97z28k&N

hello,
long story short, my R&P is leaking again after it was replaced 13 months ago

I cannot find any information on this procedure online. I do own a shop manual, but it is not very specific.

I read somewhere that the engine may need to be raised in order to access the R&P bolts under the oil pan. Is this true?

Basically I would like as much information possible about removing and reinstalling the rack and pinion.

Thanks!

sbca96

As I recall the platform was designed with the LT1 in mind and the LS1 was an
afterthought. With an LT1 you should be able to sneak the bolts out, with an
LS1 you have to cut the drivers side bolt and install a new one upside down. I
never pulled a rack from an LT1 car (my 1993 Camaro Z28 is still going with the
original rack at 270k miles under new ownership). I did have to do the '99 SS
when we got it with 135k miles (drop in quality?). I have a mint OEM rack with
67k miles on it from a 1994 Firebird in California.

Tom

97z28k&N

Thank you so much!

sbca96

Just to be sure .. before you disconnect ANYTHING .. try to remove the bolts. I
remember being able to get the passenger side out, for some reason I recall the
sawsall being used on the drivers side bolt.

It was a number of years ago. I got a NAPA replacement for it, lifetime warranty
and that was back in 2008, again it was a 1999 with an LS1 though.

Tom

97z28k&N

Why would it matter if I removed the bolts first or not? I'm definitely doing this job myself and the rack was replaced a year ago so rust is not an issue. I have a dremel too so if I HAD to cut the bolt it won't be an issue.

Injuneer

I think he's suggesting that you try removing the bolts before jacking the engine. The 96 factory manual does not indicate that jacking of the engine is required.
-jack car, support
-remove wheels/tires
-place pan under steering gear and loosen inlet and outlet hoses
-remove outer tie-rod ends from steering knuckles
-remove steering gear coupling shaft
-remove nuts and bolts that hold steering gear
-remove steering gear

To remove steering gear coupling shaft:
-remove clamp from boot over u-joint
-remove boot from shaft
-remove lower bolt on shaft u-joint
-remove shaft from steering gear

97z28k&N

Thanks a ton! The steering coupling shaft was one of the things that I was really unsure of.

My manual for my 97 also says nothing about jacking the engine.

97z28k&N

I received my rack today along with new greaseable outer tie rods. Rack quality actually looks good! We'll see how functional it is later this week...

Should I still get an alignment even if I measure the distance of the tie rods on the old rack?

sbca96

Yes, considering the price of tires .. I would get an alignment. Even if you are
close, it could cause the car to wander and wear uneven.

Yah .. I meant to try and bolts first to make sure they come out without lifting
the engine, this way you can find out right away if you need more equipment.

I hate getting into a job and then finding out I need something and then the
car is down for a week or even a day.

Tom

97z28k&N

Well the bolts on LT1 fbodies definitely come out easy. The hard part was removing the cotter pins from the nut on the tie rods. Took me about an hour to do both.

I'm about halfway done the job. I just need to get the proper wrench sizes (which I am unsure of) for the high/ low pressure lines, remove rack bolts, and disconnect the steering column.

97z28k&N

Got the steering column bolt out today. That was the hardest part so far.

Still trying to figure out what size the power steering lines are, I'm guessing they might be 18mm.

sbca96

Do yourself a huge favor and buy the Craftsman set at Sears. There is NO
substitution for a good quality flare tubing wrench set. The Kragan/Oreillys
set is crap, they will just round of the hex (ask me how I know).

Craftsman 9 pc. Standard and Metric Flare Nut Wrench Set - Tools - Wrenches - All Wrench Sets

Tom

97z28k&N

I wanted to come back to talk a little about finishing up the project:

-New outer tie rods should be added
-BLEED the power steering fluid by turning the wheel lock to lock 20 times with engine off
-Allow about a full day of free time to work
-Have a plentiful assortment of wrenches
-Power steering lines are 18mm i believe
-Where the steering shaft couples, there is an indent on the metal piece that the shaft slides on to that MUST be perfectly lined up in order for the steering bolt to screw in.
-Make sure the steering wheel stays locked in one position from start to finish!!!

Finally, make sure to measure the distance from the old racks tie rods and use those dimensions on the new rack.

an alignment WILL be needed!

Thanks if you contributed