slowride94z

In a nut shell,
What can I do to improve on my 60' times? Best 1.576 with, 1.693 without
What do I need to keep in a log book?
How stiff do I need to keep the rear? which is firm
I feel as tho I'm missing something


setup-
free mods + pop rivet
no front sway bar, air conditioning, front bumper support, air pump or egr, spare or jack, haul to the track

battery in the back
air bags in the rear, pass 22 psi drivers at 5psi ( need the extra capacity with two big sons)
adjustable shocks in rear with new springs
new mickey Thompson drag radials 255/50r 16s..18# with nitrous 26# without
front runners skinnys @45 psi+

first nitrous wet kit @100 hp 3000rpm to 6000 rpm Mallory 685@4*
second nitrous wet kit on button @75 hp
Holley booster fuel pump

Random tech adjustable torque arm, lower control arms and relocation brackets, panhard bar, subframe connectors

3.73s, 4000yank, cpt prorace, trans cooler, under drive pulleys, 58mm nos throttle body, kn fipk, pacesetter long tubes with 3" true duals sonic turbo mufflers
car weighs 3600# with me @ 225#
I pull through water burn till good smoke in second, spin forward dry hop,
put in D and watch the last amber, all flash no stall

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=723039


I would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has helped my endeavors.

AL SS590 M6

One question and 2 comments.

Are you spinning?

Skip the dry hop it serves no purpose and can actually strip the warm rubber from your burnout off of the tire.

My PT4200 Yank will net a better 60' the higher that I stall it. If your brakes will hold it, try stalling it up.

slowride94z

I don't have any good videos yet, but it is pulling the front tires @ 2 to 4"

It will turn loose when I hit more than 100 hp off the line

OK on the dry hop ,old bad habit. next time Ill try stalling up.


thanks

Bob Cosby

Log book.....everything that is on the timeslip (obviously), vehicle weight, environmental conditions, time of day, track conditions, and notes on the pass.

For environmental conditions, I log temperature, dew point, air pressure, density altitude (figured from the temp, DP, and pressure), track elevation, wind, and sky conditions (cloudy, sunny, etc). It is important to use the same, quality weather instruments every time. Do not trust the track stuff.

Can't help you with the 60 ft stuff, as I run a stick in a totally different chassis.

Good luck.

Kraest

Better tires and spray the nitrous off the line.

slowride94z

new mt drag radials... and I do spray out of the hole 3000 up to 6000

any way , today 12-6-09 last run at Piedmont . I would have more videos but battery woes in the camera


changes: I went over the car again saturday. added 3 castellations on the torque arm. I'm now going off the sub frame connectors for pinion angle.
found pass shock set way soft. all of the first runs I stalled a little, they had me on the pro tree and I didnt get much of a chance. last run and best, I flashed and stiffened the rear more.


results on a cold day are: best na 60' 1.611 from 1.693 stalling @ 2000 rpm

best na 1/8: 7.994@85.31 with a 1.669 in 60' over 8.029@84.35 with a 1.693 in 60' stalling @ 2000 rpm


no wheels up today

Kraest

You have a wide open throttle switch on the nitrous or a progressive controller? I'm talking about spraying it through the converter ---WOT switch and put the hammer down from the start.

5SPDCHK

Something simple with no changes to the car required... Stage as shallow as possible. I don't know how you stage so you may actually already bump in as shallow as possible but if not, try it. Deep staging hurts ET and 60' times while helping your reaction time.

slowride94z

I shallow stage thanks


wot switch on the throttle. with the 685 keeping it between 3000 and 6000


I hit an extra 75, on a button, last trip to the rock and the car spun out . tried it later after the launch and was rewarded with best of all time.


right now I'm spraying 100 through one nozzle and can go up to 150 on that one. but I want to hit it all from the get go. go or blow


just playing with nitrous, I want the car consistent as hell without.

slowride94z

I have been looking through my tune from pcmforless. and found that my shift points were 1->2 = 5450 2->3 = 5450 3->4 = 5400.
in the kick down mode shift rpm thresholds chart

a stock bin file that I have has the shift points listed a 5344, 5440, and 5344 rpm.

I have been spraying from 3000 to 6000 rpm.

would I benefit from raising or lowering the shift points?


thoughts on this?

Z-RATED94

Shift points might be a little low, but it doesn't matter much with the torque that the nitrous is making. I wouldn't worry about it to much.

slowride94z

I have made two different bin files one with 5500 in the 1-2, 2-3 shift, and 6000 for the 3-4 shift.
and one with 5850 for the all the shifts

thanks

Z-RATED94

Let us know which one works out best for you.