Let me elaborate a little more on my "rods: good" thing.

Yes, it is true you usually have to spend a little more to balance those rods with your assembly but from what a few machinists have told me it isn't because of the forging of the rod, its just the design of the H-beam.

Also...the reason why i say those rods are good is because i have yet to hear from someone who has broken them meaning the rod itself. It is usually something else that happens first and then takes out the rod. This isn't just my personal hearsay either...this is coming from many race shops and machinists in my area to use them. They have all told me the same thing, they see the rod bolt or something else let go before the rod ever does.

i can give quite a few examples of very high horsepower motors ranging from 800-1200 living with these rods.

Now the cranks are a different story, i will agree with anyone that thinks they aren't very good for a high performance application. I have heard numerous stories of them breaking and just recently had a friend who literally snapped the snout off of his eagle 4340 forged crank ON MOTOR and its not like he has a 9 second on motor car either....it wasn't a balancing issue either in case you ask about that.

These are some of my opinions and some of the racers/machinists around by city's opinions.

The cool thing about stuff like this is that everyone has opinions and makes you consider a lot of stuff you usually wouldn't have before hand

 

he wasn't running a fluidampr was he? ya gotta do something to the hub on a fluidampr before you can install it on a scat or eagle crank. the machine shop didn't tell my buddy that when he picked his motor up and now they are replacing his crankshaft for free because that is what he put on his eagle crank.

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84 trans am, forged 383 w/ 6" h-beam rods, ported heads with 3angle valve job, ported weiand stealth intake, edelbrock 750 with choke removed, GMPP solid lift cam, mallory unilite distributor, accel wires and coil, msd 6-al w/8500 rev limiter, hooker long tubes with 2.5" 40 series flowmasters, TH400 with rev. man. valve body and tci 3500 convertor, 9" ford with disc brakes, ladder bars, 4.33 richmond gears. jegster 8-point cage, jegster frame connectors, poly racing buckets with 5-point harneses. vehicle weight reduced

 

yes he was running a fluidampr

BUT

it did have the necessary modifications to it

 

The biggest difference between made in China and Taiwan. 10 year old machinsts in China, 12 years old in Taiwan.

 

OK, I tried to find an online retailer for the Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft. No luck.

Where do I look? Anyone know who sells this crank? I'm always looking to pay less than MSRP.

Also, does anyone know if it is available in 1-piece rear main seal version?

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by 89WS6L98 (edited August 28, 2002).]

 

Yep one piece rear main seal. Nick at Nu-Tek sells them He is in the vendor index: https://www.camaroz28.com/misc/advertisershowcase