Factory audio system?

All the power to the factory system passes through the Retained Accessory Power (RAP) module. Might have a problem with the module relays shorting. On the other hand, if you turn the stereo off with its switch, rather than relying on opening a door to turn it off via the RAP module, the module couldn’t be the issue.

The RAP module also feeds the power windows and the 15-amp “power accessory fuse”. Do you have any of the aftermarket component fed through that fuse?

Shoebox has the RAP module wiring diagram. 95 should be the same as 94, although the fuse #’s might be different.

http://shbox.com/1/rap_schematic.jpg

The way the relay is wired into the third brake light, it is normal for the relay to click when the brake pedal turns on the brake lights. It's just there to serve as a parallel resistive load in the circuit.

Did you use Shoebox's diagram:

http://shbox.com/1/relay_for_ss_spoiler.jpg


This is the RAP module:

http://shbox.com/1/express_down1.jpg

Yes. Just rests in the pocket against the firewall.

Are you sure you need to replace it? I suggested something that MIGHT be the cause. Have you determined the module is faulty? Do the power windows also work when the radio comes on in the middle of the night? We’re you leaving the radio on, allowing the RAP module to turn it off when a door was opened? Did you turn the radio off before exiting the car to see if that prevented the module from turning on the radio?

The fact it turned off with the door opening would seem to tie it into the RAP module. Shoebox's photo was taken by holding the camera under the dash. It should just lift out of the pocket, without taking anything apart. Hard to reach laying on your back, slide driver's seat all the way back.

Here's a similar problem from search:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...hoebox-153751/

Includes the part #. GM part is expensive.

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/g...-12135089.html

Buy GM 12135089 Module, genuine OEM part

Some sources list it as discontinued.

The F-Body and Corvette starters are different. Most likely because of exhaust interfererence issues. My factory starter was replaced at 30K miles under warranty. The factory replacement showed signs of weakness after the 381ci build at ~60K miles. At first I thought an extended started was due to the added load of the stroker, but the shop showed me their measurement of the torque required to turn the new engine was less than the stock engine.

Turned out the starter was drawing excessive current, reducing voltage to the point it was affecting the injectors. Years of exposure to the heat of headers had taken its toll. I replaced the factory starter with a CVR Pro-Torque starter. Smaller, more torque. The body of the starter could be rotated to move it away from the headers. Solved the problem.... first touch of the key the 74 #/HR injectors would start the engine instantly. I think JEG'S sells the CVR starter under their name. Probably no more expensive than the Corvette starter.

But I don't see how a worn starter would cause excessive current draw with the key in the off position.