HardcoreRM125

UPDATE - I noticed a slight misfire only really prevalent at idle. The plugs/wires have less than 200 miles on them. None are burned.

So ...

I replaced the Opti. It now runs stronger and smoother. My BLM Split is still getting worse. It no longer is a closed throttle thing and is now prevalent across all cells.

Most recently - I have replaced the distributor, pull & inspect & replace intake gaskets & seal with The Right Stuff, and swap left injectors to right after soaking the pintle end in a quality jet and injector cleaner.

All injectors are ticking. All Ohm out the same. All have 12V source

FWIW - The car ran STRONG until it relearned its Split BLM's.

They are prevalent at all times now though. Idle, Part Throttle, Mid Throttle, WOT ... Its so ****ing frustrating.

To date I have done the following to try to fix it:

-Plugs
-Wires
-Opti
-Intake Manifold Gasket (And used The Right Stuff)
-O2 Sensors
-Closed TB (stock TB) as far as screws allow before blades (clean) stick
-Tested Manifold, TB, and Elbow for vacuum leaks after the MAF

The exhaust gaskets, I can't hear, smell, or see a leak at the flange. At the collectors there are ZERO leaks.

I am absolutely out of ideas!


I may swap to the stock injectors, reflash, and see what happens...?


Can anyone help me? The car ran very strong until it learned its Fuel Trims ... At some points it is the full 108/160 split. Part throttle usually is a 20 split in BLM. The minimum split is at least 8.

I can send anyone my FreeScan CSV datalogs that can be read in Excel.


Joe










EDIT


It never dawned on me. My car is an R-Title car. Bought it totaled and rebuilt it. The guy I got it from gave me a PCM for it. However, I highly doubt its the original. It sets Automatic 3-2 Downshift codes on itself all the time. No SES light. Could that cause something like this? However, PCMforless DID tune it for me for cai, cam, rockers, headers. Never said a word about it being an Auto's computer for a M6 car.