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Hi everyone any info is good info if you know how to apply it. I have an 89 camaro 305 tbi auto. It has been a 6 year project when I have spear time. The last time it started 2 years ago I started it and drove fine then damn what was that. found out I had 3 bent push rods. Replaced new roller rockers and pushrods. Held off working on car skerd of messing up 0'valve lash. Several times attempting by manual never was right. Finally found a post this gentleman had and worked first time. Went to start car had spark no fuel, then spark and fuel on and off. A few days later trying to fix it my car had no spark and no fuel. Checked everything ( I am not a certified mechanic but know enough to not need one for every thing, motor rebuilds susp. ect. do it my self kinda person for the most part. I had correct fuel pressue, pump primed key on, also fuel to TBI not out injectors. Had no spark at coil. Fuses all good coil good, crank sense ect all good. So no spark to coil with all else good I went str8 to the pick up coil since I had no spark to the coil and no fuel out of injector. Pick up coil failed conitinuity grounded to dizzy(distributor) so when I took dizzy apart got the ICM checked out and was good. failed first time and passed the next 3 times. Put new pick up coil in and spark went all the way to the plugs an injectors sprayed first shot. NOW car turns Fills injector bowls with gas will not start. If I hold pedal down for flood mode it intermittenly sprays tbi will cough and bang fire in tbi bowl. everytime. I cranked it so long spinning dizzy knowing its bad for starter I over heated it cauzing engine to slow cranking till it stopped. Whole time I had car battery hooked up to my good car with jumper cables. Let starter cool an is fine. Pulled the plugs out to air out my cylinders. only 3 out of 8 where wet. Cleaned them with propane torch. When I put dizzy back in I turned motor by hand till pressure at 1 cylinder then aligned mark on dampener to 0' notch. placed dizzy in so that rotor is facing 1 cylinder it seated to the manifold. Also when u look inside the cap the mark 1 is between 2 pins at 7 o'clock if u are standing in front of the engine. I am going to align the rotor to there and try that. SO I belieave either my valve lash adjustment was bad either not closing or opening all the way or I am off with the dizzy. My oil pump may have turned but I doubt it yet cant rule it out. If I try to place the rotor at 7 o'clock then I need to move the oil pump for proper seat. This is how for I got Hope some pro can save the day .I know its alot to read but dont want to leave nothing out so u dont have to ask you already know. thank you I want to put it on the road finally but this is holding me back.

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Also I drained the radiator fluid so there is none in engine. I placed a new coolant temp in the block. Some say comp will make fuel rich at injectors (thinking its cold out this is how it cold starts in the winter with out adjustments) fouling the plugs. Its hot here in ct so I dont think that is the issue but who knows. Also oil level on dip stick is high due to filling up wit gas trying to start it flooding it and gas draining into oil earlier this week. will that be an issue for starting(oil pressure wise)? I know its bad for lubrication but waiting for it to start before I change oil otherwise every time gas leaks into oil through the rings; the new oil and filter will add up money wise. Normally I would replace as needed. I have a 305 partially rebuilt in garage but not complete to put in.

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OK, Got the car to start. The coolant temp sensor will not affect car from starting. Had one in but no anti freeze in the car I drained it all out. However it can affect flooding your cylinder but car can still start. Also a high fluid level in oil pan will not effect oil pressure making it so your car wont start. I figured that but like I said I am not a certified mech. So I dont know everything about everything. Some one mentioned to me about the number 1 inside the cap. I never got around to move the oil pump. I figured it was in the correct position still so I didnt attempt to set it like I mentioned in my first thread so please disregard that. LOL It was bull for my scenario anyways and took my time up thinking about if I should do it or not. I never heard of the mark 1 under the cap having anything to do with anything prior but on the other hand I never noticed or looked into it before. * It was the dizzy. When I felt for compression at number 1 cylinder I felt it and set it there. However I was on the wrong stroke. Tonight I did the same as usual and instead of stopping there I continued to turn engine by hand to see; hey , maybe there will be compression If I go around one more time. Sure as sh*t there was and it was alot more compression then prior. (none ever mentioned this before to me or any thread I ever read online or in the manual.) So that said I aligned the marks there , set the dizzy making sure plugs were correct and locked it all done but leaving the dizzy room to turn if need be. I started the engine but just filled up wit fuel. So I disconnected the injectors and turned her over. Two to three attempts and she would start up to idle for a minute or so then die eating up fuel inside. Hooked connectors back up and figured she needs fine tuning to start like that. So I pressed gas pedal to floor for flood mode and she fired right up easing the gas off so she would idle till I shut her off. Mind you I had no anti freeze so I didnt let her idle long. So I filled it up and tried it a few more times worked every time. If I didnt hold the pedal down then she wouldnt do much. So latter this week I will adjust and time as necessary. I hope this helps anyone. If you got questions on trouble shooting anything dont mind to ask. I already went through it unless it has to do with the computer its self.

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I(intake) E(exhaust) valves cylinder: 2 4 6 8
front of engine closest to nose of car. Passenger side front to back E/I I/E E/I I/E
driver side front to back 1 3 5 7
E/I I/E E/I I/E

1) engine off
2) Identify number 1 cylinder. Check manual for fire orders.
3) Turn engine over until you see number one cylinder exhaust valve rocker arm JUST START to move from closed position to open. You may need to try a few times turning engine to get to this point but do not turn any further.
4) Locate the intake valve.
5) Loosen rocker arm adjustment nut until you feel some obvious lash or clearance in the adjustment.
6) Using thumb and index finger of one hand, grasp the intake push rod below the rocker arm, and rotate it back and forth ( clock-wise and counter clock-wise successively to be sure there is no remaining pressure on the push rod from the rocker arm as you loosen the rocker arm adjusting nut.
7) Using the other hand, while continuously performing step 6,with a 5/8 socket and ratchet, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut slowly until you feel a resistance of motion on the push rod.
Note: This will be zero lash adjustment point. For hydraulic lifters, tighten the rocker arm adjustment nut 3/4 of a turn. For solid lifters, back off the rocker arm adjustment nut until your feeler gauge just fits under the contact point between the valve stem and the rocker arm. Fine tune the adjustment by checking it with a feeler gauge just slightly thicker than the preferred clearance to be sure the clearance is not greater that it should be. If the lager feeler gauge will fit, it needs to be re-adjusted. A lash tolerance of 1-2 thousandths of an inch in the valve adjustment for solid lifters would be acceptable since it may be difficult for someone who is in experienced to be more precise than that.
8) Turn the engine over until the intake opens and then is almost closed.
On the exhaust valve, repeat steps 5 through 8 for the exhaust valve adjustment.
Repeat this procedure for each cylinder. Be sure to do each cylinder sequentially, Either following the firing order, Following the cylinders numerically, or in the case of a V8 doing one side of the engine at a time.

This Procedure works on most V-6 & V-8
*What you will see below is adjustments being made on "opposite" valves on the engine cycle.
example: firing order v-8 : 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2- What you do is separate the order into two sides of the firing order. These are "exact" opposites that put the opposing valve at the correct location for adjustment, meaning the back side (base circle, or heal) of the cam lobe.

Intake valve adjustment: engine off!
>with #1 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #6 Intake Valve
>with #8 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #5 Intake Valve
>with #4 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #7 Intake Valve
>with #3 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #2 Intake Valve
>with #6 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #1 Intake Valve
>with #5 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #8 Intake Valve
>with #7 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #4 Intake Valve
>with #2 cylinder Intake Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #3 Intake Valve

Exhaust Valve Adjustment: ENGINE OFF!!
>with #1 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #6 Exhaust Valve
>with #8 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #5 Exhaust Valve
>with #4 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #7 Exhaust Valve
>with #3 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #2 Exhaust Valve
>with #6 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #1 Exhaust Valve
>with #5 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #8 Exhaust Valve
>with #7 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #4 Exhaust Valve
>with #2 cylinder Exhaust Valve at full valve lift.....Adjust #3 Exhaust Valve