Ok, I am using the method from shoebox's site that states the following:
So I adjust everything when at #1 TDC, then turn the crank for #6 TDC. When I am at #6 TDC, are the pushrods for the valves when at #1 TDC supposed to be loose? The are extremely loose, and then when I set the valves for #6 TDC...turned for #1 TDC...the ones from when at #6TDC are extremely loose. Hope that makes sense...im trying to type this on a PDA. Does this sound normal???

 

How much preload are you putting on? Yes, they will be able to move side to side a little, but not off of the valve. What rockers are you using?

 

they are comp 1.6 roller rockers and ls7 lifters. I'll redo it and see if it is any different.

Edit: i did 1/2 to 3/4 like it said on his website. probably more like 1/2 though, but something wasn't right, I can move the rockers up enough to remove pushrods on some of them

 

I wish I had a dollar for every post I've read on all the Forums I visit posted by guys having the similar problems as you are now.

There are a lot of ways to adjust lifter preload (I'm making a dangerous assumption you're working with a hydraulinc cam) and all of them will work, if done correctly.

Problem is, most of the methods are confusing and can easily cause error, especially when the person making the adjustments isn't familar with the technique. For those who grew up on doing it a certain way, it's become second nature, but for others, it's a can of worms.

I'm not about to get into a fight over which technique is better than the others. It's just that over the years, considering all the racing engine lash settings I had to adjust between rounds, I settled on the same method that you'll find in most of the catalogs of the big cam companies - like CompCams, Crane, and even TPIS, etc.

It's also the same one used by the "Big Boys" at the track. It's commonly referred to as the E/O I/C method. Watch the Exhaust pushrod to set the Intake and then watch the Intake to set the Exhaust.

Unfortunately, someone else will have to chime in and help you out using the procedure you're using.

So consider this a bump to try to get you the help you need.

Jake

 

ok, now that im back home...quick example. I am at #1TDC,so the exhaust valve for #8(lifter is up indicating that the valve should be open at that point.) When it is turned for #6TDC, that same lifter is lowered(valve closed) but I can slip the rocker up and the pushrod out. Do I need to make a few revolutions of the crank for it to try and open that valve?(really I think im more paranoid than anything)

 

Ever tried adjusting them while its running.. I like that method. I think its alot easier and quicker..

 

Engine is on a stand right now. I will certainly readjust them when its running, but I just need to get them to where I won't have pushrods flying out when it starts

 

If ya don't have the intake on or if ya do take it off.
Then adj them and watch the lifter cap for movement to get "O" then 1/4-1/2 turn and don't worry until ya crank it up AFTER ya prime it.

 

Are you sure you have the motor at #1 TDC when setting intake valves #1,2,5 & 7 and exhaust valves #1,3,4 & 8???

Sounds to me like you may be at #6 TDC and adjusting the opposite valves.

I also like to use the "Intake closing - check the exhaust valve and exhaust, opening - check the intake valve" method.

 

I could have sworn I was at #1 TDC. I could very well be wrong though. If thats the case then thats an easy check and fix. I'll just pop the cover and check the dots.

 

It is easy if you watch the #1 intake as the pointer is coming around to 12 o'clock. The #1 intake should have opened and just closed before #1 cylinder fires.
If your lifters are not full of oil, you might get some collapse after adjustment as well.

 

so when I have the #8 exhaust lifter all the way up there is no way I can be at #1TDC because that one would have to be down for me to adjust...I have turned that thing so many times I can't remember what I am at now.
Thanks shoebox, i'll look at that tomorrow. I'm sure the lifters have got some oil in them because they were soaking for a couple of weeks.

 

You can continue to try to figure it out, but allow me to just post the method I referred to in a previous post, the E/O I/C method. Hopefully it'll help.

First, let me explain this: The most important part of the adjustment of lifter preload is making absolutely sure the lifter you're working with is on the base circle ( sometimes referred to as the "heel") of the camshaft lobe. That's what's MOST important! The lifter HAS to be on the base circle/heel.

Since there's no easy way to see into the lifter valley with the intake manifold installed you have to watch the pushrods or rockers. What the pushrod/rocker does tells you if it's companion is on the base circle of the lobe or not. So you watch one to adjust it's companion.

That being said, here's the way I find to be the easiest and less prone to error or confusion:

Start with the #1 cylinder (you can actually start with any of them, but starting with #1 eliminates unnecessary confusion).

Turn the engine over and watch the #1 INTAKE pushrod. As you turn over the engine (either with socket/ratchet on the damper bolt or with the starter)that pushrod (the INTAKE) will, at some point, begin to rise.

Continue turning/bumping the engine over until that INTAKE pushrod completely rises (indicating the valve is competely open) then begins to lower (indicating the INTAKE valve is closing).

Just before that pushrod has completely dropped to it's lowest position STOP turning. The point that you actually stop turning over the engine isn't that critical, so anywhere between half-way before it has completely dropped and just before it reaches its lowest point is fine. Shoot for half-way.

At that point you'll KNOW the #1 EXHAUST lifter is on the base circle of its lobe.

Now you set the #1 EXHAUST. Yep, the EXHAUST. You watch the INTAKE to set the EXHAUST; sounds strange but that's exactly how it works. Hence I/C of the technique name.

You then move to the #1 EXHAUST, back off on its adjusting nut/poly lock until the rocker is loose and you are able raise and lower the pushrod with your fingers.

Now, gradually begin tightening the nut/poly lock until the pushrod can no longer be raised or lowered. Just at the point that all the slack/up and down movement of the pushrod has been removed YOU'VE FOUND ZERO PRELOAD.

Now is the time to set the preload. Some like 1/16 turn, others 1/4 turn, still others like 1/2 turn (which is what CompCams and others recommend). GM recommends ONE FULL TURN from zero on many of their stock engines and TPIS is now advocating a minimum of 2 FULL TURNS! Your choice.

I go with CompCams' recommendation since they say you should achieve about .030 of preload. Since measuring .030 is a bit difficult with the intake installed, 1/2 turn is a VERY GOOD approximation.

Once you set the preload on the #1 EXHAUST to where you want it, lock the hex head screw by turing it in a clockwise direction until it's tight. I even put my socket on the poly-lock and give the lock another little tightening turn just to make sure it's tight.

Now it's time to deal with the INTAKE.

Continue turning the engine, but this time watch the EXHAUST pushrod or even the rocker arm. Since you just finished setting the EXHAUST, watching the EXHAUST rocker can be relied on to be accurate.

Turn/bump the engine and AS SOON as the EXHAUST pushrod begins to move UPWARD (indicating the EXHAUST valve is beginning to open) STOP turning/bumping the engine.

You can now set the preload on the INTAKE, in the same manner as you just did. Back off on the INTAKE rocker nut/poly lock until the INTAKE pushrod can be moved up and down. Then begin gradually tightening the nut/poly lock until all slack has JUST been eliminated and the pushrod can't be raised or lowered. THAT'S ZERO PRELOAD/LASH. Now set the lifter preload the number of turns you decided to use.

Now move to the #3 cylinder (which is the next one in line on the driver's side). Once you've done #3 move on to #5, then #7. Now cross over to the other side of the engine and begin with #2, the #4 and so on down the line.

Here's the reasoning behind the E/O I/C technique:

When the EXHAUST rocker just begins to move, the INTAKE lifter is on the base circle/heel of its lobe. When the INTAKE pushrod is anywhere between being half-way down and all the way down, the EXHAUST lifter is on the base circle/heel of its lobe.

That's why it's called E/O I/C INTAKE CLOSING - EXHAUST OPENING. After you've done one or two cylinders you'll come to realize how truly simple this method really is. I just finished building a 388 LT1 for my 96 Vette and guess which lifter preload technique I used. LOL

I really hope this helps because I know how frustrating this can be.

Jake

 

That's assuming the dampner is positioned correctly. Better to find TDC manually by taking a spark plug out and using a McDonalds straw in the spark plug hole if you want to use the adjust/180* method.

 

If the guy just put his engine back together and it is sitting on an engine stand, yes, I would assume that he installed the hub and pulley correctly.

Several valve adjustment methods (including the long one mentioned in the previous post) are on my website. A person can pick and choose which one works best for them.