Hey guys.

I've got a 1981 Camaro that I have slowly begun to restore/modify. Right now it has a carbed 350, but I was considering putting an LT1 out of a Camaro or Vette or whatever I can ****** it out of into my car.

I do have a lot of unanswered questions, so if anyone has tried this, please help! Will the LT1 and transmission bolted to it (4LE60, I think they are called) fit without major body modifications?

Also, I know I will need the engine's computer; I do plan to buy the engine, transmission, computer and all the accessories together. Another question I have is gauges.....I doubt seriously I will be able to use my factory gauges (Even though I would really like to....is it possible?) Are there any companies that make digital gauges that would fit in the old Camaro dash and use LT1 sensors?

Dakota Digital doesn't have anything for my application, I checked already.

Anyway, I appreciate your time in reading this, and look forward to what you all have to say. Honestly, if you think an LT1 swap is a bad idea and you think it would be more worth my while to keep the carbed engine, let me know. (I want to run reliable 13's and still be able to drive it in traffic if I had to)

Take care!

Brian

 

For all the hassles, work, frustration to make it all fit and work properly, when the tire smoke clears it might just be best for you to mod what you already have. Personally, I would not bother with all the hassle when you can buy those excellent Vortec GM heads for cheap and build yourself one heck of a street stomper out of your stock 350.

Put Vortec heads on your 350, with an XE268 cam and RPM intake, and you'll have right around 400HP if the engine is in decent shape. The Vortecs are cheap and make a lot of power. Their combustion chamber, runners and valves all come from the B-body Caprice steel LT1 head design (which is actually a better head than the aluminum LT1 design, strange as that may sound).

I've got ported Vortecs on my 413" small block, and it feels like one strong **** of an engine. Can't wait to put some miles on it and get it to the track.

Just my .02

 

The drivetrain will physically fit, but you will have interference on the frame on the right, where the LT1 a/c compressor sits. You can use the bracket from a Corvette, which mounts it all on the driver side.
So far a digital gauges, Dakota makes a set for the 2nd gen, you can get them to work with the sensors on the tranny no problem.
You can either use the factory computer, or aftermarket like Accell DFI to run it, then the sensors are not an issue. But it will all be expensive to get done, even using junkyard parts.

I have an LT1 in my 68, with DFI and Dakota gauges, and I had planned on putting one in my 70. But the more I look at the stuff I have to change, (since I want to keep the a/c, p/s and all), I decided to just build the old style 305 that I already have for the 70. Vortec heads, a 400 crank, and a hyd. roller shold make plenty of power, easy 400 ft/lbs of torque. And the front accessory drive will still work, as well as the radiator and all. It already has a T56 in it..

If you are not sure what all is involved, I would say keep what you got and build it up. You can add the 4L60/700R overdrive, and even an aftermarket FI system, a lot easier than the LT1 conversion.

Just my.02!

 

Alright, you guys sold me. I am going to keep the 350 I already have, but I do have a few questions about modding it.

I know for a fact, as I recently rebuilt it, that it is a 2 bolt main block. The bottom end of the motor is in great shape, when I rebuilt it, it didn't really need rebuilding....but since I was down there anyway, I replaced the bearings and what have you.

As far as the Comp cam and Vortec heads combo goes, will the 2 bolt main be sufficient for holding the power it will make? Will I need to do anything to the pistons, or will the stock bottom end hold together? (I haven't driven the car 10 miles since the rebuild)

The car already has dual exhaust, and I plan to run headers, so the exhaust should be taken care of.

Will I be able to run A/C with this combo? The summers here in Florida are rather brutal, and I have vinyl seats. If I have to, I will upgrade to an aluminum radiator and whatever else it takes.

Anyway, gang, I really appreciate you taking the time to help a newbie like me. I'll post pics or something if I ever manage to get the beast done. Thanks a million!

Brian

 

The 2 bolt will be just fine for a street engine. The combo that Dirt Reynolds recommended is a good combo and is currently the most popular I have seen (IE proven). The only thing I have seen is that the RPM intake for the vortec is a bit tall. I think you could fit a holley in fine but I dont know about a taller carb. Dirt (Dave) will be able to tell you if it fits or not. How has that worked out Dave? I saw the car at Buds and it looked REALLY close to the hood.

As for the A/C one thing you should rob off a LT1 car is the dual cooling fans. They move a lot of air and with a good shroud designed to pull air through ALL of the rad (very important) I dont think you will have trouble with the temp.
CoryM

 

Hey guys,

In my attempt to get to sleep I thought of one more question. I am currently using a Holley 600 cfm carb, is this going to be enough for this motor?

On Edelbrock's website, it recommends using a 750 cfm carb for their RPM intake. Agree or no?

Also, Edelbrock also mentions the Vortec RPM manifold being designed for 1996 and later Vortec producion heads. Are these the same Vortec heads that one buys from GM Performance parts, or should I be scouring junkyards for a truck motor that had them? I just want to make sure the stuff matches before I torture my credit card with all this.

Anyway, thanks again, I do appreicate it. You guys rock!

Brian

 

Okay, since were talking Vortec, were talking my language.



Cory: The clearance is *indeed* VERY close; in fact, I have to run a 2" element instead of the desired 3" unit because of it. Even at that, and with several shims slightly picking up the rear of my flat hood, it still touches that cool GM-logo spin on air cleaner nut.

So - I either have to do one of 2 things:

- Run a cowl induction fiberglass hood. This will allow for a nice big K&N element and lotsa cold air to the carb.

- Keep my stock hood, and run a smaller nut and a washer. Maybe even running a K&N top plate filter to go along with the 2" element to allow for more airflow; something my 412.7" small block definitely needs.

On a side note, I picked up the Z from Bud's on Firday night. Charles was there, and we enjoyed a few brewskis courtesy of Bud. Then I did a few heaters in the parking lot with the line-lock. Wow that engine has some beans!

Okay, back to the subject.

You can pick up a set of Vortecs from any GM dealer, or get them off a '96-'99 5.7 pickup. In my case, I got mine from a local core yard. L31 Vortec heads come in two casting #'s only - 906 or 062. They are both the same, with the exception that the 906 has an Inconel single angle valve seat on the exhausts due to it being run in the heavier 1 ton truck. Word on the street is that this single angle seat loses about 20% of the flow vs. the 062's 3 angle seat up to .120" of valve lift. I say it makes no difference when the tire smoke clears. They are both great heads that flow like Niagra Falls in a spring run off.

Vortecs come with awesome flowing intake ports, short side radius and 3-angle seats that reportedly cannot be improved upon. Out of the box, they have HP potential to something like 478 HP, maxed out. With porting and bigger valves, theres a ton more power left in them. And with their 170cc intake runners, throttle response and top end power can co-exist in one package.

Its really hard to find a better head for such low bucks. GM has created a new era of budget 400+HP 350 engines out there because of this one cylinder head. Amazing stuff.

- You can run AC with the XE268, in my opinion. I do not think it is big enough to cause you idle problems when running AC.

- You can use your 600 carb, I would highly recommend you go with the 750, because your engine with the Vortecs and that cam will definitely need the larger carb to feed all that power.

Any more questions, just ask.

 

The 750 would make better top end power, the 600 would be better for throttle response and gas mileage. Pick your poison! Better yet, get an Accell or Edelbrock EFI system and run that!

I plan on running the GM Hot Cam in my stroker 305 with the Vortec heads and air gap RPM.. might as well get all the benefits of the late model stuff.. hydraulic roller and all! (and I already have the Hot Cam in another motor.. fixing to swap )

 

Go with the cowl

no really u don't understand !!!!

 

i know your convinced not to put a lt1 in but,i put one in my 69 camaro and with just headers dual exhaust and a converter i went 13.11 @102. and it is perfectly drivable and good on gas.its alot of work to change it over but in my opinion well worth it.

 

Here's my setup:

http://home.cfl.rr.com/doriplace

I run 14.05 @ 102mph. I have traction issues (really crappy tires- 2.40 60' time) that will soon be resolved. 102mph trap speed shows enough power to get me solidly into the mid-13s with good traction. Note that this is with a hyd-roller cam with only 208deg intake duration- basically stock idle with no shake. This engine is comfortable at 1500rpm in 6th gear(65mph).

I'd go a little easier on the cam (perhaps Comp's XE262 or 268HE), use the Vortec Heads, or for bit more $$, some good aftermarket street aluminum heads like TFS 23 degrees. That's still enough cam to get you into the 13s. I like Quadrajets for the street- more efficient. I get 18/23 mpg with my setup.

Todd

 

Todd80z, that is a beautiful car
That is exactly what I want to do with my 70..

I do have a quick question.. on the T56 conversion, did you run into any tricks on mounting the clutch slave and master? I plan to run the stock pedal, and redrill a hole to get the leverage correct. I already have a template for a firewall plate/reinforcement.

Thanks for your time, and once again, nice car! Check my homepage for my 70 (start, anyhow!)

 

First off, I would like to say how much I appreciate everyone's help with this.

I have done some looking around, and according to GM's performace parts website, the Vortec heads have a maximum camshaft lift of .475". The XE268H has a lift of .477......is this going to matter, or should I go smaller? Or am I looking in the wrong place? Or am I just an illiterate moron.......don't answer that.

Anyhow, I really do need to crash. You guys take it easy!

Brian

 

Scroggins Dickey does some other Vortec stuff on their own..

try

SDPC Vortec head packages

They also sell the heads alone, without the intake and bolts and gaskets. But the complete package is a deal!

 

Okay - here it is again on the Vortecs.

The STOCK factory Vortec head can only take a .460" lift cam safely with the stock springs.

Vortecs need modifications in the valve guide dept to run more lift, or - and this is what I did - grind down the bottoms of the stock Vortec retainers; take about 3/16" off. This will give you somehwre around .520-.540 lift clearance. But - you can only run a small diameter 1.25" spring with the stock Vortec guide. A head shop can machine the guide for you.

Best solution is what texlurch posted - get the already modified Vortecs ready to go, from Scoggin-Dickey. That would be your best route, and they are priced great.