Allright after extensive research I took the initiative and set up my wot shift points. Here's exactly what I did and you can tell me if I'm right, wrong, or just plain crazy.

I set my "kickdown mode up/down shiftpoints" lower than I actually want the car to shift. From what I understand, the tranny has to see two parameters to shift at WOT. It needs to meet both the rpm and mph requirements. Here is the table.
1-2 32
2-3 64
3-4 105
2-1 30
3-2 63
4-3 104

Then I proceeded to edit the "kickdown normal mode shift rpm thresholds" to what I want my shift points to be at.
1-2 6000
2-3 6000
3-4 6000

I also used these same values for the "kickdown hot mode shift rpm thresholds".

As I read other places, I left the "cold shift rpm threshold" table alone. It reads
1-2 7892
2-3 7892
3-4 8192

I cross-referenced these "cold" values w/ a stock program and they were the same so I figured they were like that for a reason.

Is this correct or am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am using tunercat if that helps. Thanks a bunch as usual guys...

 

I'm not sure what you are looking to do, but I can offer my 2 cents.
It needs to meet both the rpm and mph requirements.
You are correct here.
I'm not sure what gears your running. If your running 2.73's or 3.23's and want to adjust by rpm's by setting your mph low, you have that right.
Your down shift mph's will still be used, so keep that in mind.
What RPM do you want the car to shift at?
Remember that the computor always adds a magical 200 to 300 rpm's in 1st, and 300 to 400 in 2nd to your shift point.
So by setting it at 6000 your logging should show shifts around 6200 for 1 to 2 shift, 6300 for 2 to 3.
If your running 3.23's (same as me) you can set your MPH's higher and still be safe on using RPM's as your tool. I have my 1 to 2 at 37 and 2 to 3 at 70. With down shift points 5 mph under this.

Hope this helps.

 

I have heard that setting the rpm much lower for all gears and changing the shift points by mph is more reliable. I always change both kickdown and hot kickdown tables at the same time to the same values.

 

I've actually read the opposite, unless your tuning with a stall that's higher than 3000 rpm and not shifting properly.
You want to base your shifting on engine output, not tire output.
Maybe one of the experts can chime in.
I had problems with consistency with trying to adjust with MPH over RPM's.

 

JAFO...thanks for the help man. I'm running 3.73's w/ a vigi 3000 stall.

If I want my car to shift at 6000 basically, should I set the shift points for 1-2=5800 (to get 6000-6100) and 2-3=5700 (to get 6000-6100)?

Thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it as I'm new to all the tuning stuff.

 

Sounds about right. Might need a little fine tuning though.

 

just set the rpm to 1500 and then set just the mile at whateverspeed you what to shift at but a word of advice if you what it to shift at 50 start at 40 and and see what you got. and if its not right just reprogram it to say 45 and see where your at.

 

That's what I was trying to say. That is how I shift

 

3.73s and yank 3200. Took some testing and ended up with this...


31, 64, and 95 for mph kickdown normal

5635, 5635, and 5575 for rpm kickdown normal

I did the hot mode to match.

Actual shifts are right at or just below 6200rpm on the 1-2 and at 6100 or a tad higher on the 2-3 (diacom verified).

Some day I will get a real tach for the car so I can see what is happening without needing the laptop to capture it.

Guy I also help tweak stuff for had his shift points very similar..... With a SLP 2400 stall it shifted around 5900rpm. but with a 3600 Vig.....it's hitting 6200 like clockwork. And no...the programming wasn't changed.

Both our initial programs were mail order, but trial and testing showed we needed adjustments.