86z28nos

OK I GOT A 400 WITH FLAT TOP PISTONS CR WILL BE AROUND 10.8 TO 1 6.in RODS MOTOWN HEADS WITH 2.05 VALVES AND 220 INTAKE RUNNERS A COMP CAM 230 244 @.050 AND 487 501 WITH 113 LSA AND A 950 HOLLEY CARB AND A 700 R4 TRAN WITH A TCI 2400 STALL SO WHICH INTAKE SHOULD I USE I HAVE A EDELBROCK PERFORMER AND A EDELBROCK TORKER OLD STYLE AND IAM GOING TO PUT A 2in SPACER ON IT THANKS

markinkc69z

Are you sure you have those parts? The cam doesn't make any sense to me, unless its sombody's idea of a nitrous grind. The heads are big, but the cam duration might not take you to your rpm potential. Anyway, you should do a bit more research. Neither of those intakes really match the cylinder heads/carb/displacement. Heads with 220cc intake runners will want something like a super victor/team g/bowtie/strip dominator single plane. I would consider experimenting with spacers, but just don't plan on it. Plan on hood clearance mods though.

I see your name has "nos" in it. You may be giving up some good torque with that wide lobe sep.

85_305

The Torker is more for high-end pulling I believe, like circle track stuff. Of course.. I have heard of high-winding 400's so maybe high-winding is what you want

86z28nos

yes it a nitrous grind by comp i will be shootting a 200 shot on it

markinkc69z

An aggressive plate system wants a single plane intake. Any one of the intakes I mentioned work well. Another good one is the Brodix HVH intake. The plenum volume is resonable and it has very good response. The water outlet would need to be machined for a thermostat, but its not a big deal for a machinist. For the money though, the super victor is hard to beat and edelbrock really did do some homework on it.

Damon

What Mark said. On that much spray, you want a nice single plane for good distribution. Don't worry about torque- on the bottle you'll have more than you can handle.

I can personally vouch for the Weiand Team G (available in several different intake heights, none of which will clear a stock 3rd gen hood, however). The Holley Strip Dominator looks like a clone of the Team G, although I haven't used it personally.

doug791

god i hope that 400 comment is not based on what i said, but i think it is, so just to clarify. Size of motor matters not, but i made that comment because all i knew was the guy in question was building a 400, so for all i knew it could be a high winding motor. Any motor can pull high rpms you just need the right heads and cam to make it happen.

85_305

^ hehe.. actually it is
But I knew that most motors could be *made* to be high winding, but when I hear the term "400 block", I think of traditional American low-winding, high-torque engines.

AutoRoc

Edelbrock's Vic Jr intake will fit under a stock hood nicely with a 3" air cleaner.

A Super Victor intake will be a bit taller but will make 10-20hp more with more torque.

A Torker is old tech and should be melted for scrap...

A Performer has small ports and won't deliver good HP numbers but of course it will make killer torque.

A Big carb'd nitrous setup will be at home on a Super Victor from Edelbrock. They run like $205 from jeg's or whoever.

Be sure to break in that camshaft very carefully/properly. I lost 2 of them in a row. Lobes just ground right off.

Please turn your CAPS LOCK off and use sentences. Thanks and goodluck!

85_305

^How do you break the cam in?

AutoRoc

Comp Cam's website should have detailed instructions.

Basically, when a new flat tappet hyd. cam like he posted is installed in an engine, it is coated with break in lube that is supplied with it. The engine needs to be immediately brought up to a varying 2000-3000 rpm for 20-30 minutes. Some people even do this for 45mins to an hour. What it does it makes sure the lifters start spinning right away so they polish the cam lobes nicely instead of just wearing them down. I did this reccomended break in for 30 minutes each time and I still ended up with camshaft lobes that ground them selves off of the cam, basically ruining the engine's bearings. My lifter bores were perfect, my springs were set up with Comp Cam's included springs, etc. Bad luck or a bad batch of cams when they were made. Comp's warranty dept. still won't return my calls either. I'd at least like a slight refund or something since both of those cams cost just shy of $200 each, which is pretty expensive for a flat tappet cam!

85_305

Should I do this "cam break-in" before I drive it?

DevilsAddvocate

Id have to agree, heads look good, compression looks good (guessing trying to keep it pump gas friendly) stall speed seems way to low, definetly what a single plan intake or ATLEAST somethin like a performer RPM if ur trying to keep the dual plane set up, also that carb just seems to big to me for the size of ur cam.

Tru2Chevy

The cam break in should be done the first time you start the engine after the cam is installed.

- Justin

85_305

Oh, ok. The cam has been in the engine for a few weeks, but I did put some assembly lube on it before putting it in. I am going to start the engine w/in the next week or so, will that be ok or what?