gen 1 motor???
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There are a bunch of variations on the G1 350, everything from lowly 2 barrels with <200hp to 370 hp LT-1's with forged internals. You can build any 350 to >400hp with cam/heads and still be streetable. There are new 383 cranks available at reasonable prices to drop into a 350, which is a good idea if an engine is to be built from scratch. Pistons for this combo available off the shelf.
As for switching for your LT1, it bolts in, but there are issues. Your engine is reverse cool, so radiator hose layout is different. also your engine has one piece seal on the crank, so you have to either get a later G1 350 engine (like off a third gen or C4 vette) that is one piece seal too, or if you go 383 route, order your crank w/one piece seal setup. but you still have to deal with flexplate/flywheel issues.
Going from a worn out high mileage G1 to a low miles LT1 makes sense for someone who wants to bolt in a modern FI engine, but I'm not sure that it would be worth the adaption hassles for you to go backwards.
If you are going to do a G1, might as well go for cubes. I have a 400 in my 71, and w/smog heads that flow like kaka compared to LT1 heads, stock converter and 3.42's have run a best of 13.7 at local 4,100 altitude track. Engine probably only makes 250 at the wheels with the smoggers, but the torque is excellent.
As for switching for your LT1, it bolts in, but there are issues. Your engine is reverse cool, so radiator hose layout is different. also your engine has one piece seal on the crank, so you have to either get a later G1 350 engine (like off a third gen or C4 vette) that is one piece seal too, or if you go 383 route, order your crank w/one piece seal setup. but you still have to deal with flexplate/flywheel issues.
Going from a worn out high mileage G1 to a low miles LT1 makes sense for someone who wants to bolt in a modern FI engine, but I'm not sure that it would be worth the adaption hassles for you to go backwards.
If you are going to do a G1, might as well go for cubes. I have a 400 in my 71, and w/smog heads that flow like kaka compared to LT1 heads, stock converter and 3.42's have run a best of 13.7 at local 4,100 altitude track. Engine probably only makes 250 at the wheels with the smoggers, but the torque is excellent.
Last edited by angel71rs; Jul 6, 2004 at 01:17 PM.
I had a carb'd (Gen-I) 383 in my old '81 Z28, and it kicked a$$!
The heads were plain old "882" casting, 76cc smoggers, but I had a "decent" cam in it (.480"/.480" hydraulic) with headers and a good dual plane intake, and it was a monster on the street
. I know I didn't race every fast car around, but the few that I did race against, I beat 'em
. 383's are very torquey.
HOWEVER, while swapping a Gen-I in place of your current Gen-II LT1 shouldn't be too difficult, you'll lose out on the EFI which is actually a much better "street" oriented platform. And I hope you don't think like I used to, which is "old school is better.....carbs can out-perform EFI" because these new(er) Gen-II and Gen-III SBC's can put up a damn good fight against a heavily cammed Gen-I, yet they still pull over 20 MPG!!!

Just my $.02 here, but if you can afford to build your LT1 as a 383, then go that route, and keep the fuel injection
.
The heads were plain old "882" casting, 76cc smoggers, but I had a "decent" cam in it (.480"/.480" hydraulic) with headers and a good dual plane intake, and it was a monster on the street
. 383's are very torquey.HOWEVER, while swapping a Gen-I in place of your current Gen-II LT1 shouldn't be too difficult, you'll lose out on the EFI which is actually a much better "street" oriented platform. And I hope you don't think like I used to, which is "old school is better.....carbs can out-perform EFI" because these new(er) Gen-II and Gen-III SBC's can put up a damn good fight against a heavily cammed Gen-I, yet they still pull over 20 MPG!!!

Just my $.02 here, but if you can afford to build your LT1 as a 383, then go that route, and keep the fuel injection
.
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