The great misfire mystery
03-13-2004, 10:48 AM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 20
Sweet! This info is way useful. I seem to have misfire problems every so often. Like many of us, I've changed plugs and wires numerous times. One question though, of anyone whose had this problem, did your "Service Engine Soon" light come on? Mine will seem to come on, stay on for a few days and then eventually go off. While the light is on, my car runs kind of crappy. As soon as it goes off, it'll run fine. I can always tell when my light is about to come on because I'll start to feel a light "misfire" tugging while driving. Also, when my car switches from 1st to 2nd gear, it'll jerk. I do know that something as simple as running a different octain than normal or even adding an injector cleaner to a fill up will bring this on. From what I understand, the computer needs to "sync up" with what's going on with the engine and will eventually correct itself. However, if I've done none of these things and this happens, I've always assumed that it was an ignition problem. In your experiences, once this starts, is it constant or does the misfire only seem to happen after the car has been on and warmed up? That's when it seems to happen to me the most. One note about my experience, this is not a constant thing with my car. It only seems to happen every so often. I've almost become immune to my "Service Engine Soon" light.
03-15-2004, 08:19 AM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Posts: 497
Originally posted by MacPHYST
Sweet! This info is way useful. I seem to have misfire problems every so often. Like many of us, I've changed plugs and wires numerous times. One question though, of anyone whose had this problem, did your "Service Engine Soon" light come on? Mine will seem to come on, stay on for a few days and then eventually go off. While the light is on, my car runs kind of crappy. As soon as it goes off, it'll run fine. I can always tell when my light is about to come on because I'll start to feel a light "misfire" tugging while driving. Also, when my car switches from 1st to 2nd gear, it'll jerk. I do know that something as simple as running a different octain than normal or even adding an injector cleaner to a fill up will bring this on. From what I understand, the computer needs to "sync up" with what's going on with the engine and will eventually correct itself. However, if I've done none of these things and this happens, I've always assumed that it was an ignition problem. In your experiences, once this starts, is it constant or does the misfire only seem to happen after the car has been on and warmed up? That's when it seems to happen to me the most. One note about my experience, this is not a constant thing with my car. It only seems to happen every so often. I've almost become immune to my "Service Engine Soon" light.
Sweet! This info is way useful. I seem to have misfire problems every so often. Like many of us, I've changed plugs and wires numerous times. One question though, of anyone whose had this problem, did your "Service Engine Soon" light come on? Mine will seem to come on, stay on for a few days and then eventually go off. While the light is on, my car runs kind of crappy. As soon as it goes off, it'll run fine. I can always tell when my light is about to come on because I'll start to feel a light "misfire" tugging while driving. Also, when my car switches from 1st to 2nd gear, it'll jerk. I do know that something as simple as running a different octain than normal or even adding an injector cleaner to a fill up will bring this on. From what I understand, the computer needs to "sync up" with what's going on with the engine and will eventually correct itself. However, if I've done none of these things and this happens, I've always assumed that it was an ignition problem. In your experiences, once this starts, is it constant or does the misfire only seem to happen after the car has been on and warmed up? That's when it seems to happen to me the most. One note about my experience, this is not a constant thing with my car. It only seems to happen every so often. I've almost become immune to my "Service Engine Soon" light.
Man mine does the exact same thing!!!! Feels like i gotta shift kit when it goes to second lol. My ses light also goes on and off when it feels like it. So I guess engine heat is the main problem, this is one of those posts everybody should read.
04-05-2004, 07:45 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 20
Well, mine is going in the shop tomorrow. Not looking forward to seeing the bill from the Pontiac dealership. However, my wires are under warranty so maybe that'll help a little. I've tallked to the shop forman earlier and spoke of the heat shielding, routing, etc. He mentioned that he'll look into what can be done and that we'll chat about it in the morning when I drop it off. Hope they can fix it right away. Can't go too long without a car. 
04-06-2004, 10:54 AM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 4,738
Well guys... I did my plugs and wires today.
I have a 2000 with tubular manifolds so I assume it was a little easier for me. My car is pretty stock with 38,200 miles on it.
I used
-8.5mm Msd wires (from www.ammperformance.com $50)
-NGK TR-55 Plugs (from www.mascperfomance.com)
-MSD 1000* heat sheating 6' roll (from Summitracing.com Part # MSD3412)
When I pulled looked at my old wires the # 6 wire was actually laying on my exhaust manifold, when I pulled it off, it was burnt in 2 spots, and and the boot crumbled apart, it also looked burned up at the tip of the plug. Also the number 2 wire had rubbed agianst something and worn through the outer coating, and the #4 wire looked burned up at the plug.
I cutt the 6' roll of heat sleeving in 1 foot sections(giving me 1 foot for each wire) I then with a utility knife shaved off the MSD logo off the spark boot, just enough to cut it off not dig into the boot. I then put the heat sleeves on eave wire, zipp tied it at the end and used electrical tape to make it look a little nicer.
I resued the old metal boot shields that were factory on the car, I twisted them over my new plugs with heat sleeves on them.
Then I startd doing the plugs on the car(I uesed a handy tool, its like a socket wrench with but doesn't have a handle, just a circular disc that ratchets. I used the a regular wrench to start the bolt and the new tool to finish) IT was pretty easy. I picked the tool up at advacned auto for $8, its worth it, a regualr wrench woudl have take forever since you coudl probably only turn it one click in most spots. I then installed my newly gapped plugs at .045 to finger tight with the new tool.
then I installed each plug boot, they offered mor then enough protection in my opinion, I ran the passenger side wires straight up and over the motor instead of behind the alternator when they were factory installed.
First impression, car ran alot better and smoother, I plan on taking it to the track and seeing the difference. My stock wires were not doing so well.
In my opinoin if you are going to do plugs and wires, take a little more tiem and do it right...
I have a 2000 with tubular manifolds so I assume it was a little easier for me. My car is pretty stock with 38,200 miles on it.
I used
-8.5mm Msd wires (from www.ammperformance.com $50)
-NGK TR-55 Plugs (from www.mascperfomance.com)
-MSD 1000* heat sheating 6' roll (from Summitracing.com Part # MSD3412)
When I pulled looked at my old wires the # 6 wire was actually laying on my exhaust manifold, when I pulled it off, it was burnt in 2 spots, and and the boot crumbled apart, it also looked burned up at the tip of the plug. Also the number 2 wire had rubbed agianst something and worn through the outer coating, and the #4 wire looked burned up at the plug.
I cutt the 6' roll of heat sleeving in 1 foot sections(giving me 1 foot for each wire) I then with a utility knife shaved off the MSD logo off the spark boot, just enough to cut it off not dig into the boot. I then put the heat sleeves on eave wire, zipp tied it at the end and used electrical tape to make it look a little nicer.
I resued the old metal boot shields that were factory on the car, I twisted them over my new plugs with heat sleeves on them.
Then I startd doing the plugs on the car(I uesed a handy tool, its like a socket wrench with but doesn't have a handle, just a circular disc that ratchets. I used the a regular wrench to start the bolt and the new tool to finish) IT was pretty easy. I picked the tool up at advacned auto for $8, its worth it, a regualr wrench woudl have take forever since you coudl probably only turn it one click in most spots. I then installed my newly gapped plugs at .045 to finger tight with the new tool.
then I installed each plug boot, they offered mor then enough protection in my opinion, I ran the passenger side wires straight up and over the motor instead of behind the alternator when they were factory installed.
First impression, car ran alot better and smoother, I plan on taking it to the track and seeing the difference. My stock wires were not doing so well.
In my opinoin if you are going to do plugs and wires, take a little more tiem and do it right...
08-01-2004, 10:30 AM
#21
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Lake Hopatcong N.J
Posts: 1,045
Re: The great misfire mystery
Mine blew out for the second time within 2000 miles 
Last time it was my #6. Just yesterday It happened when leaving work, let me tell ya it's really fun trying to drive in traffic up a mountain when your cars popping and wont go 
I'm going to Copy this and show it to my mechanic monday, the car never even made it home this time I had to ditch it 1/2 way (was able to roll to my mechanics)
Whats the difference between sheathing? Wire looms? and boot protectors?
thanks gig
Last time it was my #6. Just yesterday It happened when leaving work, let me tell ya it's really fun trying to drive in traffic up a mountain when your cars popping and wont go I'm going to Copy this and show it to my mechanic monday, the car never even made it home this time I had to ditch it 1/2 way (was able to roll to my mechanics)
Whats the difference between sheathing? Wire looms? and boot protectors?
thanks gig
09-29-2004, 12:30 AM
#23
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 26
Re: The great misfire mystery
Regarding the service engine soon light, I was having this problem prior to changing my plugs and wires. I did get cheap wires and the bosch +4 plugs. RUNS MUCH BETTER. The light kept saying misfire cylinder 1. I usually got this to come on by giving the car alot of gas trying to get onto the interstate with a short on ramp. I have not been able to trip the light since I changed the plugs two weeks ago. I was told by three different chevy dealerships three different things. Dirty injectors, carbon build up messing with the EGR valve, and bad wires. Well the bad wires appears to have been the issue.
12-04-2004, 01:50 AM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 156
Re: The great misfire mystery
Shouldn't GM know about this then? My bro took his car to a pontiac dealer about that and i don't think they said anything bout what it could be, they just said that it was misfiring but no SES light was on. Thanks for this sticky, hope it solves his problem. Funny thing is i just made another post about something he bought when he was trying to fix it.
01-14-2005, 11:50 PM
#27
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: louisville, Ky
Posts: 5
Re: The great misfire mystery
I never even knew that they had that problem. *knock on wood* Mine has 150K on it and has never had that problem. It surprises me because my car has had several problems since I got it (it had 80K on it).
03-26-2005, 06:26 PM
#28
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 53
Re: The great misfire mystery
Had the SAME problem as everyone...
'97 Camaro RS 3.8L 3800II engine
started getting the bucking/misfiring, then it got worse, went away, got worse. Took it to the chevy dealer and they replaced the fuel injector, it got better for a couple days then stedily got worse. Changed out the coil packs, was good for a few days, then got worse again. I'm ordering the DEI protect-a-boot packs and installing them w/ borsch platinum 2 plugs and new plug wires...will let you know how things work out!!! Thanks to everyone for finnally fixing this crazy problem!
'97 Camaro RS 3.8L 3800II engine
started getting the bucking/misfiring, then it got worse, went away, got worse. Took it to the chevy dealer and they replaced the fuel injector, it got better for a couple days then stedily got worse. Changed out the coil packs, was good for a few days, then got worse again. I'm ordering the DEI protect-a-boot packs and installing them w/ borsch platinum 2 plugs and new plug wires...will let you know how things work out!!! Thanks to everyone for finnally fixing this crazy problem!
04-02-2005, 12:45 AM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 53
Re: The great misfire mystery
OMG!!!! passenger's side, farthest back plug wire...fell apart IN MY HAND!!! this heat thing is really a pain in my !!!!!!!! ANY way got the new plugs and plug wires in....RUNS LIKE A CHAMP!!!
already have a new fuel injector and just changed the oil!
Waiting for the DEI protect-a-boot covers to come in...WILL def. let you know if this solves the great misfire mystery!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!! ANY way got the new plugs and plug wires in....RUNS LIKE A CHAMP!!!already have a new fuel injector and just changed the oil!
Waiting for the DEI protect-a-boot covers to come in...WILL def. let you know if this solves the great misfire mystery!!!!!!!!
04-08-2005, 01:11 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 1
Re: The great misfire mystery
Be carefull with this!
I purchased a 97 Camaro(v6) with 97,000 on it and it displayed a simmilar problem with #3 misfire code.
At 105,000, I am looking for another motor to replace the one with the #3 piston rod sticking out of the side of the block.
Good luck!
I purchased a 97 Camaro(v6) with 97,000 on it and it displayed a simmilar problem with #3 misfire code.
At 105,000, I am looking for another motor to replace the one with the #3 piston rod sticking out of the side of the block.
Good luck!