Anyone in need of speaker baffles to mount their new door speakers in?
 

I need something to do to occupy my time while I'm on sick leave so.....

I thought I would make some speaker baffles if theres enough need for them. Here's what I'm talking about.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...32_52_full.jpg

I just need to know the size of the thru hole for your particular brand of speaker. Should be anywhere from 5" to 5-5/8". They'll be made from plywood and I'll also provide the 4th screw and the clip that goes with it. The other 3 screws are the stock screws. You'll have to provide the drip guard. I used half of an XTC Foam Baffle to make mine. I just cut it to fit and hot glued it to the baffle. I'd also recommend caulking around the edges with silicone to help couple the baffle to the door once you've installed it.

These are made to fit in a '99 Trans Am. I don't know if the factory baffle in a Camaro is the same as a Firebird or not. Or if all Firebirds are the same for that matter. I've got enough material to make 4 sets or so. Let me know if you're interested.

bump

Very interested! How much?

$18 shipped. That's the baffles with drip guards. $13 shipped without the guards.

[This message has been edited by LS1 RULZ (edited August 06, 2002).]

what exactly does a baffle do?

The baffle is the board that the speakers are mounted to. I originally mounted my speakers to the factory baffles. The only problem was that at high listening levels the cone would actually hit the backs of the door's trim panel. I ended up blowing one of my woofer on account of this. To correct the problem I made my own baffles that lowered the speakers about 1/4" to 3/8" deeper into the door cavity. Problem solved.

I'll take a set! I have a '96 Camaro SS, will they fit? It had the Bose system installed.

The back of the baffles are open, correct? Instead of using a XTC foam baffle, is there a way to enclose the back with fiberglass? I've been trying different speaker brands in my front doors and I can't seem to find the right combination that produces acceptable clean, tight, mid-bass. Some of the brands I tried were Focal Utopia's & Polykevlars and JL Audio XR series components. The Focals had no mid-bass whatsoever - even though the speaker cones were moving like hell. The JL's were better, but I ended up blowing them out. I was wondering if they would sound better if they were in a sealed baffle of some sort. I was going to make my own out of fiberglass.

I ordered a set of CDT components to try. After that, maybe Diamond Audio HEX, Rainbow, or AD. I'm getting frustrated after spending thousands of dollars and it still doesn't sound right. Maybe these baffles will help. Email me with info on how I should pay and where to send them.

The CDT's should do the job. However, if they do not, definately go with the Diamond Hex. I made a 5/8inch MDF baffle that brought the speaker out flush with the door panel. Then, I used the mounting rings and grilles that came with the Hex system and I was able to comepletly seal the front of the cone from the back of the cone. My result was excellent midbass with these. While I was upgrading to a Brahma sub I had to run the system with no sub for about a week. Any intelligent audiophile could tell there was no sub, but I let a fool listen to it and he asked what kind of sub I had in the back.

Anyway, the point is, if you can truly seperate the front of the cone from the back then it will really help the midbass output. Baffles are a good start. Sealing off the rear of the cone can work as well, but i've heard that you will get peaks in the response if you are not careful. If you are going to seal it, you may want to get the T/S parameters for the CDT's midbass driver, then download WinISD Pro and see what the optimal size enclosure would be.

Brian,

I would be glad to make a set for you but I have no way of knowing whether or not they will fit your car or not. Thats something you will have to find out on your own. This is what the stock speaker baffle looks like in my '99 T/A.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...32_45_full.jpg

If you use a set of my baffles you will have to first decide on a set of speakers that you will be using. The speaker mounting hole for a 6-1/2" speaker varies from 5" to almost 5-3/4".

Anyone else?

I took my door panels off and compared them to your pictures - I have the exact same configuration. I will definitely take a set. Just let me know where to send the money. http://web.camaross.com/bb/smile.gif

By the way, I just recieved a set of CDT CL-61 speakers and rear fill two-way's. $200 on Ebay. I bench tested them and I was completly blow away by their sound quality. They are amazing and are everything I was looking for! They have an uncanny way of making the music come alive with smooth clean dynamics, just like my home stereo speakers. The mid-bass is tight, clean, and well defined. They don't reproduce real low bass, but that's what you have a sub for. They blended perfectly with my Infinity perfect 10 sub crossed @ 80. There is a forward, dynamic, full-bodied, and balanced sound to them that everything I've tried so far lacks bigtime. That includes both Focal 165W Utopias and 165K2 Polykevlars, and JL Audio XR series components and coaxials. Plus, I can listen to them all day without listener fatigue.

Since the lowly 'Classic' CL-61 speakers sound so good, I wonder if it's worth getting their Eurosport series for $700.

http://www.cdtaudio.com/eurosport_component.htm

Anyone have any experience with this series?

On a side note - the front channels on my JL Audio 500/5 just blew out taking a set of JL XR650 components with them. One channel is distorted, the other is just 12V DC. Blew the coil right through the speaker.