The inside edge of your tire is basically at the same point as my 17x11 50mm wheels = up against the inner fender. Then, the outer edge of your tire is about 1/2" inside the edge of the fender. As far as addressing the inside edge, if you don't move the wheel outward about 1/4", you will have to:
- recenter the chassis over the rear axle assembly.
- cut the projecting edge off the jounce bumper bracket. Doesn't hit anything with the car at normal ride height, but when you jack the chassis the bracket can catch the edge of the wheel rim.
- hammer the inner fenders
I have photos of the jounce bumper bracket and the inner fenders in post #9 in the 4th Gen "Wheels and Tires" sticky:
Wheel & Tire FAQ - General Topics
Using a wheel with a 50mm offset would have been the same as adding a 1/4” spacer. But that's not always an option. You could go with a spacer in the range of 1/4” to 1/2". Using the 1/2” spacer will put the outer edge of the tire right under the fender lip. Look at the picture of my 17x11 wheel in the post mentioned above.
When I first installed the wheels, no interference between the fender lip and the sidewall. But after a few really hard shifts (when it was still a 6-speed) with the sticky BFG 315/35-18 Drag Radials, I saw evidence of the lip contacting the sidewall - nothing serious, just a scuff. At that point I rolled the inner edge of the fender lip, and that problem went away. So a 1/2" or 5/16” spacer might be the safest.
Not all that hard to change the studs. They should be pressed out, but if you block the back of the hub you can pound them out. To pull the new studs in, insert through the back of the hub, put a couple flat washers on the stud, and thread a lug nut on backwards (flat side against the washer). Then torque away.
Biggest problem is finding the correct length studs. I have to run a 5/16” spacer in the front, when using my Weld Pro-Star drag wheels. NHRA tech at the track called me on the hex portion of the lug nut not engaging at least 12mm of the stud threads. I found a longer stud at Lingenfelter, that just met my needs, but they have a 1/2” extra length that is unthreaded, I guess to aid in sliding the wheels on, and now I have to use open end lugs when I mount my street wheels. I think GM Performance Parts may sell longer studs similar to the Lingenfelter studs. But you need to calculate the added length based on your spacer. May not be available in exactly that length, but longer studs could be cut, avoiding any excessive heat input that might affect the tensile strength of the stud.