Z-RATED94

Was that the Cummins or the Powerstroke?

Bersaglieri

The Cummins would probably out 60 both right now


-Dustin-

BMoney

my car is 60' a 1.42 on motor with all stock springs and shocks. Im hoping for some 1.2's on the hose. I have the wolfe anti roll bar in the back and a adjustable torque arm, adjustable control arms. everything is stock up front except I removed the sway bar up front.

00ls100

I'm surprises no one has said Koni shocks yet. ( unless I missed it??)

considering it's a street and track car...

got koni's on my ws6 great shocks.

slomarao

Koni's are for the streets/ road racing/ autocross. They are not a good drag shock.

Trust me im on them and strano springs.

Bersaglieri

This is back on the table. I have the 24mm 3rd Gen bar sitting here I was going to use with an airbag to keep street manners [4k miles a year]. Although I was thinking of picking up a Spohn drag bar or something similar to nail the 60's. On the other hand a tubular K member would be nice for shaving some weight and having better access to the engine bay. Plus the engine is currently out so it would be that much easier to swap.

Let's hear it:

A. Ditch 24mm Rear Sway/Airbag for Spohn Anti-sway bar. Use stock K member.
B. Keep 24mm Rear Sway/Airbag and get a Tubular K-member
C. Spend Money elsewhere [Insert suggestion here]

-Dustin-

AL SS590 M6

option ''b'' works well for me.

Bersaglieri

Well after reading up on stuff most of the night it seems like I should try the 24mm bar and airbags first, then go to the anti-roll drag bar if necessary. The benefits from a K-member happen on any car, but the "right" suspension for drag racing varies depending on the car, tires, track, converter, etc. So, a drag style sway bar is not a end all answer for everyone. Not to mention street use means I'd have to loosen or remove the endlinks for driveability.

Next, when should I start to consider adjustable lower control arms and/or relocation brackets? On that note, why are folks using rod ends vs poly bushings on LCA's?

I'm thinking front QA1 style shocks should be on my wish list also...

-Dustin-

slowride94z

I went ahead and did the relocation brackets. cheep and easy piece of mind, knowing that the suspension geometry is better if not correct.


I ran into a guy at Rockingham a few years ago and his car was flat leaving. talked with him about the rear suspension and looking at the rear his arms were level.
as mine were pointing toward the ground , from high in the rear to low in the front. after I did this it became hard for me to spin stock tires= 1.80 @ 60'

Bersaglieri

I talked to BMR today since they supposedly know what they are doing They said with my current setup the best money spent would be a drag rear sway bar and some relocation brackets. Then do adjustable lower control arms and cheap rear shocks if I'm on a budget. Then for sure address the front shocks/springs. Just throwing that information on the table.

-Dustin-

1BADAIR

with my stock rear(ws6) sway bar i was lifting the left front tire about 10 inches and was bending left rear wheel studs. I installed a spohn drag bar and now it yanks both about 10 inches or so and havent hurt a stud since. Car is driven every sunny day
I use 325lb on the front(3960 race weight) with qa1 r's and tokico 5 way shocks on the rear with cut stock springs. I used to use lt1 prokit rears but the car works much better with the cut stock springs. best is 1.43 so far

Bersaglieri

Seems like that combo is working pretty good for you.

I just hear a lot of conflicting information, which is why I threw this thread on here. Some folks say ditch any thought of airbags and get a good drag bar back there. Others say airbags will be fine and to concentrate on getting shocks and springs for the front to help weight transfer. I understand they all work together, I am just trying to figure out which to spend the initial money on. It's expensive to go fast no matter what though...

After a few calculations, using the 24mm bar with airbags would cost around $275. Lot's of used Drag Bars out there are going for around $300. So I'll be going that route.

Also what pound springs are you guys using in the front? 275 or 300?

-Dustin-

96SSIndeed

I also have have tokico 5 way on the rear of mine. I don't have any numbers because it hasn't been to the track since i've gotten them, But it dead hooks a 4k launch on the street; thats a cold street in winter with nitto 555's i might add. I can only imagine what it would do at a prepped track.

EDIT: forgot to add that it has stock springs too.

Bersaglieri

Well the motor is done and the transmission is apart, so we started looking at the rear suspension again. I was wondering how much adjustable LCA's were actually utilized in dialing in the rear suspension. If money is better spent on front or rear shocks I'd rather do that.

Also are rod/rod too agressive for a street/strip car? I was thinking about adjustable poly/poly, but then I've seen these derlin plastic ones too...

Currently have:
Spohn Drag Bar
BMR Trak Pack [TQ Arm]
BMR Boxed SFC
Tubular poly/poly LCA's
Relocation brackets
Stock shocks and springs

-Dustin-

slomarao

Tom Cowle (sp) and 1slowformula both run the $40 rear drag shocks. Ive thought about taking out my Koni's in the rear and swaping these in for a day at the track. Not sure if they will really help the weight transfer.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...20shocks&dds=1