Roll cage!! I want one!!! Please help a guy out
 

Ok, the car is a 97z28. I did a T-top conversion on the car a few months ago and had subframes installed as well.

I can't get the image out of my mind of my car flexing like crazy. Everytime I hit a bump I just think my car is twisting apart. On top of that, I am going to turn the car into an all purpose race car/show car in a few years, when I need the engine rebuilt amung many other things. I was going to work on the chassie first and the suspension 2nd.

Number 1 on my list is a 6-8 point roll bar/cage. I have searched around a little and only come up with a few choices.

What would be a good cage to buy? or should I look around for a custom guy?

Also, wieght is important to me, so what are the differences between 'chrome-maloy' (spelled it wrong) and steal.

I dont think I am going to ever sell the car, a T-top conversion does not help resale value http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif "You cut the roof off?" So if welding depreciates the value as compared to bolting it in I don't care.

I want decent quality but I am pretty hardcore when it comes to my car. I wouldn't care if it was best money could buy.

Thank you guys soooo much!!!

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1997 Red/w Black top Z28 /A4/3.23's/T-Top converted/ K&N CAI,!TB, Flowmaster exhaust, cutout, BMR STB / SubFrames, Lowered
::All plans on Hold::

[This message has been edited by JetLag (edited July 31, 2002).]

Lots of questions in there, I'll address a couple.

Typical Chromoly tube is 0.083" thick versus mild steel which is 0.134", so whatever that ratio 0.083/0.134 is, is the change in weight. I may be a bit off with those numbers, because there's a difference in what's stamped on the tube and what's called the "wall thickness".

Bar type: What kind of racing you're talking about may define what bar/cage you need. So until you know that, I'd hold off getting one, because you may get the wrong style.

If this is a "price no object" deal, a chromoly custom-build bar/cage will probably be better. There are pre-built bars/cages (SWRacecar, Wolfe, etc) you can get, but again whether they fit your racing requirement or not, I don't know...

Race/Show: Racing a car is going to beat the crap out of it, and showing it typically requires that it actually have nice paint, no dings, shiny wheels, etc, etc. I really think it's a mistake to try to do both with the same car.

Dave

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1997 LPE 383/n2o Camaro Z28 Convertible
12.39@112.2, 1.76 60' (na) 11.27@124.6, 1.76 60' (n2o)
LT1 Diagnostics, New to Nitrous? Northern California Racing Club

Well, It would be an all purpose car.

I would drag race it once and awhile and road race it as well. Also, what I meant by show car is I am going to show how crappy it is going to get.

I just want to make the car an all around beefy vehicle that can do a little bit of everything. I'll paint the thing with primer or something http://web.camaross.com/bb/wink.gif. But not for a few years.

Money is an object, but I don't want to add an extra 80lbs if I don't need to.

You might discourage me from getting one cause it is stock right now.

What if I get a good 4 point roll bar and add on to that later on if I actually deciede to go all the way?



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Brian
Aim - Theonlyaragon
1997 Red/w Black top Z28 / A4/3.23's/ T-Top converted
::basic bolt-ons, currently saving $$$ for future projects::

"Real" race cars will have custom cages, but it gets pricey around $2k+. If your going to strip the interior, most of the pre-fabbed cages will have extra space, which looks funny, and of course is wasting a little bit of space, something not plentiful on these cars.

You can however just order the bars and shave them down yourself, although it will take a fair amount of work manually, but thats the name of the game.

You should have kept the hard top http://web.camaross.com/bb/frown.gif

Well that paint/ scratching thing can easily be cured...If you want to do it right get it powder coated...I mean you cars is red so the color match wouldnt ba a problem and if you wanted to do it black that would be even easier...If you want to real quality custom cage I can recomend a shop that is in Pleasanton, CA...Its called Top Of The Hill Race Cars. My friend worked there, they do full race cars like Vettes, A/C Cobras, etc etc...I can tell you their work is flawless...They just gutted and caged a new Z06 and its badass...You can see how a Wolfe cage from www.thunderracing.com looks like just go and find it in chassis section and click veiw more pics...They have a red car with a red cage for pics...Its a TA but you will get the idea...Good luck
Brad

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97 LT1 6spd TA Silver

98 LS1 6spd TA...Mystic teal
Mods-
Moser 12-bolt 33spline axles, larger wheels studs, Auburn Posi, and 3.73s
Kenny Brown Double Diamonds
Global West Lower Control Arms
Global West Panhard rod
McLeod Twin Disk Cluth w/ Adjustable Master Cylinder
Flowmaster Muffler
Cutout

92 CAMARO Z28 HERITAGE PACKAGE- T56 TRANS, CAM, COMPUTER, FRESH PAINT (RED WITH BLACK STRIPES)FOR SALE!!!

Before you put a cage in you need to get a rule book from the sanctioning body you intend to race with. They will give you the requirements your cage will need to meet. I would avoid powder coating a cage, it will most likely get modified over the years and will be difficult to recoat. I had my first cage custom built for $600, second one I did myself for about $300. Chrome-moly is nice stuff, but you will find the great majority of cages are mild steel due to ita cost and ease of fabrication.

If youare going to road race, scca doesn't allow using smaller tubing size or thickness in the production classes, therefore you cant take advantage of the weight savings. Also once you bend chrome molty you cant rebend and make mild adjustments like on mild steel. If you go with CM after you weld it in, it has to be normalized to relieve the stresses caused by welding.

IF you are putting in a cage, plan on gutting the interior and putting it in after you paint the cage.

IT IS A LOT OF WORK, AND A PAIN IN THE A$$ TO REFIT YOUR DASH IF YOU GO TO A 8 POINT.

IT WILL BE STIFF.

I will send you some pictures of mine.

Mike

That's my car! http://web.camaross.com/bb/smile.gif I'm 100% happy with my Wolfe Race Craft 6 point bolt-in roll cage. It's just fine for the class I'm racing in now, but if I keep moving up, I will need to have it welded in and have additional bars welded in. I weighed it after powdercoating, it weighs 80 lbs.

Kurt


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LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html

Thats a nice job on that cage...I know its already formed but still it looks good. O like the powder coating. Especially with the red harnesses and all. Your car is hella clean too...L8r

Thanks!

I'm a total red freak. Almost every aftermarket part is red. My next addition to the interior will be red racing seats and a red racing steering wheel. I'm probably going to by Sparco seats and steering wheel.

Kurt

Since I haven't seen this mentioned yet, check out this link:

http://web.camaross.com/bb/Forum27/HTML/002653.html

There's a link in there to a group purchase on Wolfe cages and rollbars.

BTW, I hear the cm 6 pt. Wolfe cage is 43 lbs. Compare that to 80 lbs. for mild steel and you can see why some people choose cm.


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Mike Taylor
'94 Formula
Holley cold air, Borla downpipe, Walker UltraFlo catback, BMR STB, BMR PHR, Ground Control coilovers, Bilsteins, 16x9.5 Rikens, Hoosier 275/45/16 A3S03, G2 Torque Arm, Torsen T2R

I don't think anyone will argue the weight advantage of cm over ms. The question is is the 40 pounds worth the additional hassels. The welds and the area around the welds really should be annealed. The welds need to be TIG welded. If you weld anything to it, like brackets. They need to be cm and TIGed on.

The decision is yours.

AZ94FORMULA, Did You do this your self?If so how hard? Looks good

LPEDave would I need this much bar for doing HPDE Training at Thunderhill,or Sears Point/Luguna.Speeds so far arent breeching 110.But there is potential for rolls side impact.I've considered RKs coupe race barw/ crossmember.4 point,bolt in,12 gauge,1-3/4" by .120".
I'm just learning in this car,not going to be a Comp.car,would like to keep the interior in this one,It will remain street Machine.
Will the 4 point be enough?If I need the 6 I will do that.I saw a honda civic roll on turn one at thunderhill Class 3 Aug 3rd.I need to make some dicissions.
Dave thanks for helping me on my first track day,What a relief.
Jetlag sorry to but in,I am dealind w/same thing didnt want to start a new post,and I knew what kind of racing I'm doin.Thanks

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Hella Clean Dark Green Metallic 98 3.8 L60E Coupe:Fast toys Ram Air,Holly filter,Whisper lid,160 Thermo,Man.fan switch,Purple ice wetter,Eibach Pros,Koni adjustables,BMR sways,Prothane bushins,Transgo kit,Magnaflow cat-back.National Auto Sport Ass. member/student.

If you have a convertible you need some type of rollover protection to be allowed on track, if you have a hardtop/T-top then no.