Paul94Z28

I bought a 1LE front sway bar thinking I was gonna cut some weight. When I laid the 1LE bar and the stock Z28 bar side by side, the 1LE is a little bigger (32mm v 30mm), but weight was about the same. I got on a scale and weighed myself, then with one then with the other. Both were about 14 lbs. Is this right?

I thought I might save a few lbs off the front for drag racing. I guess I should put the 1LE on and loosen the body mounts for weight transfer?

Each has their stickers KAB vs KAC w/ part numbers on them.

Any thoughts?

LPEdave

The 1LE and any other front sway bar made for autox or track driving is going to go exactly the opposite of what you'd want for the drag strip. You essentiallly want no sway bar, not more sway bar. So disconnecting one of the end links will elliminate the connection between the wheels, which is good, or removing the bar completely will also drop the weight, which is good too.

I'm actually surprised the two bars weigh the same, I would have guessed the 1LE would be a bit heavier.

Dave

Paul94Z28

Well, the 1LE is hollow. The 30mm stock one is solid.

Z28barnett

The OEM 30mm is hollow also, think about it, you weighed both of them and they were close to the same weight, I.E. both hollow.

The rear OEM bars are solid, 17,19,21mm.

You can buy a hollow 22mm for the rear, Strano sells one.

Not the best for drag racing from what I hear.

Z28

codyss

That and if the 30mm was soilid it would out perform the 1LE.

Paul94Z28

Here is an exerpt from the ad:

Quantity: 1
Part Number: 26032907
Description: Sway Bar - Front
Application(s): 1993-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Firebird
Condition: NEW
Note: Here's a brand new, Genuine GM 32mm front sway bar for 93-02 Camaro and Firebird. This bar was used exclusively on the Pre-2001 SLP prepared SS cars, and on the Camaro 1LE. It was also standard equipment on Firebird WS6. In comparison with the stock 30mm solid bar on Z/28, this bar is lighter and will do wonders at reducing the understeer inherent to the F-Body chassis. GM's list price on this bar is $127.94 so you're saving a whopping $102.95 off list price.


Ok, what I had read (I think it was on here) was it was the diameter of the bar, not the solid or hollow attribute that controls body roll. In fact I have a couple of books that say just that. From the ad above I was expecting a stock solid bar and a hollow 1LE bar - therefore a weight savings.

Obviously, it looks like I spent some money I did not have to. I want my car to be an all around good performer, but not exclusively a track machine - explaining why the bar stays on.

I am not planning on doing anything with the rear bar.

Thanks for the input.

Z28barnett

That looks like an add from "gearhead" company, and they know better, because I told them. If so, they were also selling the wrong front springs as 1LE. The 1LE bar is a good piece for the money, so you didn't get junk.

The 1LE setup in 93 was 32mm front 21mm (solid) in the rear, that was with stock z28 springs. If you don't go to stiffer rear springs you might benifit from the 21mm rear bar.

The hot setup seems to be the 35/22mm (Both hollow) strano setup.

If you are doing alot of drag racing you could always loosen the end links on the bar. That would let the front end lift some more and reome any disadvantage of the 1LE bar. Might not be worth the effort, but it is a thought.

Z28

Sam Strano

Untrue. Both are hollow.

Sam Strano

Also untrue. The inside of a swaybar adds very little to it's stiffness. They are essentially torsion bars, and the outside moves or twists much more than than the inside does. You can see this just be knowing the stiffness formula for a solid bar is the Diameter to the 4th power. A few millimeters adds a lot of stiffness. Going from 30 to 32 is a big change, but 32 to 34 (hypothetically since one doesn't exist for this car) is even more of an increase. Same 2mm added, but because it's added further from the center, it's more effective. The opposite is true too, filling in the middle of the bar adds not much to the stiffness of the bar but weight because it's closest to the middle. 2 bars of the same diameter, and the solid one is stiffer. But not much (and of course depends on the wall thickness used in the bar too).

Sam Strano

Pretty close to right, but the '93 1LE in addtion to the 32/21 bars also used the 360 lb. 1LE front springs, but standard rears. In '94 when they switched to the progressive "1LE" springs, they went back to the standard 19mm rear bar.

A 32/21 combo with standard springs all around it not recommended because you are also lacking the 70 extra pounds or so of front spring compared to that '93 1LE car. Which is how I came originally came up with the idea of using an even larger front bar with a moderate rear. That way we could make up the wheel rate in the bar, which is more effective at restraining body roll than heavier springs, and don't have the ride penalty, or need for firmer shocks if you don't want them (not that it's a bad idea).

Bigger front bars are not a help for drag racing. But then again, technically any front bar is a hinderence too. If you want, disconnect it. As for the rear bars and being larger. That does help if you have good power and grip. Simply because it keeps the car more level and helps apply power more equally to the wheels under a HARD launch. Which is why you see some MASSIVE rear bars for draging only. Not a good idea for a street car, especially one you want to handle well.

Paul94Z28

Yep-

It is a gyrhead item from eBay. The price was not too bad.

Ok, Sam, let me ask it this way, Forget Drag Racing. When I go, I will loosen a link. For street use, why is the 32mm by itself not good? I could go back to stock as I have all the parts, but thought I was making an upgrade.

Should I add the 21mm solid rear if I am not planning on adding springs?

Or just go back to stock?

Paul

Z28barnett

That makes sense, I was going by web sources for the spring rates. Most of them say the 93 had stock springs, but being half right sounds like typical web info.

Thanks

Z28

Sam Strano

I'm not sure where I ever said a 32 was bad.... the car likes more bar than stock, a 32 is better than a 30, but if you are going to do it, go to a 35.... A 32 alone isn't bad, I'm actually saying that if you have a 32 front, that unless something is different with the springs that'd I'd recommend keeping the stock 19mm rear bar on the car. I think you just mis-understood me, no problem.

If you are going to go through the trouble of loosening a link for the strip, just remove it. Loosening it still causes the bar to be effective as the nose rises. If you are under there anyway, go the next 6-10 threads and just take the link off for the strip. Again, anything worth doing is worth doing well....

Sam Strano

My pleasure, and I hear you on the half-right thing. Happens way more than one can imagine.

Paul94Z28

Gotcha Sam-

Thanks for the input. I was thinking I was getting a lighter and better than stock component. Looks like I have to be happy with just better than stock. At $24.99 it is a relatively inexpensive mistake though.

Thanks for your input. I should have done a little more research.

Paul