Rebuilding 76 SB 400: need help.
05-24-2002, 12:08 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 168
Rebuilding 76 SB 400: need help.
Ok, a while back I bought a 76 Chevy SB 400, and it is to go into my 90 Firebird Formula.
I wan't to make it powerfull, eventually...but right now I just want it to run...and I am hoping for 250+hp on the rebuild.
I have everything exept the carb. And someone *said* they would sell me a 730cfm Holley 4bbl.
The problem is I have never rebuilt an engine...or even done any advanced engine work at all.
I assume first I need to:
Clean the block
Hone the cylinders
have heads magnafluxed
have valves ground
I have all of this priced out.
What else will I need to do to prep the block before I put it back togeather?
And for the rebuild kit. Where is a good place to get a decent performance rebuild kit for it? I can't afford forged, but I still want fairly strong parts.
Thanks.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
I wan't to make it powerfull, eventually...but right now I just want it to run...and I am hoping for 250+hp on the rebuild.
I have everything exept the carb. And someone *said* they would sell me a 730cfm Holley 4bbl.
The problem is I have never rebuilt an engine...or even done any advanced engine work at all.
I assume first I need to:
Clean the block
Hone the cylinders
have heads magnafluxed
have valves ground
I have all of this priced out.
What else will I need to do to prep the block before I put it back togeather?
And for the rebuild kit. Where is a good place to get a decent performance rebuild kit for it? I can't afford forged, but I still want fairly strong parts.
Thanks.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
05-24-2002, 02:29 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: San Antonio, Texas USA
Posts: 175
if you want cheap..re-use your stock rods, just have them shot peened and polished, re-use the crank, and buy some keith black hyperuectic pistons. Or look in P.A.W. (Performance Auto Warehouse) in a Chevy Hi-Performance Mag...they have good prices on stock/mild rebuilds. You might consider running 5.7" rods, but for the most part stock 400 rods will work. Buy ARP rod bolts..cheap insurance.
------------------
"Get Blown Or Get Blown Away!"
1968 RS Camaro
383 w/6-71 10#, Dart heads, 4.88 spool, gutted.
Bartonek Drag Racing
------------------
"Get Blown Or Get Blown Away!"
1968 RS Camaro
383 w/6-71 10#, Dart heads, 4.88 spool, gutted.
Bartonek Drag Racing
05-24-2002, 10:33 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 168
Ok, can you order those parts online?
If so what is the website?
A friend told me you could use a 350 crank to make a high revving 377. Is that true, and is it a good setup? I was thinking of doing this later...but not shure.
Right now I have a quadrajet intake(I think), would it be worth buying a holly, or edelbroc performance intake be worth it...or would that be something I could easily put on later?
What are the things I will absolutely need to rebuid the engine.
Assuming everything is in good condition.
As far as my knoledge lets me know I will need piston rings, and all the seals(which is cheap).
And a timing chain(which I do not understand what it does really).
What else?
I have the block, heads, intake, pistons (and con rods), crank, and the flywheel is (I am assuming) the big thing connected to the crank. And last the oil pan, and many of the origional bolts and other things.
Thanks again.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
If so what is the website?
A friend told me you could use a 350 crank to make a high revving 377. Is that true, and is it a good setup? I was thinking of doing this later...but not shure.
Right now I have a quadrajet intake(I think), would it be worth buying a holly, or edelbroc performance intake be worth it...or would that be something I could easily put on later?
What are the things I will absolutely need to rebuid the engine.
Assuming everything is in good condition.
As far as my knoledge lets me know I will need piston rings, and all the seals(which is cheap).
And a timing chain(which I do not understand what it does really).
What else?
I have the block, heads, intake, pistons (and con rods), crank, and the flywheel is (I am assuming) the big thing connected to the crank. And last the oil pan, and many of the origional bolts and other things.
Thanks again.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
05-27-2002, 12:29 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Newark, DE
Posts: 511
Ok bud...it sounds like you know what you want but you don't quite know how to get there.
That's fine, we all need to learn somewhere.
First thing first, take your short block (which is the block, crank, rods, pistons, camshaft, bearings) to a good machine shop and ask them to rebuild it with good new bearings and ARP rod bolts. You can use those Keith black pistons or something comparable. And tell them what compression you want to the engine to run at. Tell them what type heads your using also. The compression should be no more than 10.5:1 for reg pump gas.
The completed short block with new pistons should run around $600. It all depends on the shop.
As far as the heads go....they should be addressed also because they are what actually make the power!
Get the typical 3 angle valve job with slightly oversized valves.
And I think a new aluminium intake would definately be a PLUS.
The 730 cfm carb is too much for a sub 400 HP engine. A nice double pump 600 or 650 would be plenty.
If you need any more info; email me. I can possible get you a nicely worked Qjet for a good price.
good luck
Heavy
------------------
1972 Chevelle SS
2002 setup: Forged 383, Dart Pro1 heads, TCI stall.
Should be DEEP 12's /maybe 11's.
That's fine, we all need to learn somewhere.
First thing first, take your short block (which is the block, crank, rods, pistons, camshaft, bearings) to a good machine shop and ask them to rebuild it with good new bearings and ARP rod bolts. You can use those Keith black pistons or something comparable. And tell them what compression you want to the engine to run at. Tell them what type heads your using also. The compression should be no more than 10.5:1 for reg pump gas.
The completed short block with new pistons should run around $600. It all depends on the shop.
As far as the heads go....they should be addressed also because they are what actually make the power!
Get the typical 3 angle valve job with slightly oversized valves.
And I think a new aluminium intake would definately be a PLUS.
The 730 cfm carb is too much for a sub 400 HP engine. A nice double pump 600 or 650 would be plenty.
If you need any more info; email me. I can possible get you a nicely worked Qjet for a good price.
good luck
Heavy
------------------
1972 Chevelle SS
2002 setup: Forged 383, Dart Pro1 heads, TCI stall.
Should be DEEP 12's /maybe 11's.
05-27-2002, 04:33 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Bryan Tex, USA
Posts: 83
try these guys..
ask for prices about claimer rebuilds
http://herbertperformance.com/
http://www.competitionproducts.com/
You can get much better piston selection with a 5.7 inch rod. But, things get complicated with rod bolt and cam clearancing. 400s really like aftermarket heads. You can pickup 50hp easy.. try to save your pennies for a set.
ask for prices about claimer rebuilds
http://herbertperformance.com/
http://www.competitionproducts.com/
You can get much better piston selection with a 5.7 inch rod. But, things get complicated with rod bolt and cam clearancing. 400s really like aftermarket heads. You can pickup 50hp easy.. try to save your pennies for a set.
05-27-2002, 11:48 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 168
Thanks for the advice guys.
The thing is I was hoping to buy a rebuild kit and do all the non-machine work myself.
Not knowing everything that is involved in a *Complete* rebuild, I am guessing that I will not be entirely rebuilding the engine.
One thing is it DOES need a new cam. The guy I bought it from said it ran when he got it, but the Cam was shot. The engine is completely taken apart allready.
One thing I would like to do is get a slightly more agressive cam. Would this be possible with stock heads (assuming I can get better valve springs for it?)
What all comes with a mild rebuild kit?
The major problem right now is cost. I am trying to get up and running for about $600 total.
BTW what are the bearings?
Right now I am trying to learn about engines, and I know a good bit about how they work, but I havn't yet done any heavy duty engine work. Just fluid, and spark plug changes.
I found somebody who will supposedly help me with all this for a small fee.
Last, will the 730cfm carb give it less power in any way? For this car I really don't care much about gas milage. As long as I can get 15mpg on the highway I'll be happy.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
The thing is I was hoping to buy a rebuild kit and do all the non-machine work myself.
Not knowing everything that is involved in a *Complete* rebuild, I am guessing that I will not be entirely rebuilding the engine.
One thing is it DOES need a new cam. The guy I bought it from said it ran when he got it, but the Cam was shot. The engine is completely taken apart allready.
One thing I would like to do is get a slightly more agressive cam. Would this be possible with stock heads (assuming I can get better valve springs for it?)
What all comes with a mild rebuild kit?
The major problem right now is cost. I am trying to get up and running for about $600 total.
BTW what are the bearings?
Right now I am trying to learn about engines, and I know a good bit about how they work, but I havn't yet done any heavy duty engine work. Just fluid, and spark plug changes.
I found somebody who will supposedly help me with all this for a small fee.
Last, will the 730cfm carb give it less power in any way? For this car I really don't care much about gas milage. As long as I can get 15mpg on the highway I'll be happy.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
05-28-2002, 08:46 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: craplanta ga
Posts: 212
buy every book you can from the parts store on rebuilding a small block chevy..read them 5 times before you pick up a wrench..if you get stuck we are here to help..
Well if its apart it going together for 600 smacks...Have the block checked for cracks Bored over the minimum you can get away with .030" or .040"..Newe freeze plugs cam bearings and oil gallery plugs installed at the machine shop..Id like to really know where heavy chevy gets his work done..Frank bash near the both of us charges over $700 for the above block prep..Call around to machine shops and get some prices..When you call ask for the price of getting a V8 block; baked, fluxed, bored with a torque plate (run away if they say they dont use them) new cam bearings installed and new freeze out plugs and oil gallery plugs installed..Sans the deck squareing thats about the needs of a light perf rebuilds block prep at teh shop..
Then the 400 crank should be cut but be careful here as the machine shop may be more costly than just going to the local parst store..Check to see if they cut cranks in house or farm tehm out to a grinder..Also make sure it comes with matched bearings for the mains and connecting rods..
Then theres the rods..The 400 sbc 5.6whatever rods are ok but like said above there are a lot of cheaper pistons for the common 5.7 rod used in almost every other small block..Again get the price of getting the rods resized..Ive seen 5.7 rods resized with good aftermarket rod bolts for around 200 smacks..Summit sells a good set for a little more than that..Make sure you spend teh extra cash and get the arp rod bolt as they will fail (im talking the factory rod bolts) well before the rod does..
One you have figured out wich is better for your wallet 5.6 or 5.7 rods you are ready to buy some parts for the shortblock..I suggest that you look around and get a Piston kit that should at the minmum include; new pistons(preferablly hyperutectic or forged), Piston rings(cast is ok but the moly coated rings are the best for mild perf rebuilds)..You should already have your main and crank berings from getting your crank cut so buying a complete rebuild kit will waste cash..Buy a complete gasket kit from a reputable manufacture such as felpro or ROL..
Like said above save for some heads ebcause the cost of getting a set rebuilt is just few hundred dollars less than a good set of world products sportsmanIIs..If you mest get the engine ready then id look into teh cost of getting them rebuilt and a set of Z28 valve springs installed..Im thinking that you will opt for a small cam below .500" lift like a comp dual energy 268 or 275..Also spend the cash and get a good double roller timing chain..
finally buy every book you can from the parts store on rebuilding a small block chevy..read them 5 times before you pick up a wrench..if you get stuck we are here to help..Just for your 1st attempt dont go trying to make a lot of power and just focus on getting it running solid..Thats the cheapest way to get it done so it will last 15 years if cared for and will be ready for any future mods you toss at it..You will find that the cost of special tools like a ring compressor and torque wrench may set you back more than you think..
If you are a little worried about assembling a complete engine then id get the short block machined and assembled by teh machine shop that you choose..Get the heads rebuilt with a good set of springs and install the heads yourself..It will sasve you a lot of sleep from worry as long as the shop holds to there job and builds it right..after all if all youve done is light maintainance work then youll be in a different world doing a motor job..Good luck and keep us all posted..
------------------
FLUCK A SPELL CHECK<I CAN SPELL REALLY GOOD< IT'S JUST THE TYPEING THAT STINK AT!
http://phillyfabanddesign.tripod.com/parts4sale/
http://phillyfabanddesign.tripod.com/phillyfabricationanddesign/
http://phillyfabanddesign.tripod.com/PhillyFabsLT1RX7/id1.html
88 RX7 GTU, 97 Lt1/700R4,10" 3K stall, 4.30 gears,285CFM heads,12.4-1 compression, custom cam and 2700lbs...Daily driven!
Well if its apart it going together for 600 smacks...Have the block checked for cracks Bored over the minimum you can get away with .030" or .040"..Newe freeze plugs cam bearings and oil gallery plugs installed at the machine shop..Id like to really know where heavy chevy gets his work done..Frank bash near the both of us charges over $700 for the above block prep..Call around to machine shops and get some prices..When you call ask for the price of getting a V8 block; baked, fluxed, bored with a torque plate (run away if they say they dont use them) new cam bearings installed and new freeze out plugs and oil gallery plugs installed..Sans the deck squareing thats about the needs of a light perf rebuilds block prep at teh shop..
Then the 400 crank should be cut but be careful here as the machine shop may be more costly than just going to the local parst store..Check to see if they cut cranks in house or farm tehm out to a grinder..Also make sure it comes with matched bearings for the mains and connecting rods..
Then theres the rods..The 400 sbc 5.6whatever rods are ok but like said above there are a lot of cheaper pistons for the common 5.7 rod used in almost every other small block..Again get the price of getting the rods resized..Ive seen 5.7 rods resized with good aftermarket rod bolts for around 200 smacks..Summit sells a good set for a little more than that..Make sure you spend teh extra cash and get the arp rod bolt as they will fail (im talking the factory rod bolts) well before the rod does..
One you have figured out wich is better for your wallet 5.6 or 5.7 rods you are ready to buy some parts for the shortblock..I suggest that you look around and get a Piston kit that should at the minmum include; new pistons(preferablly hyperutectic or forged), Piston rings(cast is ok but the moly coated rings are the best for mild perf rebuilds)..You should already have your main and crank berings from getting your crank cut so buying a complete rebuild kit will waste cash..Buy a complete gasket kit from a reputable manufacture such as felpro or ROL..
Like said above save for some heads ebcause the cost of getting a set rebuilt is just few hundred dollars less than a good set of world products sportsmanIIs..If you mest get the engine ready then id look into teh cost of getting them rebuilt and a set of Z28 valve springs installed..Im thinking that you will opt for a small cam below .500" lift like a comp dual energy 268 or 275..Also spend the cash and get a good double roller timing chain..
finally buy every book you can from the parts store on rebuilding a small block chevy..read them 5 times before you pick up a wrench..if you get stuck we are here to help..Just for your 1st attempt dont go trying to make a lot of power and just focus on getting it running solid..Thats the cheapest way to get it done so it will last 15 years if cared for and will be ready for any future mods you toss at it..You will find that the cost of special tools like a ring compressor and torque wrench may set you back more than you think..
If you are a little worried about assembling a complete engine then id get the short block machined and assembled by teh machine shop that you choose..Get the heads rebuilt with a good set of springs and install the heads yourself..It will sasve you a lot of sleep from worry as long as the shop holds to there job and builds it right..after all if all youve done is light maintainance work then youll be in a different world doing a motor job..Good luck and keep us all posted..
------------------
FLUCK A SPELL CHECK<I CAN SPELL REALLY GOOD< IT'S JUST THE TYPEING THAT STINK AT!
http://phillyfabanddesign.tripod.com/parts4sale/
http://phillyfabanddesign.tripod.com/phillyfabricationanddesign/
http://phillyfabanddesign.tripod.com/PhillyFabsLT1RX7/id1.html
88 RX7 GTU, 97 Lt1/700R4,10" 3K stall, 4.30 gears,285CFM heads,12.4-1 compression, custom cam and 2700lbs...Daily driven!
05-28-2002, 08:55 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Bryan Tex, USA
Posts: 83
You can make lots of headway with a book like this.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...prnbr=840-26-1
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...prnbr=840-26-1
06-03-2002, 04:15 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 168
Hey thanks, Killer.
If I am back in town next week I think I will email you or something.
I should be back this weekend, so I will probably see ya at the cruize...but I am trying to get a job here in Dayton, so I am spending a lot of time here too.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
If I am back in town next week I think I will email you or something.
I should be back this weekend, so I will probably see ya at the cruize...but I am trying to get a job here in Dayton, so I am spending a lot of time here too.
------------------
1994 Z28, M6.
13.8@101
No mods....yet.
Pics
06-08-2002, 08:46 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Marysville, CA
Posts: 10
I just built my first engine a few months ago. I was in the same boat as you it sounds like. I strongly agree about getting books, they helped out a lot. I read the books and asked lots of questions and now have a strong running 355. The biggest problem I ran into was the egnition system. I had an old points distributor that I couldn't get set right for the life of me. I thought I had done something wrong when building the engine because it ran so crappy. I ended up taking it to a mechanic who told me I just needed a new distributor. Runs great now. Building an engine really wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and it's a pretty good fealing when it fires up for the first time. Good luck & have fun
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