
strano spings
koni 4/4
BMR re location brackets
BMR panhard, double adj.
BMR tubular LCA poly/poly
10 bolt- w/3.73
295/35/18 BFG KDW 2's
stereo ( not too heavy)
major weight loss
fiberglass hood, !cat,!AIR,!EGR,!oil cooler,!windshield washer res,!horns,!fog lights + mounts,!coolant overflow res, !front bumper support, !misc. front clip items, spare + jack.
had the car at 3190 before about 35-40lb of weight loss. to date the best 60ft is 1.94. I had the rear shocks full loose (did very little), tires @ 19psi, no front sway bar, decent launch.
Now how can i get it to hook without spending 500 bux and messing with what i already have......was considering summit rear drag shocks?? would swap them in before track days...the rears are easy in, easy out?? would this help me much??
or buying a set of steel rims for summit & pickup a set of 295/60/15's. but im worried all that would do is help my break my 10 bolt faster??
I love how the car drives/rides, so suspension changes are not happening unless its just for the track.
have a interesting task, need to be able to cut 1.7/1.8 60fts with my car. here's what were dealing with
95 z, m6
strano spings
koni 4/4
BMR re location brackets
BMR panhard, double adj.
BMR tubular LCA poly/poly
10 bolt- w/3.73
295/35/18 BFG KDW 2's
stereo ( not too heavy)
major weight loss
fiberglass hood, !cat,!AIR,!EGR,!oil cooler,!windshield washer res,!horns,!fog lights + mounts,!coolant overflow res, !front bumper support, !misc. front clip items, spare + jack.
had the car at 3190 before about 35-40lb of weight loss. to date the best 60ft is 1.94. I had the rear shocks full loose (did very little), tires @ 19psi, no front sway bar, decent launch.
Now how can i get it to hook without spending 500 bux and messing with what i already have......was considering summit rear drag shocks?? would swap them in before track days...the rears are easy in, easy out?? would this help me much??
or buying a set of steel rims for summit & pickup a set of 295/60/15's. but im worried all that would do is help my break my 10 bolt faster??
I love how the car drives/rides, so suspension changes are not happening unless its just for the track.
#2
Re: making my street car hook on the track
What is your car doing now,bogging,blowing the tire off.
In my opinion the soft drag shocks don't help that much you are just dissepating your power.
18s aren't that great for launching.
I had less than you have and with drag radial I was getting 1.76 1.78 just slipping the clutch right.
(I think I had lt4 cam and lightly ported heads so I think my times don't apply)
In my opinion the soft drag shocks don't help that much you are just dissepating your power.
18s aren't that great for launching.
I had less than you have and with drag radial I was getting 1.76 1.78 just slipping the clutch right.
(I think I had lt4 cam and lightly ported heads so I think my times don't apply)
Last edited by timelord; 04-12-2012 at 10:26 AM.
#3
Re: making my street car hook on the track
I just looked at a time slip from 1998 when my car had drag radials, short throw shifter, 1 5/8 headers, and cold air. The sixty foot was 1.97.
The first thing you need is traction. The second thing you need are the appropriate tires. The quicker your sixty foot times are, the more stress you will put on the rear end. There is no way completely around that situation.
A taller tire and smaller wheel will generally add more flex to the sidewall at launch. More flex will reduce shock. Shock is a larger killer of rears than flex at an entry level.
I could generally get several hundred passes out of a rear before it would let go. Once I got tired or breaking stuff I got a 12 bolt.
I also have a hunch you have too little air in your rear tires and they are cupping at the launch. With regular street tires I had the best luck between 26-28 pounds. The goal is to have the tread evenly flat across the entire surface on launch. Too little air will reduce the footprint in the center. Maybe you can find some concrete and test out different tire pressure settings? The goal is to create patch marks that are even in terms of darkness all the way across.
The first thing you need is traction. The second thing you need are the appropriate tires. The quicker your sixty foot times are, the more stress you will put on the rear end. There is no way completely around that situation.
A taller tire and smaller wheel will generally add more flex to the sidewall at launch. More flex will reduce shock. Shock is a larger killer of rears than flex at an entry level.
I could generally get several hundred passes out of a rear before it would let go. Once I got tired or breaking stuff I got a 12 bolt.
I also have a hunch you have too little air in your rear tires and they are cupping at the launch. With regular street tires I had the best luck between 26-28 pounds. The goal is to have the tread evenly flat across the entire surface on launch. Too little air will reduce the footprint in the center. Maybe you can find some concrete and test out different tire pressure settings? The goal is to create patch marks that are even in terms of darkness all the way across.
Last edited by TedH; 04-12-2012 at 10:06 AM.
#4
Re: making my street car hook on the track
spins or bogs. 1 of the 2 at the moment.
The motor is built for a 200-250 hit also. forged everything, splayed main caps, loose ring gap, etc etc but i cant afford a good setup and would like to get the car to semi hook and produce decent times before i slap on 200 more HP and 300 more TQ.
The motor is built for a 200-250 hit also. forged everything, splayed main caps, loose ring gap, etc etc but i cant afford a good setup and would like to get the car to semi hook and produce decent times before i slap on 200 more HP and 300 more TQ.
Last edited by slomarao; 04-12-2012 at 01:24 PM.
#5
Re: making my street car hook on the track
ive tried 18-28psi in the tires. not much differences. I am aware of drag racing techniques....where you want sidewall on the tire so it can crunch up and still hook. I know my tire pressure for street tires should be 20-28psi, DR"s 16-22psi, etc etc....so i have a solid traction - the tire lays flat and true to the pavement.
i know my 10 bolt wont hold much, it was rebuilt with a eaton diff, etc tho.
So i am looking for more advanced advice. I will not be buying a rear end anytime soon..prolly not even DR's, i just want to get the car to turn the best times it can in its current form.
i know my 10 bolt wont hold much, it was rebuilt with a eaton diff, etc tho.
So i am looking for more advanced advice. I will not be buying a rear end anytime soon..prolly not even DR's, i just want to get the car to turn the best times it can in its current form.
Last edited by slomarao; 04-12-2012 at 01:23 PM.
#6
Re: making my street car hook on the track
I found that stiffer shocks in the rear and loose shocks in the front greatly helped with weight transfer. Then I had a bit of wheel hop so an airbag for the passenger rear was installed and the wheel hop went away.
#7
Re: making my street car hook on the track
yea, the only way i can do that for my car is full tight on the rear koni's and drop the fron sway.
#10
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