lots of small block basics ?'s
lots of small block basics ?'s
alright. i am going to rebuild my dads 327 and i have a lot of ?'s about it.
what is the bore/stroke of the 327. i am looking for new pistons and crank.
what rod length does it use?
does it come from the factory with a hydraulic or flat tappet cam? if a flat tappet, can a hydraulic be swapped in with no modifications?
what is the pushrod length?any pushord for 55-up work?
if u dont have a roller cam, can u still get full roller rockers?
i know these are amatuer ?'s but i gotta get this thing rolling. thanks
what is the bore/stroke of the 327. i am looking for new pistons and crank.
what rod length does it use?
does it come from the factory with a hydraulic or flat tappet cam? if a flat tappet, can a hydraulic be swapped in with no modifications?
what is the pushrod length?any pushord for 55-up work?
if u dont have a roller cam, can u still get full roller rockers?
i know these are amatuer ?'s but i gotta get this thing rolling. thanks
Stroke = 3.25"
Rods = 5.7"
Bore = 4.0" std
Depends on the motor for the cam. Some came with hydraulic flat tappet lifters and some came with solid flat tappet. That's what I'm inferring you meant when you said hydraulic and flat tappet.
To my knowledge none came with roller cams but I'm sure a dealer would've done it for the right price.
I think Comp Cams makes a kit to retrofit roller lifters into a standard block.
Yes, you can use full roller rockers without roller lifters. To use roller rockers though, you will have to have the heads machined for screw-in studs and guide plates.
Hope this helps.
Rods = 5.7"
Bore = 4.0" std
Depends on the motor for the cam. Some came with hydraulic flat tappet lifters and some came with solid flat tappet. That's what I'm inferring you meant when you said hydraulic and flat tappet.
To my knowledge none came with roller cams but I'm sure a dealer would've done it for the right price.
I think Comp Cams makes a kit to retrofit roller lifters into a standard block.
Yes, you can use full roller rockers without roller lifters. To use roller rockers though, you will have to have the heads machined for screw-in studs and guide plates.
Hope this helps.
Talk to some local muscle car guys to find a good machine shop. You'll need to find one anyway. Go to the machine shop and ask them for help and tell them what you want to do. From my experience, this is a great way to start learning. That and actually having someone there thats worked on engines and a Chilton's manual.
A 327 is a good engine. I think they're underrated. Have fun on your project.
A 327 is a good engine. I think they're underrated. Have fun on your project.
Last edited by Greed4Speed; Aug 8, 2003 at 11:17 AM.
You said your looking for a new crank as well??
Was it damaged somehow?
Like "Greed4Speed" said, you'll probably need a machine shop to bore the block and do some of your machine work. Likely you would want to have the cylinders bored .030" over, which would make the motor a 331 cu. in. if you kept the original stroke (unless you bought a different crank?
although there's probably no need).
In regards to camshafts, like "nape" said, there are 2 main types: flat-tappet and roller. Then they can either be hydraulic (flat-tappet / roller) or solid (flat-tappet/roller). Hydraulic lifters are considered self adjusting (once they're set, they're set) but solid cams need to be re-adjusted periodically. Unless you're into extreme performance, you can get a very good hydraulic cam that will work just fine
. When it comes to pushrods, I don't know the length of them, but AFAIK, they're pretty much a standard length for any small block Chevy (265 cu. in. --> 400 cu. in.).
Depending on what you want out of the engine will determine what parts to buy. For pistons, flat-tops are probably the best in terms of good compression, without being too high so that you need octane boost. Stock heads can be used, but there are some that are better than others. If your budget allows for it, try getting a nice set of aftermarket aluminum heads. Then when it comes to a camshaft, you can do well with a hydraulic flat-tappet (around .500" lift or higher) but if you've got the money, go with a hydraulic roller and reduce the friction to free up some horsepower
. Same goes with roller rockers................they're a good way to reduce friction and free up some power
.
Good luck with your project!
Was it damaged somehow?
Like "Greed4Speed" said, you'll probably need a machine shop to bore the block and do some of your machine work. Likely you would want to have the cylinders bored .030" over, which would make the motor a 331 cu. in. if you kept the original stroke (unless you bought a different crank?
although there's probably no need).In regards to camshafts, like "nape" said, there are 2 main types: flat-tappet and roller. Then they can either be hydraulic (flat-tappet / roller) or solid (flat-tappet/roller). Hydraulic lifters are considered self adjusting (once they're set, they're set) but solid cams need to be re-adjusted periodically. Unless you're into extreme performance, you can get a very good hydraulic cam that will work just fine
. When it comes to pushrods, I don't know the length of them, but AFAIK, they're pretty much a standard length for any small block Chevy (265 cu. in. --> 400 cu. in.).Depending on what you want out of the engine will determine what parts to buy. For pistons, flat-tops are probably the best in terms of good compression, without being too high so that you need octane boost. Stock heads can be used, but there are some that are better than others. If your budget allows for it, try getting a nice set of aftermarket aluminum heads. Then when it comes to a camshaft, you can do well with a hydraulic flat-tappet (around .500" lift or higher) but if you've got the money, go with a hydraulic roller and reduce the friction to free up some horsepower
. Same goes with roller rockers................they're a good way to reduce friction and free up some power
.Good luck with your project!
If you goto a machine shop ask them if you have the large or small journal block. I have a 327 that came out of a first gen with the larger journals. If you have the larger ones a 350 crank should fit in there just fine.. (3.48 stroke). So you could build yourself a 350. Specially if you need a new crank
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